# Frogs & Toads > Pacman Frogs >  Albino Pacman Frog Questions

## sobo

Hi, I have been looking in these forums for a while and decided to make an account and ask my own questions.
I have 2 firebelly toads (Doing great! Had them for almost a year now!)
And now I just got a new pacman frog.

Ive had a couple pacman frogs in the past and neither of them worked out, the first one never ate so I gave him back and the second one stopped eating so I gave him back. I than decided to try a Albino pacman frog. So I just got a baby Albino pacman frog yesterday. Hes about the size of a quarter and ill put up a picture of him at the bottom on this.
I dont know if they have any special treatment they need because its "Albino". He has red eyes and I heard the wrong kind of light can burn the eyes/skin.

So my question to you experts is do I need to do anything different with Albino's?
Is my set-up correct for pacman frogs?


Heres the details on him:
Hes a baby so hes in a little cricket keeper cage, once he gets bigger I have a 10 gallon tank ready for him.
The bottom of the cage is layered with about 2 inches deep of coconut fiber.
He doesnt have a water bowl because I cant find one small enough to fit in the cage, he should be fine without one though, its only for now because hes so small.
Instead, to keep the humidity up, I put some very wet moss in there on one side of the cage. I also spay the cage down 2-3 times a day. (only had him for one day so far)
To keep the temp. up, I use a heating lamp (40watt red bulb). I think a red light was the best choice, please correct me if im wrong.
I also use a heating pad on the side of the cage, because I didnt want it to hot, I only put a forth of the pad on the side of the cage.
So the cage stays at a 40-60 humidity and a 78-85 temp.
For food, I went to the store and got little pinhead crickets(I do use vitamin D3 powder). I tried feeding him today but he didnt eat it. Nothing to worry about since its its first day getting used to his new home correct? 


Thats about all I can say, hes doing good. A lot better than when I got him. He was very frightened from the 5 day trip in a box. (stupid websites only care about the money).
Ill take a picture of his cage and all if you have more questions you need to know to answer mine. 

If theres anything im doing wrong or something you suggest doing different, please please let me know.

Heres a picture of him! 




( I will continue to post updates on him to be sure everything is going correctly  :Smile:  )

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## IvoryReptiles

Hi!

Okay temps are good and the enclosure size is fine for now. I would NOT use the moss in the cage if you feed in it though. it can be ingested and cause an impaction.
The red light for heat is okay, but honestly, a UTH would be better placed on one side of the cage.
He NEEDS a water source, not just being sprayed down. We use milk caps for the smaller ones......even a proper sized bottle cap. It doesn't need to be deep, just deep enough for the frog to sit in it and relax. PLEASE make sure ALL water used is de-chlorinated!!!
The only difference between the albino & the normal colors is that the albino are more sensitive to light and can burn easily under a regular light bulb. 

Remember that it will take him a little time to get settled into a new home & environment too!

As for food.......try getting some Nightcrawlers and use proper sized bits (Yes, you will have to cut them) the worms do well kept in the fridge and will survive when losing a bit of their body every other day or so. Dust the worm bit at least every other feeding with vitamins & calcium. We offer the froglets food every evening. They don't always eat nightly, but we offer because they are growing quickly at that time. Alternate the food offered.......try cricket one night & worm the next.......if it refuses one, try the other. 

It's a matter of working with the frog & getting to know it. It takes time & attention.
And just so you know, my Husband & I breed these guys, so my advice is from years of experience. Grif also has great advice having gone through much with her frog. Plenty of folks here have great advice & information to give. I hope my tips help.

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## sobo

Thank you for your reply!

So the red light is okay, thats good to hear. And I do have a heating pad on the side of the cage.
Like I said, only a forth of it is on the cage though. Because I have the light and the tank heater, I didnt want the little cage getting to hot.
So I put the tank heater a forth of the way on the side. ( let me know if you want a picture of his cage, it would only take a couple of minutes to do, I dont mind)

So even though its humid enough I should still have some kind of water bowl? I know they love sitting in the water for days ( my otheres did), but I figured its so small, I didnt want any chance of it going in a bowl and not being able to get out. But you had a good idea, ill use a small cap or somthing for now. 
I was thinking the same thing about the moss, but I couldnt think of any other way to get his humidity up to 50. But since ill be using a waterbowl now, that should help.
If not, ill keep it in but be sure he doesnt go close to it. Hes on the opposite side of it, so he should be fine because ill be sure im right there to watch him eat.

