# Frogs & Toads > Tree Frogs >  Red Eyed Tree Frog has dark spot that bleeds

## Harrison

Hello everybody, im harrison, a new owner of two Red-Eyed Tree Frog's. i got them on friday and they are beautiful. last night (saturday) i stayed up and watched the smaller one climb all around the tank. and i am sure he got a hold of a cricket or two because he looks quite stuffed. any how the other one, the big guy has not moved since i put him in there. i understand that this is normalish and that frogs need some time to adjust to their new home. and each frog is a little different from the next. this morning i was a little worried because both frogs were opening their mouths over and over again. but after some research i figured out that they both were shedding. and the little one did great and climbed around after and went up into his corner where he likes it. however when the big guy was rubbing his skin with his feet i noticed a dark brown/blackish spot on his upper back. i figured it was just dirt so i sprayed him and let it be. well when i got home today it looked to me as the spot might have grown and maybe got darker as well. so i wet a q-tip and tried ever so gently to rub it off. well it didnt rub off like dirt but he did start to bleed out of it. then i noticed a similiar spot on the point by the vent between his back legs. some people say that the black is dead skin? which that makes sense since he was shedding. but he was bleeding from both spots. (very little but still it was blood) i am worried it might be a fungus or infection? i applied some neosporin on the spots with a q-tip. i would say he looks quite a bit skinnier since i got him on friday. anyways what do you think i should do? thank you.

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## Lynn

Hi
Welcome to Frog Forum  :Smile:  

I'm sorry.........this is a wound. 
It is at the very tip of the 'tailbone'.
This could have been caused by pressure against the area too long.
Did the frog get stuck behind something?

You can pull the background out !!!!! IMO - trash it!
They would prefer to sleep on the glass  :Smile: 

How were they shipped to you ?

They are VERY susceptible to infections if there is a break in their skin.
This frog needs a vet, and antibiotics to be applied to that spot.  :Frown:  Sorry

In the meantime....You could get neosporin ( from a pharmacy) WITHOUT pain reliever.
Pain reliever will kill your frog.
Plain neo will help to begin to heal the area until you can speak to a herp vet. 
Apply the neo  - very - gently- with a clean Q-tip, while the frog is sleeping.

http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-prepared.html
( you could email this vet? ) you can pay for medication via a credit card- send the photos

http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...n-juchems.html

You should contact the person you purchased the frog from as well!  

The " opening and closing " of their mouths could be shedding ? but could also be the a result of too high a temp and humidity!
They typically shed right when they wake up for the night... you see them wiping their face. 

This is shedding:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s50VrErCPWs

care sheet: ( see temp and humidity parameters )
Frog Forum - Red-Eyed Leaf Frog/Red Eyed Tree Frog Care - Agalychnis callidryas

Seriously, considering separating the frogs ...establish a separate quarantine ( QT) enclosure for each of them:

http://www.frogforum.net/general-dis...uarantine.html
http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...-supplies.html

********************

They can take days to adjust. Cover three sides of the tank with a dark cloth, keep them in a very quiet area.
They should have complete darkness at night. 

Don' forget their soaking dish: chin deep/ de-chlorinated water ONLY/ clean the dish daily in hop tap water.
( a ceramic plant saucer or  regular saucer  ) or any really shallow flat dish- even a sandwich plate will do

Feed them small crickets for now until you know ( by counting crickets)  or have witness them eating
They do well with _bowl feeding_ ( do a FF search re bowl feeding  ) 
* see care sheet for calcium and vit supplements  :Smile: 

Please keep us posted.
 :Butterfly:

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deranged chipmunk

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## The Frog Keeper

Neosporin that you suggested is more than enough. They don't need to go to the vet. Gosh, if i went to the vet everytime something like this happened to one of my 20 frogs i'd be bankrupt. It really bothers me when people just instantly say OMG VET OMG VET YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE VET! It's BS! I *HAVE* taken a few of mine to vets back when I was new to frogs and I've never found a vet that could get it right and they HAD experience with frogs! Try finding one that does have the experience and even then it probably won't work or is something you could have done yourself at home. Frogs decline so quickly anyway if it's bad it usually is too late for the vet to even do anything anyway and the money you wasted could just be put towards getting a replacement frog. My giant waxy monkey frogs were in way worse condition than this as they are WC and then were shipped via fed ex to me and neosporin is working on their wounds just fine. I would use methylene blue 2% too, walmart sells it (or can order it in for you if they don't thats what they did for me) its an antiseptic u just dip a q tip in it and then dab their wounds with it to clean the wound and then apply a blob on neosporin on top. Keep their enclosure dry, do not mist as dampness will prevent the wound drying up and healing. Obviously offer them a water dish, they like to dip their bums in  rather than soak in it so no water should get on the wounds.

