# Frogs & Toads > Tree Frogs >  Sick red-eyed tree frog?

## sepgundamrg

Hi this is my first time posting here and unfortunately its over a possible medical problem. I have a pair of red-eye tree frogs and unfortunately one of them looks like it may be ill. It is the smaller of the 2 frogs and while I haven't had any trouble with him before he now looks like his colors are off. It is very noticeable when he is trying to hide at night so his main pigment is dark green. When he is dark green parts of his back and his back legs are still blotched light green. I have looked at him(assumed gender) closely and the areas are not raised like other disease descriptions, but it just doesn't look right. I do know this has onyl started recently and is not his normal coloration, he also looks thin and will be transferred to his own tank for feeding. Do you guys think he is sick and in need of a vet? I really hope he is doing ok and will not need medical attention, if it helps, he normally site on a leaf that is molted dark green and light green. I can't remember the plant name but I got it from Petco as a potted terrarium plant.

If needed I can provide pictures.

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## John Clare

Hi, welcome to the forum.  It's difficult to judge from the description.  Is he eating normally for you?  Appetite changes are probably the best indicator of the health of a frog.  A photo of him would probably help too.  Hopefully Kurt can give you some expert info - he keeps and breeds this species.

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## sepgundamrg

Not sure about his eating habits as they never eat in front of me, but he does look pretty thin. Here are a few photos of him, sry for them being blurry.

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## Tingleysweet

i do not own any red eyed because i have heard numerous times there very prone to sickness and get ill very easily.. they are beautiful but i guess this is one species that belongs in nature. find an exotic vet close by and bring him.. he looks very skinny.. i would try a variety of things for him to eat.. soon if he stays healthy he will eat infront of you.. mine took a while but now when we do a cricket drop they attack them .. good luck i hope all goes well

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## Kurt

Hi,
  Welcome aboard. As John said I keep and brred this species. To see them eat in front of you is a rare event. They will only eat after dark. On occasion I have been able to see them feeding in dim light.
  I have a few years of experience with this species and I have never seen anything like this condition your frog has. I would seperate it from the other frogs, that way you can see if it is feeding. 
Just put one or two crickets in at a time. That will make it easier for you to monitor the situation better. Remember to provide water. I made a mistake many, many years ago with my very first red-eye. I put it into a little critter keeper over night to see if was eating, but I did not provide it with water. I put in two crickets, it at least ate one, but before it ate the other it died of dehydration. Lesson being red-eyes can't survive long without access to water. I once forgot my two White's in a Rubbermaid overnight and they were fine. You can't do that with a red-eye.
  It would be a good idea to see a qualified vet as soon as possible. Has there been any abnomal behavior? An skin sloughing?

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## sepgundamrg

Nope, no abnormal behavior other then it being skinny and having green splotches on its legs. I guess I will just keep a super close eye on it and take it to the vet when I get paid... Probly won't be able to afford a vet visit but I would have to lose my little guy, had him about 18 months now...

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## sepgundamrg

I got him into a hospital tank thats pretty bare, he has a nice cricket proof water dish and 3 crickets to stalk. He was in his bright green jacket when I got home because the light was on, but the spots are barely visible. I hope that after he eats he will look normal in the mornin.

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## Kurt

If the crickets are good by morning that will be a good sign.

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## sepgundamrg

Crickets are gone, and I can't see the green splotches on him, I will keep him in the hospital tank for another night before I put him back in with the others.

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## Kurt

Ok. Maybe its case of stress or maybe one of his roommates peed on him. I would keep seperate for 3 days or so, just for observation

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## sepgundamrg

> Ok. Maybe its case of stress or maybe one of his roommates peed on him. I would keep seperate for 3 days or so, just for observation


you think he got peed on?

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## Kurt

Its possible. I remember many years back at a reptile show there was a ten-gallon tank at one of the vendor's tables. It was filled with red-eyed leaf froglets and one of them had some discoloration. The vendor said one of the other frogs had peed on him. Of course in all the years I have kept red-eyes and other frogs, I have never seen this in my own collection. So who knows?

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## sepgundamrg

Ah, so maybe I'm just lucky/unlucky lol. He seems perked up which is probly because he got to eat. Hopefully in 2 days he can go back in the house.

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## Wolst21LT

I have two red eyed tree frogs with a compact fluorescent light strip,(gives off a whitish light instead of normal)and sometimes when they sit to close to it it discolors them a little bit. This obviously isnt what your frog had, but its just something to keep in mind.(if you have a similar light)

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## Greatwtehunter

Can you describe your setup? It sounds like maybe there was too much moisture and not enough ventilation.

