# General Topics > General Discussion & News > Care Sheet Proposals >  American Green Tree Frog (Schneider 1799) and Relatives

## Ryan

*American Green Tree Frog (Schneider 1799) and Relatives
*


Family: Hylidae

Subfamily : Hylinae

Distribution: South-eastern United States

Adult STV length:  5.1-6cm (2.0-2.5)

Lifespan: 3-8 years

Captive difficulty: Novice

Breeding difficulty: intermediate

Activity: Nocturnal

Temperature: Tolerant of wide variety of temperatures in nature 70-85F (22.2-29.5C)

Diet: Insectivorous (crickets, moths, mealworms, waxworms)

*Description and Natural History*
 The green tree frog _Hyla cinerea_ is a small to medium sized tree frog varying from 2-2.5 (5.1-6 cm) although larger specimens have been found. These frogs are most recognizable by their lateral cream stripe from the corners of the mouth to the flanks. Some populations lack the dorsal stripe all together. Colour can range from bright to dark green, yellow, and brown depending on the temperature or stress levels. The backsides of some frogs have yellow or white spots and like may arboreal frogs, have toe pads. Colouration within the eye of the frog is a golden to bronze colouration and horizontal pupils are presented identifying _Hyla cinerea_ as a nocturnal frog.

The distribution of the slender anuran stretches throughout the south-eastern United States ranging from eastern Texas, Louisiana, south-eastern tip of Oklahoma and Missouri, Mississippi, Southern Illinois, western Kentucky and Tennessee, southern Georgia, Abundant along the eastern coast of South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland and Delaware. They are absent from northern Alabama, absent from north-western Arkansas. Green tree frogs will commonly inhabit areas with heavy emergent vegetation near bodies of water from lakes, streams, ponds and vernal pools. They have been known to rest within the tree notches of palmetto trees and the sides of cat tails.

Green tree frogs are known to go into a period of dormancy when temperatures drop below the 50s. leaf litter and various soils within their northernmost range.  From March through September is the time period in which _Hyla cinerea_ will breed. Hormonal activity is determined by daylight hours, precipitation and rises in temperature.  Males begin to call during and prior to rain from low branches or vegetation. The call sounds similar to a high pitched duck, (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaNX6pJsIT0). Females choose their mate by the sound of their call and the male tree frogs will mate with as many females as they possibly can fathering several egg clutches. Egg mass vary by the size and health of the female frogs, the average size of an egg clutch is thought to be 400. Tadpoles will take 5-14 days to develop into tadpoles. After hatching from their gelatinous egg, tadpoles will retain yolk moving only if necessary. This will last for the first couple days after emerging. The frog larvae vary from 4.5-5.5 mm but will grow to be nearly 60 mm before metamorphosis occurs. Tadpoles are opportunistic and will eat vegetation, dead fish, and even each other if food is scarce. Tadpoles will turn to froglets within 5-8 weeks.




*The Squirrel Tree Frog (Bosc 1800)
*
  The squirrel tree frog (_Hyla squirella_) is very similar to the green tree frog and has many similar traits. _Hyla        squirella_ reaches a maximum snout to vent length of 1.0-1.5 (2.5-3.8 cm). Squirrel tree frogs lack the stripe that    the green tree frog has, colours range from green, brown, or even gray. Squirrel tree frogs are insectivorous eating   very small prey items. Habitat ranges from marsh wetland areas to pine forests. Breeding occurs from March to  August within temporary bodies of water. They are an introduced species to the Bahamas.





*The Barking Tree Frog (LeConte 1856)
*
The barking tree frog is the largest native tree frog in the United States. Large females can reach 2.75 STV length but the average is usually 2.5. Has a large body with noticeably rough skin and large toe pads.  Barking tree frogs have more spots on their back in a geometrical pattern, sometimes called a Leopard frog. Colour can vary from green, brown and grey. Inhabits coastal forests and will burrow when conditions are harsh and will emerge again when conditions become more preferable. Breeding occurs from March to August in wetlands and vernal pools.