I do use "Spring water" for everything. Even the water in my firebelly toads tank, for misting, for cleaning, anything that involves water. But some say to use distilled water, and some say to use the spring water for some of the natural chemicals. But I never knew what one was better, maybe you know.

The only reason I use crickets is because most say its a perfectly healthy diet for frogs. My other 2 fires eat them up but they eat smalls and somtimes ill give them some large ones.
Ill try another cricket tonight and if he doesnt even look at it, than ill try your nightcrawlers  :Smile: . 

Thank you very much for the info and the quick reply! Im glad to be part of the frogforum community  :Smile:

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## Colleen/Jerrod

Welcome to the forum. Jessica pretty much narrowed it down. Her info is solid. The only thing that I will add is that when feeding crickets as a rule of thumb offer crickets that are no longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. The same goes for the chunks of earth worm/night crawler.

When using the infrared light use it in combination with a lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can accurately adjust the amount of light and heat coming from the bulb. Don't  go any higher than a 50 watt bulb since you have a 40 your fine. The light will burn off humidity so becareful and mist as necessary.

Get rid of the moss like Jessica said. He will accidentaly eat some and may become impacted(severe constipation) and possibly die.

As for lights that will harm your Albino. Any Fluorescent bulb will damage your frogs eyes so they are a huge NO! As for incandescent bulbs. You can't use any type of basking bulb except the infrared bulbs. You can use a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that produces no light only heat. With any ceramic heat emitter you will need a lamp with a dimmer switch. When using lights for your frogs I can't stress enough how important it is to use a lamp with a dimmer switch. It makes it so much easier and safer to control heat and light output from your bulbs.

Cover 3 sides of your frogs enclosure with a background so he/she feels more secure. This is very important. You may only have to cover 2 since your UTH is on one side.

Good luck and keep us posted on the little ones progress.

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Thank you for your reply!
> 
> So the red light is okay, thats good to hear. And I do have a heating pad on the side of the cage.
> Like I said, only a forth of it is on the cage though. Because I have the light and the tank heater, I didnt want the little cage getting to hot.
> So I put the tank heater a forth of the way on the side. ( let me know if you want a picture of his cage, it would only take a couple of minutes to do, I dont mind)
> 
> So even though its humid enough I should still have some kind of water bowl? I know they love sitting in the water for days ( my otheres did), but I figured its so small, I didnt want any chance of it going in a bowl and not being able to get out. But you had a good idea, ill use a small cap or somthing for now. 
> I was thinking the same thing about the moss, but I couldnt think of any other way to get his humidity up to 50. But since ill be using a waterbowl now, that should help.
> If not, ill keep it in but be sure he doesnt go close to it. Hes on the opposite side of it, so he should be fine because ill be sure im right there to watch him eat.
> ...


You MUST give him/her a water bowl of some kind for soaking. He will dehydrate and die if you do not supply a water source. It has to be shallow because Pacman Frogs are not good swimmers. No deeper than half the height of your frog.

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## sobo

> Welcome to the forum. Jessica pretty much narrowed it down. Her info is solid. The only thing that I will add is that when feeding crickets as a rule of thumb offer crickets that are no longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. The same goes for the chunks of earth worm/night crawler.
> 
> When using the infrared light use it in combination with a lamp that has a dimmer switch so you can accurately adjust the amount of light and heat coming from the bulb. Don't  go any higher than a 50 watt bulb since you have a 40 your fine. The light will burn off humidity so becareful and mist as necessary.
> 
> Get rid of the moss like Jessica said. He will accidentaly eat some and may become impacted(severe constipation) and possibly die.
> 
> As for lights that will harm your Albino. Any Fluorescent bulb will damage your frogs eyes so they are a huge NO! As for incandescent bulbs. You can't use any type of basking bulb except the infrared bulbs. You can use a ceramic heat emitter which is a bulb that produces no light only heat. With any ceramic heat emitter you will need a lamp with a dimmer switch. When using lights for your frogs I can't stress enough how important it is to use a lamp with a dimmer switch. It makes it so much easier and safer to control heat and light output from your bulbs.
> 
> Cover 3 sides of your frogs enclosure with a background so he/she feels more secure. This is very important. You may only have to cover 2 since your UTH is on one side.
> ...


