# Frogs & Toads > Tree Frogs >  Whites Tree Frog stopped eating

## Reptibian

My whites tree frog Slurp has not been eating as of late. A year ago her brother Glurp passed away from red leg, towards the end he stopped eating as well. So of course my first course of action with her was to check for redness. She does not exhibit any redness and she has no obvious differences on her legs or belly. I want to know what I can do to help her?
- the last time she ate was over 2 1/2 weeks ago
- last poop was a week ago and was small and runny
- I gave her 2 honey water baths so far because it helped her poop last time she had trouble pooping (1 month ago)
- I have given her 2 pedialyte baths as well (1 part to 10 parts water)
- when I put a cricket in front of her she simply bats it away or looks away and closes her eyes. (She seems afraid of them almost)
-she is in a 18x18x24 Eco terra
- I clean it every month 
- every time I have to pick her up I make sure to have no traces of soap or skin oils and have a little water left on so not to harm her skin

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## Frogger00

Sounds like you are caring for her well. I have a male with red leg right now, terrible disease isn't it? Is their anything that has changed recently, or anything that might be causing her stress? Is she lethargic? Have you gotten her poop tested for parasites? 


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## elly

Here are some questions that might help people figure out what might be wrong with your frog. I know it's crazy long, but it may help.
QUESTIONS

1----what 'kind' of frog is it ( what species)
2----please include a photo of the frog 
3----Please include a photo of the frog's current enclosure
4----size of enclosure ( W" x D" x H" )
5----# on inhabitants - ( if there is another frog --- is there a size difference ? )
6----has or was the frog kept with a different species or with any other tank mate 
7----is there a new tank mate----was the new tank mate quarantined 
8----what is the typical humidity level
9----what temperature is maintained
10---what is, specifically, being used to maintain the temperature of the enclosure
11---describe the enclosure lighting ( very specifically)
12---describe enclosure maintenance ( water changes, cleaning etc)
13---what kind of water is used
-----for misting
-----for the frog's soaking dish
-----is de-chlorinator used / what brand
14---material(s) used for substrate - be very specific 
15---enclosure set up:
-----if recent - describe how the enclosure was cleaned
-----plants( live or artificial) if artificial plants are used are they plastic or fabric
-----describe wood, bark , and background materials
16---when is the last time the frog ate
17---have you found poop lately
18---how often is the frog fed
19---what size feeder is given
20---what other feeders are used as treats
21---what is the frog's main food source
22---do feeders roam free in the enclosure or is the frog bowl fed
23---vitamins - what brand and how often
24---calcium - what brand and how often 
25---was the frog without calcium for any period of time
26---approximate age of the frog
27---how long have you owned the frog
28---who cared for the frog before you
29---is the frog wild caught or captive bred
30---how often the frog is handled -- are gloves used ( what kind of gloves) 
31---is the enclosure kept in a high or low traffic area
30---has or was the frog properly quarantined (yes or no)
-----for how long
32---has the frog been treated with any medication:
-----for what
-----name of medication
-----for how long
-----what dose 
-----was medication prescribed by a herp vet

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irThumper, LilyPad

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## Reptibian

For awhile the house was kinda warm for her (tank was at 77 degrees she seems to like about 73) but I've got that evened out now. she is not lethargic, as of now she is sitting out in the open on top of her tree branch like nothing is wrong. Sadly last time she pooped was all runny and I chose to throw it out because it stunk. She is active and still strong but I know she will be weak in a few weeks. I'm worried of mbd for her but she will not open her mouth for ANYTHING. 
Ps: I hope your froggy gets better too!

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## Reptibian

I won't let me post pictures. Says image not valid

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## elly

Especially stinky and runny poop suggests parasites, excess protozoa or an infection of some kind.

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irThumper, LilyPad

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## irThumper

73F is too low for a daytime temp for WTFS. Mine are at 73-75F at night and 77-80+F during the day.

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LilyPad

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## Reptibian

I've had her at 73 all her life. Not sure if its too low though. She is always a bright green/blueish color

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## Reptibian

What can i do if she wont poop any more. She doesn't have anything in her system as she keeps her mouth closed.