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## Harrison

they were definitely rubbing themselves like that with their feet. i wrote it wrong. when they did that it was saturday around 11pm. afterwards the small one was very active but the big didnt move from his spot. i picked them up and took them home in the deli cups they gave me to take them home. those spots seem to have appeared out of nowhere. i dont think the bangged him self on anything. i looked at the care sheet. my temps are good. however i didnt see anything on the humidity. 

is it possible to have too much humidity?

ive got him quarintined now, and i have applied regular neosporin on all of the areas, there was about four or so that i found. there was some more on his underside between his rear legs. they were not grey. they were red spots, two of them.

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## The Frog Keeper

yes too much humidity is very bad for red eyes they need moderate humidity 40-50% everyone seems to get this wrong and most care sheets say 80-90% which they should really only be exposed to for breeding purposes. They are tree frogs they don't need dart frog levels of humidity.

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## Lynn

Via email ,Dr Frye, makes it very easy to for members to treat what could end up being a systemic infection - as is the case-- in this species of frog specifically.
His advice is free in his emailed responses. 
Keeping SSD on hand ( as the link suggests) will prevent a delay in treatment. 
He will suggest medication(s) to keep on hand 

Yes, they can decline quickly, hence the reason for treating early and with the right medication.

I have had numerous conversation w Dr Frye. I keep every medication he suggests on-hand.
Then, he is and email away! He has answered email for me on a Sunday.

Yes-I treat my own frogs' bumps and bruises, viral and bacterial infections. 
But I still speak to Dr Frye. I am not a vet. A nurse.... BUT not a vet.

It is imperative to treat broken skin early. 
Each person has to develop a comfort level regarding _self medicating_ their own frogs.

I for one-- *DO NOT* --want to read a post next week with the  ( preventable ) sad news that another frog died. 

ALL newly acquired frogs should be in QT for a minimum of at least 60 days.
This is a 'standard of care.'

A red eye tree frog with any broken skin requires the cleanest QT enclosure possible.
Paper towel substrate should be used and changed every other day. ( very wet - use de-chlorinated water only ) 
Soaking dishes need to be changed daily.
Distilled water can be used for misting- the enclosure walls  - NOT the frog.

I'm glad to read this frog is in QT now
Quarantine ? Why not...what could this possible hurt !  ( Links for proper QT set-up are in post #2 )

 :Butterfly:

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## Heather

I agree. Free vet advice from a knowledgable herp vet (Dr.Frye) who has treated many ill frogs, is definitely worth your time. 

He helped me save sick adopted red eyes from a local pet store years ago which are doing great. They had bacterial and fungal infections, were dehydrated and not eating. They would have otherwise died. 

90% humidity is too high, and can lead to respiratory infections. 70-80% is not too high. Most of the best known breeders actually keep theirs at this routine daily humidity level. They only lower and then raise their humidity for the breeding season. Let's remember that red eyes are not local to the states naturally. They come from the rain forest. 

Self-medicating: 
Those who have been educated by a qualified vet or have long-term experience in breeding or care of amphibians know what they need to treat. It is best to otherwise follow vet recommendations on ill frog care. It is also best to provide accurate care sooner than later to avoid decline of the frogs health. 

Quarantining is alway a good idea. It allows you to monitor well and prevent spread of disease.

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## Harrison

I went ahead and sent an email to Dr.Frye just waiting for a response now. I managed to get some silver sulfadiazene creme and applied it to all of his spots along with some more neosporin last night. This morning he's still alive! Hopefully he will stay that way. Just keeping my eye on him. He hasn't moved hardly at all since I got him on Friday and hasn't ate to my knowledge, only sleeps. Hoping his condition improves. Thanks for all the advice everyone i will keep you updated.

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## Heather

Waiting to hear. Will follow along.

