# General Topics > General Discussion & News > Care Sheet Proposals >  American Green tree frog (Schneider 1799) and relatives (Final)

## Ryan

*American Green Tree Frog (Schneider 1799) and Relatives
*


Family: Hylidae

Subfamily : Hylinae

Distribution: South-eastern United States

Adult STV length:  5.1-6cm (2.0-2.5”)

Lifespan: 3-8 years

Captive difficulty: Novice

Breeding difficulty: intermediate

Activity: Nocturnal

Temperature: Tolerant of wide variety of temperatures in nature 70-85F (22.2-29.5C)

Diet: Insectivorous (crickets, moths, mealworms, waxworms)

*Description and Natural History*
 The green tree frog _Hyla cinerea_ is a small to medium sized tree   frog varying from 2-2.5” (5.1-6 cm) although larger specimens have  been  found. These frogs are most recognizable by their lateral cream  stripe  from the corners of the mouth to the flanks. Some populations  lack the  dorsal stripe entirely easily being confused with the squirrel  tree frog. Color can range from bright to dark green,  yellow, and  brown depending on the temperature or stress levels. The  backsides of  some frogs have yellow or white spots and like may arboreal  frogs, have  toe pads. Coloration within the eye of the frog is a  golden to bronze  coloration and horizontal pupils are presented  identifying _Hyla cinerea_ as a nocturnal frog.

The distribution of the slender anuran stretches throughout the   south-eastern United States ranging from eastern Texas, Louisiana,   south-eastern tip of Oklahoma and Missouri, Mississippi, Southern   Illinois, western Kentucky and Tennessee, southern Georgia, Abundant   along the eastern coast of South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia,   Maryland and Delaware. They are absent from northern Alabama, absent   from north-western Arkansas. Green tree frogs will commonly inhabit   areas with heavy emergent vegetation near bodies of water from lakes,   streams, ponds and vernal pools. They have been known to rest within the   tree notches of palmetto trees and the sides of cat tails.

Green tree frogs are known to go into a period of dormancy when   temperatures drop below the 50s and take refuge in leaf litter and  various soils within  their northernmost range.  From March through  September is the time  period in which _Hyla cinerea_ will breed.  Hormonal activity is  determined by daylight hours, precipitation, and  rises in temperature.   Males begin to call during and prior to rain  from low branches or  vegetation. The call sounds similar to a high  pitched duck, (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PaNX6pJsIT0).   Females choose their mate by the sound of their call and the male tree   frogs will mate with as many females as they possibly can fathering   several egg clutches. Egg mass vary by the size and health of the female   frogs, the average size of an egg clutch is thought to be 400.  Tadpoles  will take 5-14 days to develop into tadpoles. After hatching  from their  gelatinous egg, tadpoles will retain yolk moving only if  necessary.  This will last for the first couple days after emerging. The  frog larvae  vary from 4.5-5.5 mm but will grow to be nearly 60 mm  before  metamorphosis occurs. Tadpoles are opportunistic and will eat   vegetation, dead fish, and even each other if food is scarce. Tadpoles   will turn to froglets within 5-8 weeks.

*


  The Squirrel Tree Frog (Bosc 1800)
*
  The squirrel tree frog (_Hyla squirella_) is very similar to the green tree frog and has many similar traits. _Hyla        squirella_   reaches a maximum snout to vent length of 1.0-1.5” (2.5-3.8 cm).   Squirrel tree frogs lack the stripe that    the green tree frog has,   colors range from green, brown, or even gray. Squirrel tree frogs are   insectivorous eating   very small prey items. Habitat ranges from marsh   wetland areas to pine forests. Breeding occurs from March to  August   within temporary bodies of water. They are an introduced species to the  Bahamas 


*The Barking Tree Frog (LeConte 1856)
*
The barking tree frog (Hyla gratiosa) is the largest native tree frog in  the United  States. Large females can reach 2.75” STV length but the  average is  usually 2.5”. Has a large body with noticeably rough skin  and large toe  pads.  Barking tree frogs have more spots on their back  in a geometrical  pattern, sometimes called a “Leopard frog”. Color can  vary from green,  brown and grey. Inhabits coastal forests and will  burrow when  conditions are harsh and will emerge again when conditions  become more  preferable. Breeding occurs from March to August in  wetlands and vernal  pools.

*Captive care*
American green tree frogs have been in the pet trade for nearly 50 years   and through wild caught imports, the majority are still known to be  wild  caught. I urge that captive bred animals are bought over long term   captives. If possible, ask the employee in the herp department where  the frog was acquired.