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## sepgundamrg

Just got home from work and he is still splotchy now that his skin is darker.

My set-up is a large exo-terra upright terrarium, I can't remember what size it is but it was roughly 200 dollars when I got it around Christmas time, it was the 2nd largest available by them, the largest I could find in stores. The humidity fluctuates between 80 and 50% as the day goes on, but normally around 70%. The tank has a screen top and front opening doors with vents under the doors. The substrate is 30% leaf litter, 30% soil, and 30% coconut fiber. The bed is about 3-4 inches deep, with a 2 in drainage layer of large pebbles separated from the upper layer with window screening. 

The tank is heavily planted with miscellaneous tropical plants and bromeliads.

Oh the temperature is around 75 degrees at any given time.

That's an old picture, the plants are thicker now and the brom isn't blooming but has 2 daughter plants that are half its size. The green tree frog in the picture is living happily in my backyard, but the brown tree frog still lives with me in my room.


Edit: tank is roughly 33 us. gallons, 24in tall, 18wide, 18deep

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## Kurt

You know I hadn't even thought of ventilation. D'oh! Good ventilation is critical with treefrogs. Is the top of the enclosure glass or is it mesh?

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## sepgundamrg

> The tank has a screen top and front opening doors with vents under the doors.


its a type of mesh

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## Kurt

That should provide enough ventilation.

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## sepgundamrg

Ok, so I guess no progress on finding out whats wrong with him. At least I'm housing them properly I guess.

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## Wolst21LT

is the picture your red eyed tree frog tank? because i see other frogs in there. ive always been told to not mix different species.

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## sepgundamrg

> is the picture your red eyed tree frog tank? because i see other frogs in there. ive always been told to not mix different species.


Yes it is, in the paragraph I said that the green tree frog doesn't live there any more, but the brown one does. I should be putting him back outside soon, just hate to see him go because his personality rocks.

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## Kurt

Let me get this straight, the red-eyed is housed with other frog species?

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## sepgundamrg

Yes, a brown tree frog. When I got them over a year ago, I was not informed that it was a bad idea. Since then I have released 2 green tree frogs and am down to 2 retf and a brown tf, soon I will release the brown tree frog.

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## Wolst21LT

Dont release the frog unless they are wild caught FROM YOUR AREA. Its never a good idea to release captives, especially if it isnt native to the area in which you live.

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## Kurt

Also, they have been exposed to the red-eyes so they should not be released back into the wild, even though they may be native to the area. The blotchy appearence could have a lot to do with housing it with another species altogether. We could be  looking at a case of cross contamination and certainly a case of cross infection. 

At this point they should be sepreated by species and all frogs should see the vet, at the very least for a deworming.

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## sepgundamrg

Ok, could I use John's rubbermaid tote idea for a tree frog house?

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## Kurt

Only if it has very good ventalation.

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## Marilyn

I would increase the day temperature to 85 and keep the night temp at 75 degrees.  In nature it is not unusual to see Red Eyed Tree Frogs BASKING--yes basking--in the sun.  Sick frogs seek warmer temperatures (inducing a "fever") which triggers the frogs natural immune response.  To induce fever, raise tank temperature to 90-95 degrees for eight hours, carefully monitoring your frog for stress.  Give him the next day off, reducing the tank temperature to 85 degrees and repeat the fever on the third day, again, monitoring the frog to ensure he is tolerating the fever.  Give him the 4th day off fever and induce fever again on the 5th day.  Then maintain the 85 degree day temp and 75 degree night temp, and see how he does.  Good luck.

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## sepgundamrg

> I would increase the day temperature to 85 and keep the night temp at 75 degrees.  In nature it is not unusual to see Red Eyed Tree Frogs BASKING--yes basking--in the sun.  Sick frogs seek warmer temperatures (inducing a "fever") which triggers the frogs natural immune response.  To induce fever, raise tank temperature to 90-95 degrees for eight hours, carefully monitoring your frog for stress.  Give him the next day off, reducing the tank temperature to 85 degrees and repeat the fever on the third day, again, monitoring the frog to ensure he is tolerating the fever.  Give him the 4th day off fever and induce fever again on the 5th day.  Then maintain the 85 degree day temp and 75 degree night temp, and see how he does.  Good luck.


How should I go about raising the temp?