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## Harrison

trying to get a hold of baytril right now. my uncle is a dog breeder and often uses it. here are those red spots in case you wanted to know just what they looked like.

 also some pictures i just took of him in his qt tank. it looks like the spots may be getting better? he still looks very ill.


so i remembered i took a picture of him when i first put him in his tank when i got home. i thought it was just dirt and moss from the containers they put him in but i realize that he already had those marks on him. heres the picture:


so he was already infected, it wasn't my tank. which im glad to know seeing as i have the other guy in there now.

by the way here is pictures of him. i wish they were both looking this chubby.


also i am in contact with the people that i got it from, im not sure but it sounds like if he dies they are blaming it on me. we will wait and see for them to email me back.

i like the red eye's but they are proving to be trialsome. i wanted either a bicolor waxy or the red eye. i wish bicolor's were easier to come by. thanks everyone for your fast responses. i hope this little guy pull's through.

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## Harrison

> Neosporin that you suggested is more than enough. They don't need to go to the vet. Gosh, if i went to the vet everytime something like this happened to one of my 20 frogs i'd be bankrupt. It really bothers me when people just instantly say OMG VET OMG VET YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE VET! It's BS! I *HAVE* taken a few of mine to vets back when I was new to frogs and I've never found a vet that could get it right and they HAD experience with frogs! Try finding one that does have the experience and even then it probably won't work or is something you could have done yourself at home. Frogs decline so quickly anyway if it's bad it usually is too late for the vet to even do anything anyway and the money you wasted could just be put towards getting a replacement frog. My giant waxy monkey frogs were in way worse condition than this as they are WC and then were shipped via fed ex to me and neosporin is working on their wounds just fine. I would use methylene blue 2% too, walmart sells it (or can order it in for you if they don't thats what they did for me) its an antiseptic u just dip a q tip in it and then dab their wounds with it to clean the wound and then apply a blob on neosporin on top. Keep their enclosure dry, do not mist as dampness will prevent the wound drying up and healing. Obviously offer them a water dish, they like to dip their bums in  rather than soak in it so no water should get on the wounds.


are you trying to breed the giant waxy's? where did you get yours?

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## The Frog Keeper

> trying to get a hold of baytril right now. my uncle is a dog breeder and often uses it. here are those red spots in case you wanted to know just what they looked like.
> 
>  also some pictures i just took of him in his qt tank. it looks like the spots may be getting better? he still looks very ill.
> 
> 
> so i remembered i took a picture of him when i first put him in his tank when i got home. i thought it was just dirt and moss from the containers they put him in but i realize that he already had those marks on him. heres the picture:
> 
> 
> so he was already infected, it wasn't my tank. which im glad to know seeing as i have the other guy in there now.
> ...



Yes Red eyes are trialsome, believe me I have been there! However I do not recommend bicolors to ANYONE, if you think red eyes are bad they are much much worse! I have experience with lots of tree frogs over 5 years and I just got the bicolors last month and even with the experience that I do have they have had me scratching my head trying to figure them out. They are still settling in now 5 weeks later and wounds are healing very slowly. They won't eat for themselves so I have had to force feed them (i know this is stressful but I do it very quickly by gently slipping a small curved spatula in their mouths then putting in a cricket. Once they feel something in their mouth their natural instinct takes over and they eat it and gulp it down. They won't wake up for days at a time sometimes, are very stressed easily, and i thought red eyes were stressed easily these are even worse! You would think for such a big frog they wouldn't be. They also need a big enclosure, I have them in a 3ft x 1.5ft x 3ft exo terra, the largest one they make and i don't think it's tall enough as the female likes to climb all the way to the top and keeps pushing on the lid. She injured herself on the metal mesh so I had to custom make a new lid made from the nylon flexarium mesh so it is no longer abrasive. I ordered them online but it is always better to get them from a pet store so you can see what condition they are in before purchasing.

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## Harrison

> Via email ,Dr Frye, makes it very easy to for members to treat what could end up being a systemic infection - as is the case-- in this species of frog specifically.
> His advice is free in his emailed responses. 
> Keeping SSD on hand ( as the link suggests) will prevent a delay in treatment. 
> He will suggest medication(s) to keep on hand 
> 
> Yes, they can decline quickly, hence the reason for treating early and with the right medication.
> 
> I have had numerous conversation w Dr Frye. I keep every medication he suggests on-hand.
> Then, he is and email away! He has answered email for me on a Sunday.
> ...



so its kind of discouraging reading all these "help my tree frog is ill!" threads and then reading through them only to find that they didnt survive. is there any success stories. have you ever read or seen a sick retf with a skin condition or anything else and brought him back up to full speed? i mean i'm pulling for the guy, and not just because he set me back fifty, but because i want a healthy frog. and i thnk if i as a pet owner can nurse him back than thats worth more than buying a healthy frog that never would have died anyway. its like i am saving him.

