# General Topics > Food, Feeders, Live, Frozen, Culturing, etc >  Dubia Roaches/heat mat?

## Kreamcheese

I bought a 30 gallon tote from walmart and have a 30-40 gal zoo med heat mat. Can I use this heat mat on the bottom or will it melt the tote? I know the mat says not to use on plastic but I've seen plenty of people do it, just wanted to more advice.

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## Sublime

Plastic totes are usually made out of high density polyethylene and are food safe.   For common commercial grades of medium and high-density polyethylene the melting point is typically in the range 120 to 130 °C (248 to 266 °F). The melting point for average, commercial, low-density polyethylene is typically 105 to 115 °C (221 to 239 °F).  If you have a durable Rubbermaid or Sterilite tote, there's no need to worry... I've been using mine for a week now with a heat mat at 110°F on the bottom with no problems of degrading, melting, fumes on a 22 gallon with the same heat mat you're using 30-40 gallon zoo-med.  All the warning labels say that because they have to put it for the one person that puts it near something unsafe or puts it on some type of plastic that doesn't have a high melting point.  Best advantages of using plastic totes over glass tanks for breeding is: Holds humidity better, cheap, doesn't break if dropped.  You're good dude.

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## Kreamcheese

Thanks for the good advice as usual. So I had it going for most of the day and had it between 84-82. But now at night its at 76.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Thanks for the good advice as usual. So I had it going for most of the day and had it between 84-82. But now at night its at 76.


those temps are "ok" for the dubia, but will not promote good breeding. Some WONT breed at that low of a temp.

Lowest I keep mine are around 88f at night and highest can be 105 during the day. I keep them in my bathroom and heat the room with a space heater, so the temp can very pretty extreme sometimes.

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## Kreamcheese

During the day I'm able to get it between 90-98. It's much hotter at the bottom because of my heat mat and so there is gradient of heat as you go up in the tub. Still at night though it goes to the lower 80s. Can I cover up the top mesh part at night with some Styrofoam to try to insulate the heat or no? They are in my garage and I cant have them anywhere else.

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## BG

I keep them in my boiler room. The water heater is on and keeps the room at 80. Pretty soon the heat will kick on.The house is warm to begin with. I,m lucky in a way. The room the frogs are in is 77 cause its next to the boiler room. .In my room i keep the turtles, monitor,and geckos. They use lights. Oh the whites have a 25 watt blue night bulb..

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## Sublime

> During the day I'm able to get it between 90-98. It's much hotter at the bottom because of my heat mat and so there is gradient of heat as you go up in the tub. Still at night though it goes to the lower 80s. Can I cover up the top mesh part at night with some Styrofoam to try to insulate the heat or no? They are in my garage and I cant have them anywhere else.


You could try insulating it with a blanket wrapped around part of the top and sides, just make sure it's safe you know.  If you can't insulate the heat enough, you'll probably have to pick up another heat mat, preferably the internal one I was talking about putting it inside or wrapping it around the outside.

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## Kreamcheese

I ordered the control to turn up the heat on my zoo med pad. The big zoo med pad i have wrapped on the side, then have an electric back heat on the bottom. Think my temps are pretty good now. Did you try the water bottle thing?

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## Sublime

> I ordered the control to turn up the heat on my zoo med pad. The big zoo med pad i have wrapped on the side, then have an electric back heat on the bottom. Think my temps are pretty good now. Did you try the water bottle thing?


Yeah I poked a bunch of needle size holes on the top of the cap.  It doesn't seem like a lot of water has evaporated out of it, but I didn't place it directly on the heat pad which would probably help.  I put the water bottle in the corner because I don't want to put it in the middle where the heat pad is in case it fell over.  It's probably brought the moisture up a little, with the water gel crystals I have placed over the heat pad.  Still better than nothing right.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Yeah I poked a bunch of needle size holes on the top of the cap.  It doesn't seem like a lot of water has evaporated out of it, but I didn't place it directly on the heat pad which would probably help.  I put the water bottle in the corner because I don't want to put it in the middle where the heat pad is in case it fell over.  It's probably brought the moisture up a little, with the water gel crystals I have placed over the heat pad.  Still better than nothing right.


what is your humidity percentage at?

if water crystal, and misting isn't enough, you probably have way to much ventilation. try covering some holes with tape, or screen with a cloth.