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## Reptibian

1. Whites tree frog
2. 
3.
4. 18x18x24
5. one
6. With her brother who passed away from red leg
7. none
8. 30% (70% after spray 25% before spray)
9. 73 degrees and 70-72 at night (occasionally higher or lower)
10. Digital temp gauge and an infrared temp gun
11. 50 watt zilla day white light I think for daytime. 60 watt zoo med red infrared night light for night
12. Water change every night or when pooped in I do it sooner. Full cleaning once a month.
13. Well water for everything. No dechlorinator as it is chlorine free. never had problems in 3 years I have had her.
14. Repticarpet as of now because she dislikes eco-earth.
15. Clean with big bowl of water then clean repticarpet. wash off glass. make sure nothing except water ever touches her stuff so not to contaminate it. Plastic hanging plants. 
16. Around 3 weeks ago
17. No, last time was a week ago.
18. Was 3 crickets every other day. sometimes did 1 one day and 2 the next etc.
19. large cricket
20. gave her a pinkie mouse for Christmas
21. Crickets
22. Roam
23. Tetrafauna- reptolife plus- expired so havent used lately. but was once or twice a week.
24. Tetrafauna- reptocal (has D3)- Just about every feeding. My spray on non D3 stuff expired so i have to get regular stuff still.
25. For a month because she hasnt eaten, im afraid that shes going to get MBD
26. 3 years, 7 months and 26 days
27. 3 years, 4 months and 26 days
28. Petco
29. CB (i think because they were tiny when I first get her and her brother)
30. Only when needed, more lately because I am worried about her. No gloves but always wash twice without soap to make sure no skin oils than i keep hands damp so i don't pick up and bacteria on way and never touch any door handles. But i make sure my hands are perfectly clean. #OCD about harming her
31. Low traffic, my sister likes to barge in a turn lights on when its nighttime because she doesn't care about anyone. Other than that it is usually semi quiet, never have music or anything load playing in the room.
32. no, only her brother got some and that was for red leg, it was some shot stuff the vet gave me. It really didnt work that much either.

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## irThumper

Warmer temps help digestion. But as Elly already pointed out, it sounds from how you described the fecal matter that she has some sort of parasite, likely protozoan, going on. Without more poo there obviously can't be a test, but I'd look into getting her some medication. 

Answering the questions Elly posted would definitely be a help as well...

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## Reptibian

Here is a link to Slurps picture (I put it on yahoo answers (because this site wont let me)-         https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...2202443AAJ9bIe 
Here is a link to enclosure-    https://answers.yahoo.com/question/i...2202643AAJvIR2 

2 seperate questions because for some reason it only lets you post one photo per question lol.

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## Reptibian

Yep just answered for you guys!

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## Cris

Temperature in your tank is too cold (which slows digestion) and your humidity levels are too inconsistent. irThumper already posted ideal temperatures, and humidity should stay between 40-60% (with 50 being ideal). I would suggest misting smaller amounts of water more frequently to maintain a better constant humidity level. 

That said, temps are probably not the only problem, as it sounds like she has parasites. I would continue with honey baths (be sure you give her a plain water bath afterwards to remove honey residue) to help her poop so you can bring the fecal sample into the vet for a parasite check. Have you tried any other feeders to tempt him into eating? Something like waxworms or butterworms are more of a treat rather than a staple, but supposedly taste great to frogs and may at least give him something to poop out. Hornworms (not wild caught ones as they are toxic) or nightcrawlers are healthier but may be less tempting (and hornworms can be hard to find).

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irThumper

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## Frogfeet123

Agreeing with everyone else, you should bump the temps up to around 80. 


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## Reptibian

Any temperatures over 76 and she stays on bottom of tank in corners where it the coolest and has the most shade.

But pooping isn't the issue anymore as she has no food in her system. I need a way to get her to open her mouth or even attempt to try food. She simply acts like she cant see it (even though it moving right in front of her!)

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## elly

If worst comes to worst and she isn't tempted by anything you may have to use a credit card, tongue depressor or something to force her mouth open. (Note: this is a two-person job.) It's a very stressful option, but if nothing else is working...

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irThumper

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## Reptibian

I've read many other posts like this ok this forum. Almost all have ended with the frog dying. This comes out of no where and I feel bad for everyone who loses a frog. I tell myself that it won't happen to slurp but I'm afraid she's not doing too well. Upon inspection under light tonight I found her legs and belly to have redness, I have no doubts that she has red leg. I really don't want to lose her as she is family to me. 
Frogger00- you mentioned you were dealing with a frog that had red leg. What are you doing to fight it off?

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## Amy

The best way to deal with red leg is to put a call in to the vet to be absolutely sure what you're dealing with.  If you're in SE WI, there is an excellent one in Menomonee Falls.  I can't think of the name off the top of my head tonight,  but I'll grab it for you in the morning.

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irThumper

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## Reptibian

Can red leg be cured? Last time my boy frog got it he was given shots and i was given a dozen or so but it seemed only to delay the inevitable as he died 4 months later.

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## Amy

It can, it depends on what is causing it.  The vet would swab and pinpoint the cause in order to prescribe the correct medication.  Sometimes, frogs are beyond the point of saving, but it doesn't sound like this guy is, so long as you get help for him soon.  

Here is the website of the vet that I would recommend if you're in the area - http://brookfallsveterinary.com/ - They would be honest with you if there is nothing you can do.