Hi, thanks for the info!

I dont have a switch light with a dimmer switch, but I use my light for the heat only. The heating pad didnt provide enough heat for my other pacman frog in the 10 gallon tank so I had to buy a light as well to keep the temp. up. He gets my room light for a day/night cycle. Im home all day and work at night so its perfect. 

I dont know anything about bulbs and lights and the different kinds so i cant tell you much on that, but it is a 40watt bulb that makes a red light. Red seemed the safest to me.

As for the moss, yes. I will be taking that out when I get a waterbowl in there for him. Ill have to make one because my pet stores dont carry little ones.
Ivory had a good idea, ill use a cap of some sort. I would take it out now but i want him to feel perfectly at home while he adjusts to it, he had a very long and unpeasent trip to my house.

Heres a picture of his cage, the moss on the right, like I said, is there just for now to keep it humpid while I get a bowl. I wont feed him while that moss is in there so it wont do any harm. The heating pad as you can see is on the back of the cage only a little, and hes in the back left corner. The light is always on 24/7 but I had to shut it off because of the picture.




I would be more than happy to keep you all updated  :Smile: . Thank you very much for your help!

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Hi, thanks for the info!
> 
> I dont have a switch light with a dimmer switch, but I use my light for the heat only. The heating pad didnt provide enough heat for my other pacman frog in the 10 gallon tank so I had to buy a light as well to keep the temp. up. He gets my room light for a day/night cycle. Im home all day and work at night so its perfect. 
> 
> I dont know anything about bulbs and lights and the different kinds so i cant tell you much on that, but it is a 40watt bulb that makes a red light. Red seemed the safest to me.
> 
> As for the moss, yes. I will be taking that out when I get a waterbowl in there for him. Ill have to make one because my pet stores dont carry little ones.
> Ivory had a good idea, ill use a cap of some sort. I would take it out now but i want him to feel perfectly at home while he adjusts to it, he had a very long and unpeasent trip to my house.
> 
> ...


Invest in a clamp lamp with a dimmer switch soon. A cap will work for a water bowl for now like Jess said.

Keep him/her warm and moist. The setup is good for now.

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## sobo

> Invest in a clamp lamp with a dimmer switch soon. A cap will work for a water bowl for now like Jess said.
> 
> Keep him/her warm and moist. The setup is good for now.


Alright, will do. Thanks for the help! Ill keep this thread updated.

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## IvoryReptiles

One more point.....DO NOT use distilled water........EVER!!!

Distilled water has absolutely nothing in it....no minerals or vitamins........they absorb the water through their skin and it will leach out what minerals & vitamins the frog has in it's system and will kill the frog.

Spring water is fine, and so is dechlorinated water.

Grif's advice is spot on! And you may want to invest in a good digital temp gun to get accurate readings of your temps in the enclosure.......make adjustments to the heating pad to get the temps at a steady 75-85 daytime temps.

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## Carlos

Welcome to Frog Forum Sobo!  You got good information from Jessica & Grif.  As stated by them; the moss got to go ASAP.  If frog was in a box for 5 days would recommend to try and get it eating soonest.  Small Pacmans like that need food daily.

Spring water is fine; tap is OK too as long as you use a conditioner (removes Cl, chloramines, and heavy metals).  Distilled, de-ionized, or R/O water are not good and will harm your frog.  If you live near a Petsmart; check out the hermit crab water dishes.  They have a very small one that sells for 99 cents and it will fit in a small critter keeper and serve as a soaking dish for small frog.

Remember to wash your hands and rinse them with dechlorinated water before handling your frogs.  It's a good idea to wash them again after done handling.  Good luck!

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## sobo

> One more point.....DO NOT use distilled water........EVER!!!
> 
> Distilled water has absolutely nothing in it....no minerals or vitamins........they absorb the water through their skin and it will leach out what minerals & vitamins the frog has in it's system and will kill the frog.
> 
> Spring water is fine, and so is dechlorinated water.
> 
> Grif's advice is spot on! And you may want to invest in a good digital temp gun to get accurate readings of your temps in the enclosure.......make adjustments to the heating pad to get the temps at a steady 75-85 daytime temps.