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## Sublime

> what is your humidity percentage at?
> 
> if water crystal, and misting isn't enough, you probably have way to much ventilation. try covering some holes with tape, or screen with a cloth.


I really don't know yet, I need to buy a humidity gauge.  I figured it was at least 20%, I don't mist though... Don't want to make a mess in there.  I do have a good size ventilation cut out, if I find out that the humidity is escaping too fast I'll use a cloth on the screen like you said.  The temps are perfect in there though, 105-110 on the floor and 90-99 on the bottom of the egg flats going up to mid 80s moving up the crates.  I think I saw 2 brand new clutches of babies so hopefully I produce 500 out of this month.  I don't know how old the females are that the guy gave me, but 3 of them have died already.  I have about 200 adults with some baby nymphs in the mix now, he gave me mostly females too so I'm pretty stoked on the colony right now.  Is that what you do to bump the humidity a lot is misting the sides of the enclosure inside?  I want to get the most out of these adult females before they die.

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## Martin

I just want to add that in my experience, humidity is not something you need to think about, ever, when breeding dubias. I never mist, I don't have a water bowl, I don't use water crystals. The only source of water I have is the cucumber pieces that I put in there once a week. That's generally enough water for the colony. Of course, you need to adjust how much cucumber according to the population.
Also, the lid I use is basically a screen mesh, so it does not contain any humidity at all, that somehow got in there in the first place.

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## Sublime

> I just want to add that in my experience, humidity is not something you need to think about, ever, when breeding dubias. I never mist, I don't have a water bowl, I don't use water crystals. The only source of water I have is the cucumber pieces that I put in there once a week. That's generally enough water for the colony. Of course, you need to adjust how much cucumber according to the population.
> Also, the lid I use is basically a screen mesh, so it does not contain any humidity at all, that somehow got in there in the first place.


Yeah I've heard that dubias don't require substantial amounts of moisture in the air, they can do fine in drier climates.  Just a few people from experience including "MonsterPyxie" said that the higher the humidity was for them the more the dubias started to breed at a faster pace.  I know that they do require a little bit of moisture though to molt through their cycles without have an unsuccessful molt and dying off.  I'm sure there's enough humidity in mine as of now, I just wanted to get optimal range for humidity to bump up the breeding process since my temperature is perfect.  Thanks for the clarification, is your colony really thriving?  How many are you up to right now after you started out?

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## MonsterPyxie

It's pretty dry here in Colorado, so maybe thats the issue, but I wasn't seeing any breeding, and my dubia where not eating that much. Found my humidity was around 30%. So I started misting daily, water crystal, oranges, and now im around 50-60% They have started eating about 1 cup of the ground up "roach chow" in about 2 days, where before it was over a week. I also seem to notice new babies, or females with egg's hanging out there butt just about every time I look in there now, where before I didn't.

it could just be my super dry climate, but so far im seeing great results.

Mark, I only mist the sides and egg crate lightly. enough for the water to bead up on the sides, but not enough for it to run down the sides and puddle on the bottom.

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## Sublime

Oh ok, yeah my roaches seem to not eat that much roach chow.  I switched it up yesterday and made a different blend with some dry breakfast cereal for a little bit of sweetness, so hopefully they like that stuff more.  I've read dubias love sweet foods, they eat all the oranges I put in there though.  I'll try the light misting.  You also have a colony of like 1200 and mine is 200 so that's probably why I'm not expecting great results from the food being eaten really fast.  50-60% humidity is perfect, I would like to get in that range hopefully.