*   Housing*
The most common type of enclosure one would choose for their tree frog   is the classic glass aquarium.  They are the most readily available   enclosure and the “high” aquariums work very well for tree frogs. You   can easily convert an old 10 gallon fish tank into a “high” terrarium by   flipping the tank on its side and installing a conversion kit (from   Junglebox) for your tank or you can make your own. The outcome would   look like the vivarium’s you see in John’s thread  (Frog Forum - Building Dart Frog Terrariums / Tropical Terrarium Construction).   An alternative to this would to buy an Exo-terra  or Zoomed glass   terrarium. The design of terrarium is a good alternative because it has   easily accessible open front doors and their ventilation  strip at the   bottom of the tank gives easy airflow for the frogs. The perfect size   for the frogs would be a 12”x12”x18” This is roughly 11 gallons for a   pair of green tree frogs or squirrel tree frogs and one barking tree  frog (of course you can get a larger vivarium if  desired). Displaying  these animals in a vivarium with live plants would be the  best approach  for the inhabitants. Artificial plants can be used if you  don’t want  the hassle with live plants, just be sure that the plants you  select  don’t have any sharp edges. After all, nobody wants to have  their frog  impaled!

*Temperature and Humidity*
Within their natural range, green tree frogs tolerate large fluctuations   in temperature but thrive when temperatures are within 70-82F. This  can  be provided by having an incandescent light above the enclosure.  The heat given  off this light is gentle and should be able to sustain  the frogs. And if  not, A 10 gallon heat mat can be placed on the side  of the tank. If you  put this on the bottom, you are warming the  substrate where the frog  spends the least amount of time. If a low  quality heat mat is used, a  plug in thermostat should be used to  restrict the heat mat from  overheating. Temperatures can drop 5-10  degrees at night.
Humidity is achieved through the process of evaporation. By providing a   large water bowl or a water section in the vivarium, more humidity will   be given off. Green tree frogs require 60% humidity within the   enclosure. Too little and you risk the frog dehydrating and too much   risks the frog stressing weakening the immune system which will allow   pathogens and bacteria to enter the body.

*Lighting And UVB*
 Although the frog could care less that there’s a light above him in his   enclosure, its necessary for day/night cycles. The lighting can  consist  of either an incandescent bulb that will not only give light  but give a  gentle heat within the terrarium or florescent light fixture  across the  top of the enclosure. These can be purchased  at Lowes,  Canadian tire, Rona, Home depot and other hardware stores for  around  $20. I  find that it would be much more affordable. One must take  extreme  caution when using florescent tubes because of their mercury  content. If  the bulb starts to corrode, its likely that you should  replace it.  There have been many studies on amphibians regarding UVB  lighting and  positive feedback has come out from this research.  Amazonian Milk frogs (_Trachycephalus  recinifitrix_  ) raised  under UV light grew faster and stronger than other frogs. Many  frogs  can be raised and bred without UV light and still thrive.  Providing a  2.0 UV bulb would be appropriate for an 18” tall terrarium.  Be sure to  replace the bulbs every 6 months because the UV bulbs will  weaken  overtime. Although the light will still work, there would be no  UV  exposure after 6 months.

*Feeding*
 Small to medium sized crickets should be the staple for these tree   frogs. Crickets should be gut-loaded with oats, vegetables and fruits.   Be careful when using packaged salads because they often contain iceberg   lettuce which has no nutritional value.  After acquiring your  crickets,  be sure to gut-load them and feed your frog the day after  your cricket  acquisition.
 Other food items can be fed as well. Mealworms are another option   because of their low maintenance care but should be used but in   moderation. Mealworms and superworms have exoskeletons made of chitin   that makes digestion more difficult for the frog.  Waxworms are another   food item that should be used in moderation, they have a soft skin and   are easily digested but are high in fat. They are commonly used to put   weight on underweight frogs. Waxworms will eventually pupate into wax   moths, these can be fed as treats. Although they are fed to mainly   larger frogs, Earthworms can be one of the most nutritious food items   mentioned here. Up to 30 can be easily collected in a backyard on a   rainy night and be kept in a sterilite tub containing shredded paper or   peat moss. be sure to cut pieces small enough for the frogs and collect   from an area free from pesticides and herbicides.There are many others   that can be  used including houseflies, very small silkworms and  hornworms,  butterworms, phoenix worms and even pinky mice for large  barking tree  frogs. Food items should be dusted with calcium and  vitamin D3 to ensure  that the frog is getting the best possible  nutrition

*Breeding and Tadpole care*
 Not many people have been known to breed green tree frogs, not because   they are hard to breed but because they are so readily available as  wild  caught specimens, Its best whenever attempting to breed frogs is  to  acquire captive bred frogs. Frogs produced in captivity will  reproduce  easier than the wild caught imports. Sexing the tree frogs is  easier  than one would think. Males will have a dark baggy throat after  calling  the night before and have black nuptial pads. Females will be  much  larger and be swelled with eggs. This shouldn't be confused with  bloat  or obesity.

Seasonal changes in temperature are what’s necessary to evoke a breeding   response from the frogs. To do this, lower the temperature in the tank   10 degrees and 15 degrees with frogs from northern climates. While the   temperature drops, feeding should be limited and eventually stopped.  The  substrate should be allowed to fully dry, but be sure that the  frogs  have a source of water. After bout one or two weeks of “winter”  raise  the temperature back up to normal and heavily mist the tank, this  will  simulate the spring rains. Be sure to start feeding again  heavily. After  a couple days of this, hormone levels will increase and  stimulate the frogs for breeding.  Females will be plump with eggs and  males will call nightly.


