# General Topics > General Discussion & News > Care Sheet Proposals >  American Green tree frog (Schneider 1799) and relatives (RE)

## Ryan

*American Green Tree Frog (Schneider 1799) and Relatives
*


Family: Hylidae

Subfamily : Hylinae

Distribution: South-eastern United States

Adult STV length:  5.1-6cm (2.0-2.5)

Lifespan: 3-8 years

Captive difficulty: Novice

Breeding difficulty: intermediate

Activity: Nocturnal

Temperature: Tolerant of wide variety of temperatures in nature 70-85F (22.2-29.5C)

Diet: Insectivorous (crickets, moths, mealworms, waxworms)

*Description and Natural History*
 The green tree frog _Hyla cinerea_ is a small to medium sized tree  frog varying from 2-2.5 (5.1-6 cm) although larger specimens have been  found. These frogs are most recognizable by their lateral cream stripe  from the corners of the mouth to the flanks. Some populations lack the  dorsal stripe entirely easily being confused with the squirrel tree frog. Color can range from bright to dark green,  yellow, and brown depending on the temperature or stress levels. The  backsides of some frogs have yellow or white spots and like may arboreal  frogs, have toe pads. Coloration within the eye of the frog is a  golden to bronze coloration and horizontal pupils are presented  identifying _Hyla cinerea_ as a nocturnal frog.

The distribution of the slender anuran stretches throughout the  south-eastern United States ranging from eastern Texas, Louisiana,  south-eastern tip of Oklahoma and Missouri, Mississippi, Southern  Illinois, western Kentucky and Tennessee, southern Georgia, Abundant  along the eastern coast of South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia,  Maryland and Delaware. They are absent from northern Alabama, absent  from north-western Arkansas. Green tree frogs will commonly inhabit  areas with heavy emergent vegetation near bodies of water from lakes,  streams, ponds and vernal pools. They have been known to rest within the  tree notches of palmetto trees and the sides of cat tails.

Green tree frogs are known to go into a period of dormancy when  temperatures drop below the 50s and take refuge in leaf litter and various soils within  their northernmost range.  From March through September is the time  period in which _Hyla cinerea_ will breed. Hormonal activity is  determined by daylight hours, precipitation, and rises in temperature.   Males begin to call during and prior to rain from low branches or  vegetation. The call sounds similar to a high pitched duck, (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaNX6pJsIT0).  Females choose their mate by the sound of their call and the male tree  frogs will mate with as many females as they possibly can fathering  several egg clutches. Egg mass vary by the size and health of the female  frogs, the average size of an egg clutch is thought to be 400. Tadpoles  will take 5-14 days to develop into tadpoles. After hatching from their  gelatinous egg, tadpoles will retain yolk moving only if necessary.  This will last for the first couple days after emerging. The frog larvae  vary from 4.5-5.5 mm but will grow to be nearly 60 mm before  metamorphosis occurs. Tadpoles are opportunistic and will eat  vegetation, dead fish, and even each other if food is scarce. Tadpoles  will turn to froglets within 5-8 weeks.

*


The Squirrel Tree Frog (Bosc 1800)
*
  The squirrel tree frog (_Hyla squirella_) is very similar to the green tree frog and has many similar traits. _Hyla        squirella_  reaches a maximum snout to vent length of 1.0-1.5 (2.5-3.8 cm).  Squirrel tree frogs lack the stripe that    the green tree frog has,  colors range from green, brown, or even gray. Squirrel tree frogs are  insectivorous eating   very small prey items. Habitat ranges from marsh  wetland areas to pine forests. Breeding occurs from March to  August  within temporary bodies of water. They are an introduced species to the Bahamas 


*The Barking Tree Frog (LeConte 1856)
*
The barking tree frog (Hyla gratiosa) is the largest native tree frog in the United  States. Large females can reach 2.75 STV length but the average is  usually 2.5. Has a large body with noticeably rough skin and large toe  pads.  Barking tree frogs have more spots on their back in a geometrical  pattern, sometimes called a Leopard frog. Color can vary from green,  brown and grey. Inhabits coastal forests and will burrow when  conditions are harsh and will emerge again when conditions become more  preferable. Breeding occurs from March to August in wetlands and vernal  pools.

