# Frogs & Toads > Budgett's Frogs >  Cycling?

## RaudyReptiles

Ok, I have been researching budgetts frogs for a while now...and have decided on the "classic" (Lepidobatrachus Laevis) I have a vision in my head on what I want the tank to look like... I'm thinking some java moss and some pothos to help with nitrates and generally balance the water quality. Anyways, do I have to cycle the tank? It has come to my attention that some people do 100% water changes with no filter...wouldn't that "restart" the nitrogen cycle. Thanks for putting up with my noob questions

Thanks! 
Colton

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## Carlos

Hi Colton!  Budgetts are great frogs, just got me a juvie at the Hamburg show.  You can keep aquatic frogs with no filtering and do large 25-100% daily water changes depending on tank size, frog biomass, and how fast ammonia accumulates.  In that system there is no established nitrogen cycle and it's what I'm doing while traveling with my frogs.  It is in a small ExoTerra breeding box and gets up to two full, same temperature, dechlorinated tap water changes a day.  Mine eats lots and poops even more  :Big Grin:  .

Once I get home, will set it up in a large tank (either a 15G or a 29G).  That tank will have an internal filter with a water depth of 1.5-3 times the height of the frog's body.  Budgettt's like to reach the surface while at rest in bottom.  Maybe will try to build something with a platform in one side that will allow that plus a deeper water section if going with 29G.  That tank/filter combo should cycle itself in 4 weeks, without any intervention, other than smaller daily water changes to keep ammonia levels under control until filter is cycled.  You can shorten cycling in half by using a product like Seachem Stability.

Once your tank is cycled, weekly 25% water changes will help keep Nitrates level below 50ppm; but if you have growing plants and cut/remove their biomass weekly, that will help too.  Growing plants is your choice as is decor.  Frogs will do fine without them.  Filter media should only be cleaned in tank water.  If replacing media, alternate between pads and biomedia, and never replace all at the same time.  

There is some information around that you need to estivate the frogs yearly; but many die during process.  I'm going with no estivation like I do with my other frogs.  Hope this helps and good luck  :Smile:  !

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RaudyReptiles

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## RaudyReptiles

Thank you so much for the insight, I was assuming you needed to cycle the water but no one ever mentioned it in the budgett frog forum. Also congrats on your new frog they are absolutely adorable.

Thanks!
Colton

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## Carlos

You are welcome!  In reality the water is never cycled, since it has no surface to harbor the ammonia and nitrite reducing bacteria; the aquarium is.  Bacteria are aerobic and grow large populations in the oxygen rich environment of the filter media and smaller ones in natural gravel/sand first couple in. if its provided.  If you search Google for "aquarium nitrogen cycle" should get discussions that include graphic charts to help understand how it works  :Smile:  .

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## RaudyReptiles

> You are welcome!  In reality the water is never cycled, since it has no surface to harbor the ammonia and nitrite reducing bacteria; the aquarium is.  Bacteria are aerobic and grow large populations in the oxygen rich environment of the filter media and smaller ones in natural gravel/sand first couple in. if its provided.  If you search Google for "aquarium nitrogen cycle" should get discussions that include graphic charts to help understand how it works  .


 So if it's not ever truly cycled will i have problems with nitrates or will I have to constantly add Seachem stability? I'm thinking the plants and weekly water changes will help the nitrates quite a bit...I thought I understood the Nitrogen cycle until you said it's never truly cycled haha. Also how do I keep my ph alkaline (7.0) without using all those ph chemicals

Thanks!
Colton

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## Carlos

I state the water is never cycled, since the bacteria do not live on the water column; they need a surface to attach too.  What you actually cycle is the filter and that is the reason filter media (i.e. bio-balls) by design has a large surface area.

Nitrates can be removed by water changes or by exporting plant biomass out of the tank.  Leaving old leaves, stems, etc. in the tank to rot, will release nutrients the plant took out of the water column, to include nitrates.

To buffer tank safely, can use aragonite in a small bag on the filter.  Would start with a tablespoon of aragonite (saltwater aquarium substrate) and check the pH after 24 hours, then adjust the amount as needed  :Smile:  .

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## chibikaie

The point is that it is not the water itself that cycles, it's the aquarium.

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## RaudyReptiles

> I state the water is never cycled, since the bacteria do not live on the water column; they need a surface to attach too.  What you actually cycle is the filter and that is the reason filter media (i.e. bio-balls) by design has a large surface area.
> 
> Nitrates can be removed by water changes or by exporting plant biomass out of the tank.  Leaving old leaves, stems, etc. in the tank to rot, will release nutrients the plant took out of the water column, to include nitrates.
> 
> To buffer tank safely, can use aragonite in a small bag on the filter.  Would start with a tablespoon of aragonite (saltwater aquarium substrate) and check the pH after 24 hours, then adjust the amount as needed  .


I understand it now haha I feel so stupid :Stupid:  I have found a product that Seachem makes that is called "neutral regulator" which raises or lowers the ph to 7.0 and maintains it there! The filter I believe I will use is the fluval u4 underwater filter. I'd prefer a canister filter but I'm afraid of to much current on a 20 gallon for my frog. This is definitely a learning process but I am up for the challenge  :Smile: 

Thanks!
Colton

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