Thank you very much for this, ive been wondering for a while which is better to use. I always used spring because it makes more sense than useing pure h2o.

Now i know for sure what im useing is perfect  :Smile:  thanks!

Thanks Carlos for the water dish idea, im gonna go to the pet store and a little hermit crab one today  :Smile: 



Okay, update on the little guy.
I took the moss out, and for now put a plastic lid as a waterbowl. Even freshly after a new mist his humidity did drop from 55 to 30 though, after i took the moss out.
Any ideas on how to make it more humid?

Besides that everythings fine, he still hasnt ate anything and he gets scared really really easy. He jumps when i go to mist the cage.

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Thank you very much for this, ive been wondering for a while which is better to use. I always used spring because it makes more sense than useing pure h2o.
> 
> Now i know for sure what im useing is perfect  thanks!
> 
> Thanks Carlos for the water dish idea, im gonna go to the pet store and a little hermit crab one today 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, update on the little guy.
> ...


The lowest they can handle humidity wise is 65%. If you can keep it at 65% he will be fine. Just do your best to get it to 70 to 80%. The problem is that those keepers breathe so well that you lose humidity. You can veover half the enclosures top with a damp cloth or towel. This will help hold humidity.

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## sobo

> The lowest they can handle humidity wise is 65%. If you can keep it at 65% he will be fine. Just do your best to get it to 70 to 80%. The problem is that those keepers breathe so well that you lose humidity. You can veover half the enclosures top with a damp cloth or towel. This will help hold humidity.


Okay than the humidiy must be the problem with my pacman frogs the whole time. If they arnt humid enough will they stop eating? Because both either didnt eat or stopped.(they didnt die, I returned them saftly to the pet store). Thats why i wanted to try a albino. But yeah the humidity has never been that high, its always 30-50. 50 at the most. 

The little cricket cage is already barley any open holes. If i cover half he wont have any breathing space. Or will he? My knowlege has come off books and internet, so please let me know anything you know, its a lot more reliable.
But even in that plastic little cage its only 40, nevermind a big 10gallon glass tank. 
So any ideas from anyone of how to get humidity up without using moss please let me know! 

Also, what humidity do tomato frogs need? Im getting a baby and hes going in a 10gallon.


Sorry for all the questions, but I want to be sure my frogs are at the best care.
Thanks for all your help!

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Okay than the humidiy must be the problem with my pacman frogs the whole time. If they arnt humid enough will they stop eating? Because both either didnt eat or stopped.(they didnt die, I returned them saftly to the pet store). Thats why i wanted to try a albino. But yeah the humidity has never been that high, its always 30-50. 50 at the most. 
> 
> The little cricket cage is already barley any open holes. If i cover half he wont have any breathing space. Or will he? My knowlege has come off books and internet, so please let me know anything you know, its a lot more reliable.
> But even in that plastic little cage its only 40, nevermind a big 10gallon glass tank. 
> So any ideas from anyone of how to get humidity up without using moss please let me know! 
> 
> Also, what humidity do tomato frogs need? Im getting a baby and hes going in a 10gallon.
> 
> 
> ...


He'll be fine with half the enclosure covered with a damp wash cloth. They are very sensitive to their environment and even more so as babies. Lack of correct humidity as well as temps being to low or to high can cause them to stop eating. Stress is one of the highest reasons if noth the highest reason for captive frog deaths. You must maintain correct temps and humidity and especially as babies and while they're adapting to their new home.

Post within the Tomato frog and Chubby frog section of the forum to get correct humidity levels for Tomato frogs.

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## sobo

> He'll be fine with half the enclosure covered with a damp wash cloth. They are very sensitive to their environment and even more so as babies. Lack of correct humidity as well as temps being to low or to high can cause them to stop eating. Stress is one of the highest reasons if noth the highest reason for captive frog deaths. You must maintain correct temps and humidity and especially as babies and while they're adapting to their new home.
> 
> Post within the Tomato frog and Chubby frog section of the forum to get correct humidity levels for Tomato frogs.


Okay, the humidity is still only at 45. I even put a lot of really moist cocnut fiber in there and misted it down really good. Added a waterbowl and a damp cloth over half. 
Its a small plastic cage, and its still only at 45. I dont know what else to do.