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## Heather

Yes actually... 

Twiggy when I brought him home from the mall to help him


Through the healing process


Twiggy recovered

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## Harrison

> Yes actually... 
> 
> Twiggy when I brought him home from the mall to help him
> 
> 
> Through the healing process
> 
> 
> Twiggy recovered


Yay Twiggy!!! he is fat now. looks good and healthy!... so what was wrong with him. the first red eye i ever got had skin like that and he died a few hours later. i hope i can get some baytril in on time to help Bee Gee.

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## Heather

Bacterial and fungal infections.

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## Heather

And Hector, Serena, and Cassie... Also adopted because they were sick, dehydrated and not eating.

Then



And now...

Cassie


Hector


Serena

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## Heather

> Yay Twiggy!!! he is fat now. looks good and healthy!... so what was wrong with him. the first red eye i ever got had skin like that and he died a few hours later. i hope i can get some baytril in on time to help Bee Gee.


Twigs lived with geckos. He had scratches and abscesses on his back.

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## Heather

And Lucky and Callie who were just thin and Callie had a few spots...




A bit hard to see Callie's spots with the SSD on them. 

And now...

Lucky


Callie

Callie has some scars, but she's still pretty.

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## Heather

With the right treatments I think he may pull through. Dr. Frye is my vet also. He helped me to treat them.

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## Harrison

Okay so the ssd I'm using is 1%. And the frog is still not moving. And hasn't ate since I got him(Friday). How do I get him to eat? Is the ssd strong enough, and should I consider giving him a pedialyte soak?

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## Heather

Do you have a photo?

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## Heather

You can do a plain pedialyte to water mix 1 part pedialyte to 10 parts water. Instead of stressing him. Use a dropper or small spoon and lightly drop some drops onto his back. You can do quite a few. We usually soak for 15 minutes. Drop away from his head. 

Have you seen any movement at all? Is he breathing?

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## The Frog Keeper

Ooh I forgot about Dr. Frye when I was mentioning my experience with vets. Yes I heard very good things about him as he actually knows his stuff and keeps frogs himself I believe. However when it was mentioned to take it to the vets, unless you live near to where Dr. Frye is the best you can do is contact him and buy his frog aid kit. 
Red eyes are very hit and miss when they are sick. I have had ones that didn't eat and got those spots and died. Then I had some that got the spots but then survived with baytril treatment (i think it was at 2.5%) and lower humidity. I had one with bad nose rub that I 'rescued' from an expo, she was clearly an adult female and the only one that I could find there so I took her in hopes of healing her. I used neosporin and it healed a treat no scars or anything. Then when I introduced her to the main enclosure after 3 months quarantine some of the frogs got marks on them and blisters similar to the pictures in this thread. One of them ended up dying but he was 5 years old anyway (I've always been told they don't live much longer than 5 years) the other one was the one with the nose rub. I quarantined her applied neosporin to the blister kept her at lower humidity by keeping her enclosure dry so never misting it and it he healed up pretty quickly. 
Also if you want to do a pedialyte bath it is safer to make one yourself than buying one intended for human consumption as they have other unnecessary ingredients added that may not be good for the frogs. To make it yourself you just need aquarium salt (regular salt is ionized and had other things added to it to stop it from clumping which is harmful to frogs) and sugar. The recipe is 1 tsp aquarium salt, 2 tsp sugar and 500ml of distilled water. Boil some water and add a tiny amount of the boiled water to the sugar and salt to make a syrup then once its all dissolved and is clear not cloudy add that to your 500ml distilled water and stir it up. Soak the frog for 15 minutes in it. It's stressful to them but gives them an energy boost and might get them to start eating. You can try misting him with the mixture but for better results soaking is the way to go. The electrolytes in the solution don't last long so make a new batch everytime you soak the frog to get the full effect. I have had new red eyes not eat for a couple of weeks though so don't worry too much.

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## Lynn

Harrison ….. keep us posted. Hang in there   :Smile:  We have ALL been in this situation to one degree or another, so we really understand and want to help.