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## Marilyn

> How should I go about raising the temp?


Use a red heat lamp.  Direct it at the outside glass of the tank opposite the tank thermometer.  Carefully monitor until the thermometer reads 95.  Check regularly.  If you are unable to get the tank temp up to 95  place a piece of foil over half of the screen top or move the lamp slightly closer.  Be careful not to create any hot spots on the glass.  Red Eyes are notorious for getting too close to hot lamps and lights and cooking themselves.  If the Red Eye seems slightly better by day 5, wait a week and repeat the process.  Be sure to induce fever only when you will be home to monitor the entire 8-hr fever process, and check on your frog at regular intervals looking for any signs of distress.

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## sepgundamrg

> Use a red heat lamp.  Direct it at the outside glass of the tank opposite the tank thermometer.  Carefully monitor until the thermometer reads 95.  Check regularly.  If you are unable to get the tank temp up to 95  place a piece of foil over half of the screen top or move the lamp slightly closer.  Be careful not to create any hot spots on the glass.  Red Eyes are notorious for getting too close to hot lamps and lights and cooking themselves.  If the Red Eye seems slightly better by day 5, wait a week and repeat the process.  Be sure to induce fever only when you will be home to monitor the entire 8-hr fever process, and check on your frog at regular intervals looking for any signs of distress.


Any other suggestions to raise temp? unfortunately vet car payment and insurance come out of this super small check, so I will be completely wiped. Or do you suggest skipping the vet and trying this for 2 weeks?

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## Kurt

I would suggest the vet first. I have never heard of red-eyes basking, as they are an extremely nocturnal species.

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## Marilyn

> I would suggest the vet first. I have never heard of red-eyes basking, as they are an extremely nocturnal species.


It goes without saying that the vet is the BEST option. Most of us want to try something else first, which is why this forum is so helpful and useful.  Many captive amphibians are not kept warm enough during the day--and, yes, the temp should be lower at night.  Sick nocturnal frog species have been known to bask in the sun during the day.  This induces fever which activates the immune response.

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## Marilyn

The medical community is very much aware of the benefits of the human body's ability to create a fever to fight off infections and viruses.  Cold-blooded amphibians do not possess this ability and therefore sick amphibians depend upon the sun's hot rays to do this for them.

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## sepgundamrg

I should be calling the vet tomorrow to see how much a visit will cost, if it isn't too much I will take them in.

I should also add that he is looking perfectly fine now. All the discoloration is gone and he is back to a healthy weight.

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## Marilyn

> I should be calling the vet tomorrow to see how much a visit will cost, if it isn't too much I will take them in.
> 
> I should also add that he is looking perfectly fine now. All the discoloration is gone and he is back to a healthy weight.


Did you increase his tank temp up to the proper range?

If he's looking perfectly fine now, the discoloration is gone, and he's back to a healthy weight, why are you going to take him to the vet? That would be like me going to the doctor, completely fine, and telling him that I was coughing, sneezing and had a fever and sore throat last week.

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## sepgundamrg

> At this point they should be sepreated by species and all frogs should see the vet, at the very least for a deworming.


Cuz Kurt said so..... I havent been able to raise the temp either.  The discoloration slowly went away day by day as he was in quarantine and gaining weight. Could the spots have been caused by stress?

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## Marilyn

> Cuz Kurt said so..... I havent been able to raise the temp either. The discoloration slowly went away day by day as he was in quarantine and gaining weight. Could the spots have been caused by stress?


The discoloration and weight loss could definitely have been caused by stress.  Why not just get fecals tested for parasites? You don't need an appointment for that, you would just pay per fecal tested.  Some of my tanks contain multiples of the same species, ie, one tank has six Fire Bellies, another tank has several European Green Frogs and another tank has several White's Tree Frogs living together.  From time to time I will bring to the vet one stool sample from each tank and have them tested for parasites.  If one of the samples is positive for parasites, I treat all of the frogs in that particular tank with Panacur.  If one has parasites, all of his tank mates probably do, too.

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## Kurt

Keep in mind not everyone has access to or the experience to be able administer fenbendazole or metronidazole. So more often than not, a vet is needed in this situation.

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## Marilyn

> Keep in mind not everyone has access to or the experience to be able administer fenbendazole or metronidazole. So more often than not, a vet is needed in this situation.