*Captive care*
American green tree frogs have been in the pet trade for nearly 50 years and through wild caught imports, the majority is still known to be wild caught. I urge that captive bred animals are bought over long term captives.

*Housing*
The most common type of enclosure one would choose for their tree frog is the classic glass aquarium.  They are the most readily available enclosure and the high aquariums work very well for tree frogs. You can easily convert an old 10 gallon fish tank into a high terrarium by flipping the tank on its side and installing a conversion kit (from Junglebox) for your tank or you can make your own. The outcome would look like the vivariums you see in Johns thread  (Frog Forum - Building Dart Frog Terrariums / Tropical Terrarium Construction). An alternative to this would to buy an Exo-terra  or Zoomed glass terrarium. The design of terrarium is a good alternative because it has easily accessible open front doors and their ventilation  strip at the bottom of the tank gives easy airflow for the frogs. The perfect size for the frogs would be a 12x12x18 This is roughly 11 gallons for a pair of green tree frogs (of course you can get a larger vivarium if desired).
Displaying these animals in a vivarium with live plants would be the best approach for the inhabitants. Artificial plants can be used if you dont want the hassle with live plants, just be sure that the plants you select dont have any sharp edges. After all, nobody wants to have their frog impaled!

*Temperature and Humidity*
Within their natural range, green tree frogs tolerate large fluctuations in temperature but thrive when temperatures are within 70-82F. This can be provided by having an LED light above the enclosure. The heat given off this light is gentle and should be able to sustain the frogs. And if not, A 10 gallon heat mat can be placed on the side of the tank. If you put this on the bottom, you are warming the substrate where the frog spends the least amount of time. If a low quality heat mat is used, a plug in thermostat should be used to restrict the heat mat from overheating. Temperatures can drop 5-10 degrees at night.
Humidity is achieved through the process of evaporation. B y providing a large water bowl or a water section in the vivarium, more humidity will be given off. Green tree frogs require 60% humidity within the enclosure. Too little and you risk the frog dehydrating and too much risks the frog stressing weakening the immune system which will allow pathogens and bacteria to enter the body.

*Lighting And UVB*
 Although the frog could care less that theres a light above him in his enclosure, its necessary for day/night cycles. The lighting can consist of an LED strip across the top of the enclosure, these can be purchased at Lowes, Canadian tire, Rona, Home depot and other hardware stores. I fund that it would be much more affordable. 
There have been many studies on amphibians regarding UVB lighting and positive feedback has come out from this research. Amazonian Milk frogs (_Trachycephalus  recinifitrix_ ) raised under UV light grew faster and stronger than other frogs. Many frogs can be raised and bred without UV light and still thrive. Providing a 2.0 UV bulb would be appropriate for an 18 tall terrarium. Be sure to replace the bulbs every 6 months because the UV bulbs will weaken overtime. Although the light will still work, there would be no UV exposure after 6 months.

*Feeding*
 Small to medium sized crickets should be the staple for these tree frogs. Crickets should be gut-loaded with oats, vegetables and fruits. Be careful when using packaged salads because they often contain iceberg lettuce which has no nutritional value.  After acquiring your crickets, be sure to gut-load them and feed your frog the day after your cricket acquisition.
 Other food items can be fed as well. Mealworms are another option because of their low maintenance care but should be used but in moderation. Mealworms and superworms have exoskeletons made of chitin that makes digestion more difficult for the frog.  Waxworms are another food item that should be used in moderation, they have a soft skin and are easily digested but are high in fat. They are commonly used to put weight on underweight frogs. Waxworms will eventually pupate into wax moths, these can be fed as treats. There are many others that can be used including houseflies, very small silkworms and hornworms, butterworms, phoenix worms and even pinky mice for large barking tree frogs.
Food items should be dusted with calcium and vitamin D3 to ensure that the frog is getting the best possible