I would bowl feed. You could let one or 2 crickets roam PLUS use a bowl. I would put small / fresh crickets in every night. I would calcium dust daily ( FOR NOW-ONLY). This will ensure he will get Ca with that first meal. I use these bowls:


Bowls should be cleaned daily with the hottest tap water possible and dried. As we know it doesn't take much water for a cricket to look really disgusting by the next morning. yuck ! A FF search will find lots of post on this topic----w/ lots' of great ideas.

I feed all my adult tree frogs ( small crickets )  every night --- and move all the uneaten yuckies back to the cricket bin the next day to feed. I keep a separate cricket bin for each of 2 tree frog species. I never feed ( for example )  crickets from these bins to my P terribilis. It's an open invitation for the spread of all the 'issues' we read about trying to prevent. A little obsessive ? - maybe- but it seems to have worked very nicely for me. I have a red eye that was born in 2007-2008 ( ish ).

There is no doubt it - Red Eyes are very needy!  :Frown: 
There really should be more warnings - they are really not for beginners. When this is mixed with the fact that they are very available > then go to a person that might not have planned for the purchase, it often leads to problems. 
Good thing you were prepared.

A word about shipping frogs and dehydration - a little biology. I have a little brain so bare with me. Severe dehydration can lead to accumulation of lactate. This accumulation of lactate causes hypoxia ( def: “is a condition in which the body or a region of the body is deprived of adequate oxygen supply “ ) This can occur in all major organs including the skin. Their skin can breakdown very quickly. ALL frogs have some degree of de-hydration from shipping . Sadly, it is difficult to determine the severity of it. The unflavored pedi solution, or even de-chlorinated tap water is always necessary.

When I know I will be purchasing a new frog from a show, I bring a mini QT set up with me. The frog is transferred to it asap. 

It’s no different for our sweet little ‘poster child' - the Red Eye Tree Frog. Re-hydration needs to take place quickly – it’s as important as the standard QT set-up. This and a nice long period in a dark and quiet spot will help. The QT set- up helps to facilitate this. 

Their skin is so fragile. )  So handling should happen only when absolutely necessary.  Damp/ disposable gloves should be used ( non-latex- and powder free). Like Heath, I use the dropper method- only when the frog is sleeping. If the frog is sleeping on a leaf ( even better !)  stand there for 15-20 minutes ( a few times a day )  holding the leaf in the shallow bath. 

 Yup , you are now late for work. Tell your boss it was more important to “ soak your frog”  they will be fine with that- I promise !  Then you can join the rest of us crazies  :Big Grin: 

 :Butterfly:

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Heatheranne

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## Harrison

> You can do a plain pedialyte to water mix 1 part pedialyte to 10 parts water. Instead of stressing him. Use a dropper or small spoon and lightly drop some drops onto his back. You can do quite a few. We usually soak for 15 minutes. Drop away from his head. 
> 
> Have you seen any movement at all? Is he breathing?



Only moves when when I pick him up to medicate under side. Other than that he stays perfectly still. He is breathing though. He just stayed in the same spot the whole night and all day yesterday.

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## Harrison

So some are saying soak and some are saying droplets. How should I get the pedialyte to him?

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## Heather

I soak when they are alert enough to get out if the water in their own and droplets when they're too weak to climb out. Use a dropper or a needless syringe for droplets.

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## Lynn

> I soak when they are alert enough to get out if the water in their own and droplets when they're too weak to climb out. Use a dropper or a needless syringe for droplets.


I agree.
Drops several times during the day -- while he is sleeping.
An 8 oz baby bottle works really well- makes for easy mixing. 
It gives them a gentle little squirt when you squeeze it.
Easy to aim and keep it off their face.
It doesn't wake them up. They never know it ever happened  :Smile:  