I did post my questions in the tomato frog forum, but no answers. So i just asked the one quick question just incase someone had a tomato frog too.

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Okay, the humidity is still only at 45. I even put a lot of really moist cocnut fiber in there and misted it down really good. Added a waterbowl and a damp cloth over half. 
> Its a small plastic cage, and its still only at 45. I dont know what else to do.
> 
> 
> I did post my questions in the tomato frog forum, but no answers. So i just asked the one quick question just incase someone had a tomato frog too.


I think there must be something wrong with your humidity gauge. Those keepers aren't the greatest at holding in humidity, but I've never had trouble keeping it atleast 65%. If you are having trouble this much with humidity levels I would buy a 5 gallon tank to keep him in that is glass. It may be a lot easier for you to keep him warm and humid this way. If you mist too much trying to raise humidity you will make the substrate overly wet which is bad. Pacman frogs need moist or heavily damp substrate not mud. Keepers are not the best enclosures. They are only good for a temporary home.

Test your hygrometer and see if it is working properly or go out and buy a digital one. Analog gauges aren't the most accurate of gauges out there.

I'm not sure about the Tomato frog humidity. I think its 60 to 70%.

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## sobo

> I think there must be something wrong with your humidity gauge. Those keepers aren't the greatest at holding in humidity, but I've never had trouble keeping it atleast 65%. If you are having trouble this much with humidity levels I would buy a 5 gallon tank to keep him in that is glass. It may be a lot easier for you to keep him warm and humid this way. If you mist too much trying to raise humidity you will make the substrate overly wet which is bad. Pacman frogs need moist or heavily damp substrate not mud. Keepers are not the best enclosures. They are only good for a temporary home.
> 
> Test your hygrometer and see if it is working properly or go out and buy a digital one. Analog gauges aren't the most accurate of gauges out there.
> 
> I'm not sure about the Tomato frog humidity. I think its 60 to 70%.


Its a brand new gauge I just bought when I got him. I got it to 50 now, do you think he would be good in a 10 gallon tank?
He hasnt ate anything yet, and he gets scared everytime I take the top off the cage. Its been 4 days since I got him.

Is this all normal? Can they go a week or 2 without eating when they are a baby?

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Its a brand new gauge I just bought when I got him. I got it to 50 now, do you think he would be good in a 10 gallon tank?
> He hasnt ate anything yet, and he gets scared everytime I take the top off the cage. Its been 4 days since I got him.
> 
> Is this all normal? Can they go a week or 2 without eating when they are a baby?


Hmm 10 is very large for a baby. If you can maintain 80 to 82 degrees and keep the humidity up it is possible to house a baby in a 10 gallon. The bad thing is that they need a lot of food and nutrition as babies and the more space there is the harder it is for them to catch food. It may be too much for him/her. I raised Grif since she was a baby about the size of a half dallor in a 10 gallon. I ran her food to her and she wasn't very frightened of me though.

It is normal for them not to eat when they are adjusting to a new home. Some will eat an hour after being placed in their new home and others will take upwards to a week. It all depends on the frog. You can try talking to your frog before removing the lid and after doing so. You may think this is silly or weird, but they are animals and can respond to sound. It takes time for them to not see you as a threat. When you feed him/her break the hind legs off the crickets. It makes them easier to catch.

Keep us posted on his/her progress.

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## Carlos

Mmmm would get another hygrometer because your''s could be off.  I get mine at PETCO; they sell some cheap ones that work pretty good.  Just look at all of them in store and avoid the ones that read very different from the group.  Also, have a digital one at home that I use to check how the cheaper analogs are doing once a week.  The hygrometer should be located close to substrate, not enclosure top, to read right humidity.

Since your frog is not eating and stressed would think a move into the 10 gal. is advisable.    Will need to either lead crickets to frog (and remove hind legs) or feed worms to ensure baby frog eats.  Also, avoid loud noises and talking while working on frogs tank.  My Pacman does not likes and get's scared when I talk on phone while feeding or cleaning tank.

Do make sure that you cover 3 sides and adjust ventilation so humidity is maintained properly.  Would start the 10 with half the screen top covered with plastic wrap (from kitchen).  Heat from a 50W ceramic emitter (or similar heat source) in a dimmable fixture (Fluker's makes them) can be placed on the other side.  