*Breeding and Tadpole care*
 Not many people have been known to breed green tree frogs, not because they are hard to breed but because they are so readily available as wild caught specimens, Its best whenever attempting to breed frogs is to acquire captive bred frogs. Frogs produced in captivity will reproduce easier than the wild caught imports. Sexing the tree frogs is easier than one would think. Males will have a dark baggy throat after calling the night before and have black nuptial pads. Females will be much larger and be swelled with eggs. This shouldn't be confused with bloat or obesity.

Seasonal changes in temperature are whats necessary to evoke a breeding response from the frogs. To do this, lower the temperature in the tank 10 degrees and 15 degrees with frogs from northern climates. While the temperature drops, feeding should be limited and eventually stopped. The substrate should be allowed to fully dry, but be sure that the frogs have a source of water. After bout one or two weeks of winter raise the temperature back up to normal and heavily mist the tank, this will simulate the spring rains. Be sure to start feeding again heavily. After a couple days of this, hormone levels will increase in the frogs. Females will be plump with eggs and males will call nightly.


Before conditioning the frogs, a rain chamber should be built. A rain chamber is simply a terrarium with 2-3 of water and a pump to simulate rain. This can be created by getting a fish tank or terrarium pump and attaching a PVC pipe blocked at one end and with small holes drilled into the pipe. This should be placed in a 10 gallon tank with 3 of water. Emergent vegetation such as parrots feather and pothos should be planted in the tank and cork bark or large sable ricks should be emergent to prevent the frogs from drowning, the plants will give the female frogs lay areas to anchor eggs.  This is where the frogs will mate and lay eggs. After 3 days in the rain chamber, you should be able to see an egg mass or singly-laid eggs and if not, place the frogs back in their original enclosure and try later.
 Eggs should be left in the rain chamber and water quality should be monitored, Tadpoles grow best in tanks that they were born in. After tadpoles hatch from their eggs, they will appear motionless. This is a defence mechanism that many tadpoles have for the first few days of their lives while they retain the yolk from their egg.  The water pump should be off for the first week the tadpoles hatched. Once they become restless and scavenge for food along the tank bottom, Raise the water level and a sponge filter should be installed. Tropical fish flakes should be fed daily, frozen dried brine shrimp and bloodworms can be added in as food every week. Be sure to do regular water changes every week. Once tadpoles start to bud their back legs, the water level should be lowered and branches or driftwood should be provided for the tadpoles to rest on. Once front legs are visible, move the tadpoles into a rearing tank with paper towels and a large water dish, the froglets will choose to stay in the water if they want and will hop around the tank if they wish. Once you se that the newly metamorphed frogs tails have vanished, daily feedings of dusted fruit flies will ensure that they grow fast.

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## Brian

I did not see this before today. It looks good Ryan! A few suggestions/questions:


A typo (or maybe a pun :Smile: ) "I *fund* that it would be much more affordable."Any links or references to add?Do you have permission to use these photographs?You might want to say something about White's Treefrogs, aka the other common captive frog sometimes called a "Green Treefrog".Have you ever bred them? Or known anyone who has?I only have experience with one of these frogs, but mine readily devours earthworms, which are nutritionally awesome and what I regularly suggest as part of their diet.An incandescent light bulb will also work as a heat source if your room temperatures are on the cold side.

That's all. Nice work :Big Applause:

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## Josh

After any editing is done, this should definitely either become a sticky or in the care sheet section. Very nicely done, I have been looking for something like this for a long, long time, particularly for the breeding portion. Very good job Ryan  :Frog Smile:

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## Ryan

Thanks Brian! I have this on a word document so i'll get the editing done right away. Devin Edmonds had some great photos but didn't want them reproduced or used in any way (I didn't use them) Thank you for the suggestions  :Smile:

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