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irThumper

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## Lindsey

Hi, sorry for jumping in here.  I haven't read all the replies, so if this is a repeat of what anyone has already suggested, I apologize.
I've had whites for a very long time, and have found they prefer to have warmer temps during the day, I keep mine at just under 80, but they can tolerate up to about 82 (Fahrenheit).
If your frog is staying toward the bottom of the tank at higher temps, it suggests to me the humidity is too low so he is trying to stay low where the moisture is.
As far as your runny poop, this is sounds like a protozoan problem (I've treated one very sick froglet for this), but you must get a fecal sample to confirm.  YOu can force feed if necessary, there should be a few threads on here about that.
but in the mean time, you may want to contact dr. frye (search on here for his contact info, I've used him many times), he can send you metro and baytril, and I would suggest treating right away, even before fecal test is performed.  I would ask the advice of dr. frye, but i assume he would suggest the same.
once your frog is feeling better, he will begin eating.  metro will stimulate his appetite as will the higher temps.
as far as red leg goes, I have never personally dealt with it in my frogs, but it is usually linked to the cleanliness of the enclosure.  do you change  and clean the water bowl daily?  use very hot water and a papertowel to wipe the bowl - *daily*
Definitely contact dr. frye, milan animal hospital in Michigan.  you can google his contact info and/or search the forum.  He will work with you via email and with photos.  he can ship you medication, which sounds like you desperately need at this point.
good luck!

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irThumper, Snappi13

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## Lindsey

Dr Frye can be contacted at dr.frye.vetatmilan@gmail.com

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## Reptibian

Thanks, and yes i clean water bowl and wipe down with a paper towel every day because of any slime that accumulates

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## Reptibian

I'm worried the hour and a half drive there might cause unwanted stress as well. I'm really not sure what to do for her right now. She is still her happy self but not having eaten for such i long time i fear that even of she gets her appetite back she will just get sick again. As for the contacting the doctor fre how much would those meds cost plus shipping to manitowoc wisconsin?

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## Amy

Dr Frye is usually very reasonable with costs.  I would call Brook Falls and just get their opinion right now.  Honestly...slowly starving to death is far more stressful than a bit of a drive for a possible answer and treatment.  There is also a possibility of only having to drive the fecal samples and skin swabs there too.  That's why I would call and talk to someone.  They are really amazing people and very understanding of how to work with exotic pets in a least stressful way.

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irThumper, Snappi13

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## Reptibian

I have a vet in Green Bay that I went to for my male frog. I'm worried it's too late to do anything now though. I REALLY do NOT want her to die. I can't describe the pain I'm feeling just thinking about it. If I call them would they be able to tell if she is still save able over phone?

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## Stephanie

In my opinion it's never too late to try and save a life. It doesn't sound to me like she's on her death bed. The only way to know for sure is to take her to the vet. Frogs can be resilient. I have a few whites myself that have had trips to the vet and a few rounds of treatment. All is currently well  for my frogs [emoji196] good luck and I'm hoping your frog feels better soon


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## Reptibian

I work until 3:30 and can't get a ride earlier because my parents work. Vet 45 minutes away closes at 3:45. I don't know what to do. I'm not sure how to contact dr. Frye because I don't really email people ever

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## Michael Novy

Well everyone is on the same page. Temps are too low. If you want to try something, try metronidizole 250 mg to 1 liter of frog safe water) a fish mediction that was made for treating  protozoa. It also has antibacterial properties that help with gram neg.and gram pos. bacteria. Treatment is for 10-14 day 20-40 minutes a day soaking. Must put in a clean sterile environment every day. Best of luck.

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deranged chipmunk, irThumper

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## Reptibian

I have an appointment scheduled with a vet about 30  minutes away for monday. Until then ill keep up the honey baths every other day

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irThumper, Snappi13

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## Reptibian

Ok so I went to the vet today and on the way there she pooped and peed. The poop was a good sign as she must've had one of the crickets I put in her home. The pee was yellow, I'm not sure if it's supposed to be that color. Granted I've never seen her pee in jar so that I could she the color. The vet had no idea what was wrong with her and he checked her mouth by opening with a paper clip because she keeps it shut. He doesn't think there is red leg but every once in a while some red shows up on her bottom of legs when she's riled up. What can I do to make her want to open her mouth and eat? Vet said he was going to check with other vets in Wisconsin for any answers. I also had a fecal sample done which turned out parasite free (yay!)

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irThumper

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## Reptibian

Doctor called back and said to bump up temp so i bought new bulb 60 watt but i think i need 75 watts. He also recommend i try meal worms to stimulate her appetite. He said force feed if necessary. I feel it may be red leg but she only is red every once in a while?

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## irThumper

I would NOT feed mealworms as they are high in chitin. Try waxworms, they are soft and easy to digest but higher in fat. Once those temps get up there (be sure to monitor humidity as higher temps can make it drop) her appetite might improve. WTFs legs can redden due to stress and hyper-activity, jumping on the glass walls/décor too.

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Snappi13

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## Reptibian

Sorry for not replying for 4 weeks I was busy with everything going on. I gave her a week long oral treatment of 0.03 cc of baytril which definitely helped her. My mom and I force fed her crickets three times and she ate a mealworm on her on willingness. But then I had to go camping for a week so I have no clue how she ate then. Now she hasnt really eaten but that is because i re did her enclosure yesterday. Im not sure what to do, the redness is almost gone, do you think another week dosage on baytril would help?

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