Lynn

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## Lindsey

Hi Harrison,
Just wanted to give you a bit of encouragement, as I sense you're feeling frustrated...
Keep on with the advice you're given above, and with Dr. Frye at the helm with the right meds I'm hopeful your little guy will pull through.  It takes time and patience.
I bought my first pair of red-eyes the summer of 2012 (from a big chain pet store (to remain un-named  :Wink:  ), one died shortly after.  The survivor was doing well for a month or so, then when I was changing paper towels at the bottom of his tank I accidentally scratched him pretty bad on the eye and side of his body with a vine (sand paper type, don't use those anymore!).  Needless to say, I felt absolutely terrible.
This is clearly not what you're going through, but my purpose in telling you this story is so you get a sense of the healing process red-eyes go through...
With the help of Lynn and Heatheranne, and Dr. Frye via email, my red-eye survived.
It took about 6 weeks of SSD cream, metro drops, and pedialyte drops on his back, and when he didn't eat for several days, once of dropping a cricket in his mouth while he was shedding to keep him going..
It was very frustrating to see very little improvement through those first few weeks, and seeing him get week and appearing as though he wouldn't make it.  But he is still here today (nearly 2 years!).
So keep up with what you're doing, you're doing great.  Like Andaroo said, Red-eyes are hit and miss, but you are doing the very best for him right now...
Good luck

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## Harrison

Thank you Lindsey, and everyone for the encouragement and knowledge. Red marks on his underside are almost gone today, and the marks on top are looking better for sure. Gave him some drops of pedialyte and continue to use ssd cream. I still don't have any baytril. He still looks really thin, his two bones on his back look like they are going to rip through his skin. I have a bowl feed set up as well as some crickets running around. I dusted them all. He did not touch the ones I put in there yesterday and still just sleeps. Tonight after I get back from a meeting I must attend I am going to drop some more pedialyte on him and hopefully it will stimulate him? I have been hearing the other one croak at night and in the morning. And he's eating. i cleaned poop on the glass so yay! now if we can get his buddy in the other room up and running that would be great. anyways thanks very much everyone. i will update as often as i can.

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## Lindsey

> Thank you Lindsey, and everyone for the encouragement and knowledge. Red marks on his underside are almost gone today, and the marks on top are looking better for sure. Gave him some drops of pedialyte and continue to use ssd cream. I still don't have any baytril. He still looks really thin, his two bones on his back look like they are going to rip through his skin. I have a bowl feed set up as well as some crickets running around. I dusted them all. He did not touch the ones I put in there yesterday and still just sleeps. Tonight after I get back from a meeting I must attend I am going to drop some more pedialyte on him and hopefully it will stimulate him? I have been hearing the other one croak at night and in the morning. And he's eating. i cleaned poop on the glass so yay! now if we can get his buddy in the other room up and running that would be great. anyways thanks very much everyone. i will update as often as i can.


Can Dr. Frye send you the baytril?  If I remember correctly it's pretty potent stuff and must be mixed properly.  I personally would only trust Dr. Frye or someone from his staff to mix it for me.
The pedialyte drops will definitely help give him energy and that will in turn help him to hunt and eat!  But if he gets too week, as mine did, you may need to try either force feeding or watching patiently with the lights off at night for him to shed and then discretely dropping a dusted cricket in his mouth when he is eating the shed skin...  Of course I would wait until someone more experienced can walk you through the process of force feeding because it is pretty tricky and is very stressful on the frog.  And we all know stress is not good.
I would avoid handling him unless you have to get some ssd cream on his belly, so no soaks in a tub until he is a bit more perky - if at all.  I only ever dropped the pedialyte solution on my red-eye's back and never attempted soaking as it is very stressful.
Did I read correctly that he was shipped to you and he arrived only on Friday?  If that's so, I would personally give him a little more time and just keep up with what you're doing.
Poop is so exciting!  Was it solid or loose?  And this was the red-eye that appears healthy or the sick one?

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## Harrison

> Can Dr. Frye send you the baytril?  If I remember correctly it's pretty potent stuff and must be mixed properly.  I personally would only trust Dr. Frye or someone from his staff to mix it for me.
> The pedialyte drops will definitely help give him energy and that will in turn help him to hunt and eat!  But if he gets too week, as mine did, you may need to try either force feeding or watching patiently with the lights off at night for him to shed and then discretely dropping a dusted cricket in his mouth when he is eating the shed skin...  Of course I would wait until someone more experienced can walk you through the process of force feeding because it is pretty tricky and is very stressful on the frog.  And we all know stress is not good.
> I would avoid handling him unless you have to get some ssd cream on his belly, so no soaks in a tub until he is a bit more perky - if at all.  I only ever dropped the pedialyte solution on my red-eye's back and never attempted soaking as it is very stressful.
> Did I read correctly that he was shipped to you and he arrived only on Friday?  If that's so, I would personally give him a little more time and just keep up with what you're doing.
> Poop is so exciting!  Was it solid or loose?  And this was the red-eye that appears healthy or the sick one?