*Captive care*
American green tree frogs have been in the pet trade for nearly 50 years  and through wild caught imports, the majority are still known to be wild  caught. I urge that captive bred animals are bought over long term  captives. If possible, ask the employee in the herp department where the frog was acquired.

*Housing*
The most common type of enclosure one would choose for their tree frog  is the classic glass aquarium.  They are the most readily available  enclosure and the high aquariums work very well for tree frogs. You  can easily convert an old 10 gallon fish tank into a high terrarium by  flipping the tank on its side and installing a conversion kit (from  Junglebox) for your tank or you can make your own. The outcome would  look like the vivariums you see in Johns thread  (Frog Forum - Building Dart Frog Terrariums / Tropical Terrarium Construction).  An alternative to this would to buy an Exo-terra  or Zoomed glass  terrarium. The design of terrarium is a good alternative because it has  easily accessible open front doors and their ventilation  strip at the  bottom of the tank gives easy airflow for the frogs. The perfect size  for the frogs would be a 12x12x18 This is roughly 11 gallons for a  pair of green tree frogs or squirrel tree frogs and one barking tree frog (of course you can get a larger vivarium if  desired). Displaying these animals in a vivarium with live plants would be the  best approach for the inhabitants. Artificial plants can be used if you  dont want the hassle with live plants, just be sure that the plants you  select dont have any sharp edges. After all, nobody wants to have  their frog impaled!

*Temperature and Humidity*
Within their natural range, green tree frogs tolerate large fluctuations  in temperature but thrive when temperatures are within 70-82F. This can  be provided by having an incandescent light above the enclosure. The heat given  off this light is gentle and should be able to sustain the frogs. And if  not, A 10 gallon heat mat can be placed on the side of the tank. If you  put this on the bottom, you are warming the substrate where the frog  spends the least amount of time. If a low quality heat mat is used, a  plug in thermostat should be used to restrict the heat mat from  overheating. Temperatures can drop 5-10 degrees at night.
Humidity is achieved through the process of evaporation. By providing a  large water bowl or a water section in the vivarium, more humidity will  be given off. Green tree frogs require 60% humidity within the  enclosure. Too little and you risk the frog dehydrating and too much  risks the frog stressing weakening the immune system which will allow  pathogens and bacteria to enter the body.

*Lighting And UVB*
 Although the frog could care less that theres a light above him in his  enclosure, its necessary for day/night cycles. The lighting can consist  of either an incandescent bulb that will not only give light but give a  gentle heat within the terrarium or florescent light fixture across the  top of the enclosure. These can be purchased  at Lowes, Canadian tire, Rona, Home depot and other hardware stores for  around $20. I  find that it would be much more affordable. One must take extreme  caution when using florescent tubes because of their mercury content. If  the bulb starts to corrode, its likely that you should replace it.  There have been many studies on amphibians regarding UVB lighting and  positive feedback has come out from this research. Amazonian Milk frogs (_Trachycephalus  recinifitrix_  ) raised under UV light grew faster and stronger than other frogs. Many  frogs can be raised and bred without UV light and still thrive.  Providing a 2.0 UV bulb would be appropriate for an 18 tall terrarium.  Be sure to replace the bulbs every 6 months because the UV bulbs will  weaken overtime. Although the light will still work, there would be no  UV exposure after 6 months.