 
Very good point, Kurt.  With my crew, it was critical that I learn to administer meds right from the get go.  My vet had me give the meds every three weeks for a toadal  :Wink:  of three doses and THEN repeat the fecals.  Getting to the ve'is office involved a two-hour drive each way, so I had a BIG incentive to learn how to handle the meds on my own. Doing it myself saved me a lot of time and money.

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## Kurt

Same here, except my vet is only 45 minutes to an hour away.

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## sepgundamrg

Would you recommend just taking in the little guy first, then maybe taking in the other 2 if the vet thinks they need it?

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## Marilyn

> Same here, except my vet is only 45 minutes to an hour away.


 
Good herp vets are very hard to come by, and even vets that claim to specialize in exotics don't have very much experience with frogs. That's why it's important to find one who is at least WILLING to treat frogs. After forming a relationship with one they usually work with you on the basics--you can overnight fecals, and they can overnight meds.  At some point you will encounter more difficult medical situations with your herps, which is why it's important to hook up with an *expert* herp vet willing to do phone consults with your local herp vet who usually welcomes the opportunity to expand his knowledge.  My herp expert is Keven Wright, DVM in Arizona. He is amazing and in addition to running his "strictly exotics" practice, he lectures all over the world and has authored books for the scientific community.

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## Kurt

Mine is Greg Mertz DVM.

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## Kurt

> Would you recommend just taking in the little guy first, then maybe taking in the other 2 if the vet thinks they need it?


Take them both at the same time.

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## sepgundamrg

Well, I cant afford a vet visit this pay period, but I did find a good home for my brown tree frog. He is now a class pet.

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## Kurt

Very good.

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## sepgundamrg

> Very good.


Cool, at least I'm doing something right -.-  Do you guys think it should be ok to re-introduce my little guy to his old home now? He looks great now and is all fattened up!

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## Tom

Not if there is with another frog species in there. Like what happened to the brown tree frog?

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## Kurt

If its just red-eyes in there, I don't see why not.

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## Marilyn

> If its just red-eyes in there, I don't see why not.


 
I would disinfect the tank first and get one token fecal to check for parasites.

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## sepgundamrg

> Not if there is with another frog species in there. Like what happened to the brown tree frog?





> Well, I cant afford a vet visit this pay period, but I did find a good home for my brown tree frog. He is now a class pet.


-.- What all needs to be done to disenfect the cage? It has a lot of plants in it and I can't even afford new substrate....

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## Marilyn

> -.- What all needs to be done to disenfect the cage? It has a lot of plants in it and I can't even afford new substrate....


 
Ten percent bleach solution, ie, 1/2 cup bleach and 4 1/2 cups water in spray bottle.  Remove frogs to critter carrier first.

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## Marilyn

> -.- What all needs to be done to disenfect the cage? It has a lot of plants in it and I can't even afford new substrate....


Switch to paper towels--cheaper and easier to keep sanitary.

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## sepgundamrg

> Switch to paper towels--cheaper and easier to keep sanitary.


Well, with paper towels I cant have my plants. I went ahead and wiped down my glass and the background before putting the little guy back in. I also cleaned his water bowel by boiling it and letting it cool before putting it back. There is a picture of my tank in the first page, I really don't want to go from that to paper towels....

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## Kurt

Well if you keep the old substrate, then there was no point in cleaning the other stuff.

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## Tom

could he boil the substrate? What is the substrate?

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## sepgundamrg

> could he boil the substrate? What is the substrate?


Coconut fiber, mulch, and soil. There is also a gravel drainage layer.

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## Tom

you could boil the gravel unless it has been sealed with anything. I don't know about putting the coconut fiber in boiling water though.

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## Kurt

Just toss the coconut, its faily cheap to replace. About $5 US a brick.

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## sepgundamrg

I know the price, I work at a pet store. Financialy right now I cant buy the coconut fiber, and the soil. I have mulch already but I cant afford the other 2. I do plan on replacing them as soon as I can as I have to replant my brom since the mother plant isn't blooming anymore.

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## Sophinx

hey, how is your frog doing?

I work with them in the lab.. have about 102. 
The best way to keep tree frogs healthy is by not making their habitat too complicated, i see that yours looks very nice, but they don't tend to do well in this sort of set up. 