Search forum for "false bottom" set-ups; it's a simple great way to maintain humidity without need for constant spraying.  Only materials needed are hydroballs and plastic screening for a simple one or can add an undergravel aquarium filter (or build similar) to have draining/filling access.

IRT Tomato frog; might consider holding off on that until you get the Pacman stable.  Have not kept them before and the forum has no care sheets for them yet; but can find a few if you Google for it.  One thing I know is that you keep them at lower temps and babies/juveniles are sensitive to even low 80's.

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## sobo

Thanks for all the advice, but I think I have the cage settled. I have digital gauges coming in the next couple days, but everything seems to be fine.

The only problem is ive had him for a week and he still has not ate. I think its becasue hes stressed or something because he doesnt even try to go for the crickets.
He just lets them walk very slowly right by his face  :Frown:

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Thanks for all the advice, but I think I have the cage settled. I have digital gauges coming in the next couple days, but everything seems to be fine.
> 
> The only problem is ive had him for a week and he still has not ate. I think its becasue hes stressed or something because he doesnt even try to go for the crickets.
> He just lets them walk very slowly right by his face



If it comes down to it you may have to force feed the little guy/girl. Some don't acclimate easily. I would try to get some food and vitamins in him/her. Might help bring him/her out of it. Although force feeding also causes stress if you feel like your frog may starve you should force feed. Ido not know for sure what is stressing your little frog. Perhaps too much traffic where you have your frogs enclosre or too much activity as well as light around the tank during feeding. They don't like when you turn on lights in your the room they are in when its supposed to be dark and them active.

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## IvoryReptiles

Try some cut pieces of nightcrawler before you start force feeding. Do your best NOT to do everything right over his head.
Like any small animal, baby frogs know that if it casts a shadow over you, it's probably going to eat you!!
Be a Ninja Frog-Keeper...........do as much as you can, as sly as possible. Try not to cast a shadow over him while misting.cover 3 sides with dark paper or background and let the frog see you moving around in the room.......let him get used to you being out there. But like I said, when working in it's cage, try your best not to cast shadows. 

Hope this helps!

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GrifTheGreat

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## Colleen/Jerrod

Do as Jessica says. Force feeding is only a last resort in a life or death senario. Only if absolutely necessary. I hope he/she eats for you soon. :Smile:

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## sobo

> Try some cut pieces of nightcrawler before you start force feeding. Do your best NOT to do everything right over his head.
> Like any small animal, baby frogs know that if it casts a shadow over you, it's probably going to eat you!!
> Be a Ninja Frog-Keeper...........do as much as you can, as sly as possible. Try not to cast a shadow over him while misting.cover 3 sides with dark paper or background and let the frog see you moving around in the room.......let him get used to you being out there. But like I said, when working in it's cage, try your best not to cast shadows. 
> 
> Hope this helps!


Wel what im doing is leading the cricket to him with my hand, it walks by him than i pick it up and do it again. After about 3 times, i take it out and try again that night. I do it once in the afternoon and once at night. Im hoping one day he will eat one, than be good from there. 
Is this a good idea? It will give him a chance to get used to me as well, since my hand will always be in there.

The shadow thing makes sense, because in his little cage everytime i put the lid on he would freak out. Thanks for that, i didnt know why he was freaking out XD.



Thanks for the advice! I will try the worms if this doesnt work, but how would you force feed a frog? How long can he go without eating? Hes still as small as in that picture, hes a little baby.

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Wel what im doing is leading the cricket to him with my hand, it walks by him than i pick it up and do it again. After about 3 times, i take it out and try again that night. I do it once in the afternoon and once at night. Im hoping one day he will eat one, than be good from there. 
> Is this a good idea? It will give him a chance to get used to me as well, since my hand will always be in there.
> 
> The shadow thing makes sense, because in his little cage everytime i put the lid on he would freak out. Thanks for that, i didnt know why he was freaking out XD.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice! I will try the worms if this doesnt work, but how would you force feed a frog? How long can he go without eating? Hes still as small as in that picture, hes a little baby.


This may be your problem. You should place the food in and leave him be to do it on his own. He is stressed and not used to you or his new home yet and trying to run the food to him is scaring your frog. He doesn't understand that you are trying to help. Break the hind legs off the crickets ato make them easier to catch and drop them in and let him fend for himself. Babies need as much food as possible for proper growth so he should be fed every night. Babies can't go as long as adults can by no means.