yeah i only handle him once a day right now just to get the cream on the spots on his belly. i actually purchased him from a large reptile distrbutor that happens to be close to where i live. so he wasn't shipped. they arranged for me to come pick them up. but they were packaged in the deli cups like most reptiles are when they are shipped. and yes that was on friday. it was the healthy looking one that made the poop. if by loose you mean wet than, now. it looked like a dried cricket. same as they look when my geckos poop. how is poop suppose to look for retf's? the sick one has not pooped. yes i am looking into getting some baytril from dr. frye, but wont it take time to ship?

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## Harrison

i know some of you were concerned about my enclosure set up. here is a thread with pictures i made on it:

http://www.frogforum.net/vivarium-te...tml#post222172

i am concerned that the humidity is too high at night. im keeping a 66-74% in there during the day but at night it maxes out.

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## Harrison

Here is the latest picture of him. Thi was taken at 9:20pm eastern time. 5/6/2014

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## Heather

What's the max it goes to?

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## Heather

The spots are looking better. Now you've just got to get him eating. Continue the pedialyte tomorrow. Still offer food. If he doesn't eat soon you might have to gently force feed. The goal is to get him eating on his own though. We don't want to stress him more. 

I work all day tomorrow but I'll try to stop in after work (usually late). 

Keep up the good work!

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## Harrison

> What's the max it goes to?


The hygrometer reads 99% when I wake up at 5 in the morning.

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## Harrison

So guys... I checked on bee gee this morning... And I found a poop! And she had mived down off the glass into a corner with her eyes wide open. I counted two missing crickets. She looked like she had a fuller stomach. I think she's gonna make it! Thanks to all of your help. You guys definitely are to be credited with this. Will post some more pictures later this evening.

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## Lynn

> So guys... I checked on bee gee this morning... And I found a poop! And she had mived down off the glass into a corner with her eyes wide open. I counted two missing crickets. She looked like she had a fuller stomach. I think she's gonna make it! Thanks to all of your help. You guys definitely are to be credited with this. Will post some more pictures later this evening.


That's super! He ( ? ) looks better

Harrison.......... BTW ...  I put a photo of your other red eye up on Facebook  :Smile:

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## Harrison

> That's super! He ( ? ) looks better
> 
> Harrison.......... BTW ...  I put a photo of your other red eye up on Facebook


Oh. On your personal Facebook or te ferns frogs page? Which picture?

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## Harrison

I don't know if it's a boy or girl yet. It's twice the size of the other one but the other one is not full grown. Maybe bee gee's not either. Do you know of a good way other than size/croaking/nupital pads?

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## Lynn

> Oh. On your personal Facebook or the ferns frogs page? Which picture?


FF Facebook page 

The photo of 'sleeping beauty'

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

 :Butterfly:

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## Harrison

> I don't know if it's a boy or girl yet. It's twice the size of the other one but the other one is not full grown. Maybe bee gee's not either. Do you know of a good way other than size/croaking/nupital pads?


http://www.frogforum.net/tree-frogs/...tml#post222388

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## Harrison

Just thought I would give an update on Bee Gee. She's doing well in her quarantine tank. I pit some plants in there. Last night she ate 5 crickets. I had three in a bowl and three walking about. I did not expect her(btw still don't actually know if it's a girl or not, just hoping) to eat like that. Almost can't see the wound on her tailbone and the others have vanished completely. 

How long should I keep her in the tank?

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## Heather

Glad to see her put some weight on  :Smile: . Eating is a sign she's feeling better  :Smile: . Great job! Keep her in the QT tank until the wounds heal up well. Might be about another week or so. 

I'm so glad to see she's feeling better  :Smile: .

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## Harrison

> Glad to see her put some weight on . Eating is a sign she's feeling better . Great job! Keep her in the QT tank until the wounds heal up well. Might be about another week or so. 
> 
> I'm so glad to see she's feeling better .


Yeah, the wounds are completely gone and she is getting F A T!

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## Heather

Wonderful healing. Once healed over, eating and pooping well with no signs of illness, she may go back in. I keep mine behind an extra week or two just to be safe.

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## Carlos

Glad your frog recovered, congrats  :Big Applause:  !

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