The best set up for them is - 
have a peace lilly in a plant pot (medium size for the tank) in a bare tank with layered blue-roll as the ground surface, keep it very damp and have a large water bowl. They hardly ever get sick this way, as long as its cleaned out everyother day (which requires taking out the dirty blue roll and cleaning the tanksurfaces with blue-roll and water to get rid of poo/sloughing/wee (no cleaning products).
I know this isn't the best looking tank, but your frogs will be much happier, they need quite a sterile environment.

hope this has helped.

http://www.hygienedepot.co.uk/p1362-...ll-Towels.aspx
heres the blue-roll

Sophie

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## Tom

sophinx: Do they have a perfectly clean habitat in the wild? In my opinion it is best to recreate their natural habitat. Also that tank seems kinda sparsely decorated I would expect (no experience with red eyed tree frogs) that they would need more decorations to feel secure.

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## sepgundamrg

Its been a while since I last posted here, the tree frog that was sick recovered for a while then died, and my other one also got sick. I did find the cause of their illness though. I got back from a vacation a day early to find my father cooking methamphetamine in the house, that night I lost the smaller frog and had to get the larger one into clean air, he recovered within 2 days.

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## Sophinx

Tom: In the wild they only live a couple of years and probably die of disease or are eaten. It's a completely different world, and It's not realistic to recreate it in about 3ft by 3ft of space. But you can try and keep your frog as healthy as possible; you could probably add as many plants as you liked to the tank i described earlier, so they had more hiding places. 
I didn't mean to sound like i was preeching about decorative tanks, they're probably great for many amphibians, my snakes tank is equally as ornate, but  i've worked with red-eyes for a while and it's a tried and tested method, the guy who started this website has a similar set-up. 


Sophie

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## Sophinx

SepG: sorry about your frog, that's a shame. Whatever your dad was cooking sounds perfectly toxic

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## Kurt

> SepG: sorry about your frog, that's a shame. Whatever your dad was cooking sounds perfectly toxic


And quite possibly illegal!

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## Kurt

I keep my red-eye leaf frog tanks as simple as possible. I provide an artificial plant per enclosure. The adults rarely use the plant, often they sleep on the sides of the tank (as do the blue-webbed flying frogs). The froglets use them all the time. 
  I recently changed out the paper towel substrate for ground coconut. After reading John's post on the toxicity of paper towels and losing red-eye froglets for no visible reason, I came to the conclusion that the small, fragile froglets could not handle whatever chemicals that are present in paper towels. Adult frogs don't seem phased by them. 
  The transition seemed a little rough on some of them at first, but they have all adapted well and doing great so far. They look healthier/fatter. It's too soon to say whether or not I have solved the problem or not, but its looking good so far.

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## Tom

> I got back from a vacation a day early to find my father cooking methamphetamine in the house, that night I lost the smaller frog and had to get the larger one into clean air, he recovered within 2 days.


WHAT????? :EEK!:

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## Marilyn

> Nope, no abnormal behavior other then it being skinny and having green splotches on its legs. I guess I will just keep a super close eye on it and take it to the vet when I get paid... Probly won't be able to afford a vet visit but I would have to lose my little guy, had him about 18 months now...


 
Make sure his tank temperature is 80-85 degrees.  Have a fecal sample tested for parasites, and get him on panacur if he tests positive.  Good luck.  P.S. Have you introduced any new plants into the tank. One time I introduced a new rubber plant into my Red Eye tank.  I washed it off well first and put flat river stones on the dirt to keep the frogs away from any fertilizer or chemicals.  Within three months all Red Eyes were dead.

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## Marilyn

> WHAT?????


 
Methamphetimine?????  " Sounds like you AND the frogs should find a new habitat.

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## sepgundamrg

> Methamphetimine?????  " Sounds like you AND the frogs should find a new habitat.


We did, I live in Kansas City now, moved from Little Rock AR.

Kurt: My frogs are never on the glass, they are always on the plants. The one I have left is almost always on the underside of a brom leaf if the lights are on. Even when they are/where active they stayed on the plants and didn't use the glass or foam background.

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## Kurt

Really? Mine will use the plants, but prefer the sides of the tank.

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## sepgundamrg

> Really? Mine will use the plants, but prefer the sides of the tank.


Yep, they seem to love the plants. Are your plants live or fake? Mine are all live.

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## Kurt

Artificial.

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## Mihajlooo

Is it a good idea to buy some tadpole of red eye tree frogs?

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## Kurt

I don't see why not.

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## sepgundamrg

> I don't see why not.


Doesn't it take super long to turn them into froglets? If you have a cycled aquarium it couldn't hurt, but I wouldn't get them if you don't have a mature system to put them in as water impurities build up fast, especially ammonia and nitrite.

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## Mihajlooo

I ask becouse I need to travel them from Budapest to Serbia. It is a journey of 4h.