*Feeding*
 Small to medium sized crickets should be the staple for these tree  frogs. Crickets should be gut-loaded with oats, vegetables and fruits.  Be careful when using packaged salads because they often contain iceberg  lettuce which has no nutritional value.  After acquiring your crickets,  be sure to gut-load them and feed your frog the day after your cricket  acquisition.
 Other food items can be fed as well. Mealworms are another option  because of their low maintenance care but should be used but in  moderation. Mealworms and superworms have exoskeletons made of chitin  that makes digestion more difficult for the frog.  Waxworms are another  food item that should be used in moderation, they have a soft skin and  are easily digested but are high in fat. They are commonly used to put  weight on underweight frogs. Waxworms will eventually pupate into wax  moths, these can be fed as treats. Although they are fed to mainly  larger frogs, Earthworms can be one of the most nutritious food items  mentioned here. Up to 30 can be easily collected in a backyard on a  rainy night and be kept in a sterilite tub containing shredded paper or  peat moss. be sure to cut pieces small enough for the frogs and collect  from an area free from pesticides and herbicides.There are many others  that can be  used including houseflies, very small silkworms and hornworms,  butterworms, phoenix worms and even pinky mice for large barking tree  frogs. Food items should be dusted with calcium and vitamin D3 to ensure  that the frog is getting the best possible nutrition

*Breeding and Tadpole care*
 Not many people have been known to breed green tree frogs, not because  they are hard to breed but because they are so readily available as wild  caught specimens, Its best whenever attempting to breed frogs is to  acquire captive bred frogs. Frogs produced in captivity will reproduce  easier than the wild caught imports. Sexing the tree frogs is easier  than one would think. Males will have a dark baggy throat after calling  the night before and have black nuptial pads. Females will be much  larger and be swelled with eggs. This shouldn't be confused with bloat  or obesity.

Seasonal changes in temperature are whats necessary to evoke a breeding  response from the frogs. To do this, lower the temperature in the tank  10 degrees and 15 degrees with frogs from northern climates. While the  temperature drops, feeding should be limited and eventually stopped. The  substrate should be allowed to fully dry, but be sure that the frogs  have a source of water. After bout one or two weeks of winter raise  the temperature back up to normal and heavily mist the tank, this will  simulate the spring rains. Be sure to start feeding again heavily. After  a couple days of this, hormone levels will increase and stimulate the frogs for breeding.  Females will be plump with eggs and males will call nightly.


Before conditioning the frogs, a rain chamber should be built. A rain  chamber is simply a terrarium with 2-3 of water and a pump to simulate  rain. This can be created by getting a fish tank or terrarium pump and  attaching a PVC pipe blocked at one end and with small holes drilled  into the pipe. This should be placed in a 10 gallon tank with 3 of  water. Emergent vegetation such as parrots feather and pothos should be  planted in the tank and cork bark or large sable ricks should be  emergent to prevent the frogs from drowning, the plants will give the  female frogs lay areas to anchor eggs.  This is where the frogs will  mate and lay eggs. After 3 days in the rain chamber, you should be able  to see an egg mass or singly-laid eggs and if not, place the frogs back  in their original enclosure and try later. Eggs should be left in the rain chamber and water quality should be  monitored, Tadpoles grow best in tanks that they were born in. After  tadpoles hatch from their eggs, they will appear motionless. This is a defense mechanism that many tadpoles have for the first few days of  their lives while they retain the yolk from their egg.  The water pump  should be off for the first week the tadpoles hatched. Once they become  restless and scavenge for food along the tank bottom, Raise the water  level and a sponge filter should be installed. Tropical fish flakes  should be fed daily, frozen dried brine shrimp and bloodworms can be  added in as food every week. Be sure to do regular water changes every  week. Once tadpoles start to bud their back legs, the water level should  be lowered and branches or driftwood should be provided for the  tadpoles to rest on. Once front legs are visible, move the tadpoles into  a rearing tank with paper towels and a large water dish, the froglets  will choose to stay in the water if they want and will hop around the  tank if they wish. Once you se that the newly metamorphed frogs tails  have vanished, daily feedings of dusted fruit flies will ensure that  they grow fast.