Before conditioning the frogs, a rain chamber should be built. A rain   chamber is simply a terrarium with 2-3” of water and a pump to simulate   rain. This can be created by getting a fish tank or terrarium pump and   attaching a PVC pipe blocked at one end and with small holes drilled   into the pipe. This should be placed in a 10 gallon tank with 3” of   water. Emergent vegetation such as parrot’s feather and pothos should be   planted in the tank and cork bark or large sable ricks should be   emergent to prevent the frogs from drowning, the plants will give the   female frogs lay areas to anchor eggs.  This is where the frogs will   mate and lay eggs. After 3 days in the rain chamber, you should be able   to see an egg mass or singly-laid eggs and if not, place the frogs back   in their original enclosure and try later. Eggs should be left in the  rain chamber and water quality should be  monitored, Tadpoles grow best  in tanks that they were born in. After  tadpoles hatch from their eggs,  they will appear motionless. This is a defense mechanism that many  tadpoles have for the first few days of  their lives while they retain  the yolk from their egg.  The water pump  should be off for the first  week the tadpoles hatched. Once they become  restless and scavenge for  food along the tank bottom, Raise the water  level and a sponge filter  should be installed. Tropical fish flakes  should be fed daily, frozen  dried brine shrimp and bloodworms can be  added in as food every week.  Be sure to do regular water changes every  week. Once tadpoles start to  bud their back legs, the water level should  be lowered and branches or  driftwood should be provided for the  tadpoles to rest on. Once front  legs are visible, move the tadpoles into  a rearing tank with paper  towels and a large water dish, the froglets  will choose to stay in the  water if they want and will hop around the  tank if they wish. Once you  se that the newly metamorphed frog’s tails  have vanished, daily  feedings of dusted fruit flies will ensure that  they grow fast.

*Species Confusion:
*A wide variety of frogs are known to carry the common name of "green tree frog". The White's or Dumpy tree frog (_Litoria caerulea_)   is referred by the Aussies as the green tree frog. Do not be deceived   by this name, whites tree frogs will be more noticeable by their   impressive size of 3-4 inches. They commonly have a permanent grin on   their face unlike the American greens. Another cannibalistic adversary   of the green tree frog that is also known by the same name is the Cuban   tree frog (_Osteopilus septentrionalis_). Cubans are able to   surpass the whites in size and appetite, although males stay a measly 2   inches, gargantuan females can easily surpass 5 inches! Cubans are  known  to be slightly toxic and can stress out and may even kill. Green  tree  frogs should not be housed with their larger Cuban or Aussie   counterparts, they will be eaten!

*A Last note on Mixing Species (WARNING! Controversy Ahead)
*Many   hobbyists have given the thought of putting two species of frog in the   same tank to add some variety to their new terrarium, 
this often  ends with disaster. Mixing two different species can be done  but  requires a heavy amount of research. Often due to conflicting  
  environments, toxicity, bullying and preditation, most animals should   not be housed together. Only a handful of captive reptiles and 
amphibians  have been known to cohabitate peacefully by one another.  Green anoles  and green tree frogs can be housed successfully if
 given enough room  and attention as can grey tree frogs and greens.If  you dare to mix two  species together, consider the following. You
 are risking your animal's life possibly and possibly others within the terrarium.

*References and links*

- Frog Forum - Building Dart Frog Terrariums / Tropical Terrarium Construction

- Frog Forum - White's Tree Frog Care - Litoria caerulea

- Barlett R.D (2006) "The 25 Best Reptile and Amphibian Pets" Barron's publishing inc.

- Barlett R.D (1996-2007) "Frogs, Toads, and Treefrogs" Barron's publishing inc.

- Edmonds Devin (2007) "Tree Frogs" T.F.H. publishing co., inc.

- Edmonds Devin (2011) "Frogs and Toads" T.F.H. publishing co., inc.

- Edmonds Devin "Got Milk? Amazonian milk frogs that is" _Reptiles_ (June 2013) pg 18-23

- Mattison Chris (1993) "Keping And Breeding Amphibians" Sterling publishing co., inc.

- Mattison Chris (2005) "Encyclopedia of North American Reptiles And Amphibians" The Brown Reference Group plc

- Squirrel Treefrog

- Barking Treefrog

*Photo Credits*

- Cook, Will. Green tree frog (2006) Photograph. carolinanature.com/herps/greentreefrog.html

- Folt, Jason. Hyla gratiosa (2012) Photograph. buckeyeherps.blogspot.ca

- Suchynsky, Ryan. Clown tree frog vivarium (2014) png.

- Mangrove Mike CC BY 

- aristurtle1           CC BY

- Clinton & Charles Robertson CC BY

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