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## Tom

Are you ready to take them that far?

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## Kurt

Pack them up like fish in a nice, sealed back. If you have access to oxygen, I would put some of that in there. It will help them survive the journey. Put the bag there are in a styroform box to keep them warm.

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## Mihajlooo

I can use a plastick bow ( 1-2 liters) and there I can put 6-7 tadpoles. I don't know how to get access to oxygen, maby to use strow to pump oxygen? Which temperature thoes they need?

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## Kurt

Some pet store have oxygen tanks they use to pump up the bags they put fish in. With pure oxygen used instead of regular air, the fish or in your case, tadpoles can stay in the bags longer.

I have attached a picture I found on the internet of what I am talking about.

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## Mihajlooo

Is enought big terarium  of 60x60x70 cm for 4-5 red eye treeb frogs?

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## Tom

Deffinitly.

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## Kurt

I concur.

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## Mihajlooo

Which vitamins and mineral does they need? They need an UVB lamp or not? Can I put just a lapm for plants?

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## Kurt

Vitamins A and D3 are important, as is calcium. UVB lights are not nessisary for treefrogs, but they can be used, if only for the plants.

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## John Clare

> UVB lights are not nessisary for treefrogs, but they can be used, *if only for the plants*.


What??

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## Kurt

You can use a UVB light to grow plants, but it is not needed for the frog.

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## 1beataway

See, this is what I was taught at work. All reptiles and amphibians need UVA (at least, and having UVB and UVA is much better) bulbs, because they need to get the UV rays from the sun, which they can't do very well in a tank, and those light bulbs provide that. The UV rays helps them perform bodily functions. 

I'm pretty sure that we would deny selling any reptile or amphibian if a person had no light.

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## Kurt

Nocturnal and fossarial animals do not require UV light, because in nature they are usually avoiding it.

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## 1beataway

But even when they're hiding in shade, wouldn't they be able to get some UV rays? Like people who sit in the shade and get a sunburn?

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## Kurt

I have never known anyone that got a sunburn in the shade.

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## 1beataway

Me neither, actually. It was very late when I wrote that and I was falling asleep.  :Frog Smile:  I think I meant more how it's said you should still wear sunscreen even when in the shade. I assumed that though the frogs are hiding, there's still some benefit gained from the sun's UV rays.

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## Kurt

OK. Point being UV is not critical for most amphibians. It is, however, critical for most turtles and lizards.

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## Mihajlooo

I have a litle problem whit my REF-s. At the night they are brow? Why? Is that some kind of disease?

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## Kurt

No, after dark they darken in colour, this quite normal. So don't worry about it.

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## ngriffin2009

Wow I am glad to find these last two posts!  Mr. Big turns brow at night when creeping around for his food but then light green when sleeping on the side of his cage.  Its been freaking me out!  :EEK!:   I would hate to see him die or get sick before I can get his new set up going.

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## kiwibaby

I've been meaning to join this forum for quite a while now as it seems like a great and helpful community.

I have to say it is a real bummer finding out this issue was never solved because my frog (Kiwi if you couldn't tell by the user name) is having the same exact issue as the original poster's frog and I can say for certain a methamphetamine lab is not a factor in this case as it may have been for the OP.

So I guess at this point my next step should be taking her to a vet? Or might anyone have any ideas? I can give a pretty detailed habitat/history description and can post pictures of the issue as well if necessary.

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## Tony

Pictures and relevant info would be very helpful. Neon green spots like what were shown in the original pictures are sometimes attributed to a bacterial infection, though I have never been told the name of the bacterium involved. I have had them show up on two occasions and had excellent results from moving the affected frog to a dry quarantine and treating with a 14 day round of Baytril. I used a large kritter keeper with paper towel substrate, a live plant, and a water dish for soaking. The dish was the only water source, I did not mist during the treatment.

Here is a photo of an _A. annae_ male on the first night of treatment:


Fully recovered at the end of the 14 day treatment:

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## bshmerlie

> So I guess at this point my next step should be taking her to a vet? Or might anyone have any ideas? I can give a pretty detailed habitat/history description and can post pictures of the issue as well if necessary.


Why don't you start a new post of your own with some pics and more details of your problem and you will get more responses.  Welcome to the forum.

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## kiwibaby

Tony that looks like exactly what is happening with my frog. I will start a new thread as requested. I hope to get more info about this treatment from you there as it looks like you definitely had good results.

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