*Species Confusion:
*A wide variety of frogs are known to carry the common name of "green tree frog". The White's or Dumpy tree frog (_Litoria caerulea_)  is referred by the Aussies as the green tree frog. Do not be deceived  by this name, whites tree frogs will be more noticeable by their  impressive size of 3-4 inches. They commonly have a permanent grin on  their face unlike the American greens. Another cannibalistic adversary  of the green tree frog that is also known by the same name is the Cuban  tree frog (_Osteopilus septentrionalis_). Cubans are able to  surpass the whites in size and appetite, although males stay a measly 2  inches, gargantuan females can easily surpass 5 inches! Cubans are known  to be slightly toxic and can stress out and may even kill. Green tree  frogs should not be housed with their larger Cuban or Aussie  counterparts, they will be eaten!

*A Last note on Mixing Species (WARNING! Controversy Ahead)
*Many  hobbyists have given the thought of putting two species of frog in the  same tank to add some variety to their new terrarium, 
this often  ends with disaster. Mixing two different species can be done but  requires a heavy amount of research. Often due to conflicting  
  environments, toxicity, bullying and preditation, most animals should  not be housed together. Only a handful of captive reptiles and 
amphibians  have been known to cohabitate peacefully by one another. Green anoles  and green tree frogs can be housed successfully if
 given enough room  and attention as can grey tree frogs and greens.If you dare to mix two  species together, consider the following. You
 are risking your animal's life possibly and possibly others within the terrarium.

*References and links*

- Frog Forum - Building Dart Frog Terrariums / Tropical Terrarium Construction

- Frog Forum - White's Tree Frog Care - Litoria caerulea

- Barlett R.D (2006) "The 25 Best Reptile and Amphibian Pets" Barron's publishing inc.

- Barlett R.D (1996-2007) "Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs" Barron's publishing inc.

- Edmonds Devin (2007) "Tree Frogs" T.F.H. publishing co., inc.

- Edmonds Devin (2011) "Frogs and Toads" T.F.H. publishing co., inc.

- Edmonds Devin "Got Milk? Amazonian milk frogs that is" _Reptiles_ (June 2013) pg 18-23

- Mattison Chris (1993) "Keping And Breeding Amphibians" Sterling publishing co., inc.

- Mattison Chris (2005) "Encyclopedia of North American Reptiles And Amphibians" The Brown Reference Group plc

- Squirrel Treefrog

- Barking Treefrog

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## irThumper

Hmm, I was just told in another post that Grays and American Greens should never be housed together, but best to err on the side of caution than not!  :Frog Surprise:

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## Brian

Nice work Ryan. 

I'm back on the photos though... the frog with the saggy vocal sac for example looks to be under a creative commons license that requires attribution (original photo is here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/20087733@N00/182220965 along with a link to the licensing). Please do make sure you've obtained permission and provided credit for all images :Smile: .




> Hmm, I was just told in another post that Grays and American Greens should never be housed together, but best to err on the side of caution than not!


This is a pair of species that people have claimed to house together successfully for years. As you say, erring on the side of caution is always advisable, especially for anyone new to keeping frogs.

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## Ryan

Hi Brian, I'm not too sure how to get permission for photos though, I found the page on Flickr about Creative commons 
here https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/ should i just follow these steps and display them in my references?

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## Brian

Hi Ryan,

Yep, just follow those steps. For this one you need to include the name of the photographer and a link to the CC BY license, for example putting:

Clinton & Charles Robertson, CC BY

as a caption below the photo would suffice. A link to the original or the photographer doesn't appear necessary, but it's nice :Smile: .

I believe John will need to do the html formatting of the photos and such, so you might want to contact him. Assuming your caresheet is approved of course (and I don't see why it wouldn't be :Smile: ). Actually, you might want to contact John to make sure he sees this, he's often quite busy.

If you can't find a license permitting use with a photo you want to use on the internet, then you should contact the photographer and get it cleared. Alternatively, you can search for images that already have an appropriate license: CC Search Click on one of the photo sites (like flikr) and search from there. This way you know you are looking at images you can use without the trouble of tracking anyone down.

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## Ryan

I'm on it!  :Smile:  Just wondering, how would I would put captions underneath a photograph?

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