Try what I said. Break the hind legs off and just drop them in and leave him be. Let him try on his own. Also make sure they are of proper size. No longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. Dust them before placing them in too.

Keep us posted.

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## sobo

> This may be your problem. You should place the food in and leave him be to do it on his own. He is stressed and not used to you or his new home yet and trying to run the food to him is scaring your frog. He doesn't understand that you are trying to help. Break the hind legs off the crickets ato make them easier to catch and drop them in and let him fend for himself. Babies need as much food as possible for proper growth so he should be fed every night. Babies can't go as long as adults can by no means.
> 
> Try what I said. Break the hind legs off and just drop them in and leave him be. Let him try on his own. Also make sure they are of proper size. No longer than the distance between your frogs eyes. Dust them before placing them in too.
> 
> Keep us posted.


Thank you very much for this advice! As promised, keeping you all updated  :Smile: 

This worked great! I put about 10 crickets in before i go to bed and take out the left over ones when i wake up  :Smile:  So he is eating!
I dont see it for sure, but where else did the crickets go?

I use pinheads so thats the smallest you can get :P. The do fit between his eyes.

I got 2 electronic Exo Terra Temp. Gauges (one for him and one for tomato cool frog)
And i got 2 humidity ones. They work great but the temp gets as low as 72 and as high as 78. Never higher, never lower.
His humidity never passed 50! 

So my question is, what is more important, correct humidity or correct temp for a pacman?
I cant get them both because my heat lamp drys out the humidity like crazy. My tomato frogs cage is at a constant 75-80 humid and he doesnt have a lamp, only a pad.
So i know that the only problem why pacmans humidity is low, because of his lamp. So i can either keep everything the same, or raise his humidity by taking out the lamp, but it will get colder. 

What do you think the best idea is? Or have a good way to raise the temp. humid?
I dont think theres anything more i can do D:. But he is happy and eating  :Smile:  . And doesnt get scared when i put my hand in there to mist anymore!!  :Big Grin: 

Ill post up pics when get comes out of the ground. Hes been burrowed all day today and yesterday  :Smile:  i think hes happy!

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> Thank you very much for this advice! As promised, keeping you all updated 
> 
> This worked great! I put about 10 crickets in before i go to bed and take out the left over ones when i wake up  So he is eating!
> I dont see it for sure, but where else did the crickets go?
> 
> I use pinheads so thats the smallest you can get :P. The do fit between his eyes.
> 
> I got 2 electronic Exo Terra Temp. Gauges (one for him and one for tomato cool frog)
> And i got 2 humidity ones. They work great but the temp gets as low as 72 and as high as 78. Never higher, never lower.
> ...


You're welcome :Smile: 

To answer your question about where the crickets can go is simple. They either burrow into the substrate or hide under the water dish. So you always need to look thoroughly before assuming your frog is eating. Also you need to try and catch him in the act so you definetly know he is eating.

Both humidity and temp are equally as important. They need both for a healthy life. Misting a little more often will help with the humidity just don't watter log the substrate anymore. Pacmans are very sensitive to their tropical and subtropical environmental needs so they need to be maintained to the best of your ability.

I can't wait to see pics. Keep me posted.

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## sobo

> You're welcome
> 
> To answer your question about where the crickets can go is simple. They either burrow into the substrate or hide under the water dish. So you always need to look thoroughly before assuming your frog is eating. Also you need to try and catch him in the act so you definetly know he is eating.
> 
> Both humidity and temp are equally as important. They need both for a healthy life. Misting a little more often will help with the humidity just don't watter log the substrate anymore. Pacmans are very sensitive to their tropical and subtropical environmental needs so they need to be maintained to the best of your ability.
> 
> I can't wait to see pics. Keep me posted.


No, i always move all the substrate around and look under everything. I make sure i dont leave any crickets in there, but it could be possible.
Im now about to keep a steady 75+ humidity, 80+ temp. on pacman frogs cage. Right now its 79/81. So i think i got that settled.
Thanks for all the helP! Ill take pics one of these days.
And i just put some crickets in my tomato frogs cage and he ate one!  :Smile:  So i came on to tell everyone!

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