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## Martin

> Yeah I've heard that dubias don't require substantial amounts of moisture in the air, they can do fine in drier climates.  Just a few people from experience including "MonsterPyxie" said that the higher the humidity was for them the more the dubias started to breed at a faster pace.  I know that they do require a little bit of moisture though to molt through their cycles without have an unsuccessful molt and dying off.  I'm sure there's enough humidity in mine as of now, I just wanted to get optimal range for humidity to bump up the breeding process since my temperature is perfect.  Thanks for the clarification, is your colony really thriving?  How many are you up to right now after you started out?


I don't really have any numbers for you, but perhaps around 600. And yes,  they're breeding. I usually see one female with eggs every other day.

Sidenote about the food: I've read hundreds of different opinions on what to feed them. I just use the cheapest dog food there is and it's working do far.

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## Kreamcheese

I plan to use cat food. Any difference in nutrition between cat and dog food for the roaches?

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## Sublime

> I don't really have any numbers for you, but perhaps around 600. And yes,  they're breeding. I usually see one female with eggs every other day.
> 
> Sidenote about the food: I've read hundreds of different opinions on what to feed them. I just use the cheapest dog food there is and it's working do far.


The roach chow I made at home with a coffee grinder is: Beneful dog food, Fancy Feast dry cat food, Oats, Grape Nuts cereal.

I could add some more to the ingredients like powdered milk, etc., but I don't want to go overboard with it.  That's cool that it's working out for you though.

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## Sublime

> I plan to use cat food. Any difference in nutrition between cat and dog food for the roaches?


Cats have a much higher protein requirement then dogs, so crude protein in cat food is going to be higher than most dog foods.  Also cat food is going to have a lot more meat products in the ingredients including essential vitamins that dogs don't need or can convert.  Dog food will have higher grain products with the addition of meat and plant products.

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## Kreamcheese

So which do you think is better? Just a mix of both? 50/50? I mixed some oats with the cat food.

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## Sublime

> So which do you think is better? Just a mix of both? 50/50? I mixed some oats with the cat food.


Yeah a mix.  The addition of the oats your adding is good too.  The next batch you make, try adding a whole grain dry breakfast cereal like Grape Nuts for a little bit of sweetness.  They love sweets.

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## MonsterPyxie

I would account there eating so rapid to the numbers I have, but there is a big difference in the rate they eat it now that I have the humidity under control.

My roach chow is a higher end catfood (cant remember the brand.), oats, and a small bit of sweet cereal, ground up pretty fine. They come crawling out the egg crate in full day light for the stuff.  :Big Grin:  They like oranges even more.

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## Sublime

Haha nice, yeah oranges are definitely their top priority to finish.

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## Kreamcheese

Saw a video of somebody feeding them banana baby food. The liquid/pudding consistency stuff. Have you guys ever done that?

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## Martin

I'm no no means an expert, so you're probably better off listening to the more experienced on this topic, but I've read that cat food is not that great. Supposedly, there's a too high concentration of... something, that's bad for the roaches. Then again, this is what I've read on the good ol' Internet, and I can't say if it's true or not. Just got me cautions enough to use dog food instead.

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## Sublime

> I'm no no means an expert, so you're probably better off listening to the more experienced on this topic, but I've read that cat food is not that great. Supposedly, there's a too high concentration of... something, that's bad for the roaches. Then again, this is what I've read on the good ol' Internet, and I can't say if it's true or not. Just got me cautions enough to use dog food instead.


It's probably Taurine, cats definitely need a high concentration of this since they can not get it from other amino acids building blocks like humans and dogs can do.  Taurine deficiency in cats can cause blindness, dis functioning throughout if not fed on a fed on a regular basis.  Not sure if Taurine intake for roaches is bad or not, but never heard of reports saying people's roaches or pets have died from intake of using high protein cat food.  Breeders that sell online recommend the stuff for its high protein value, low fat compared to other products you could be feeding them.  Just get good quality cat food, should be all good.

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## steest

I know its kind of off topic, but what really will help regulate temps is Heat Tape! I just ordered some from.... Bigappleherp? I think.. and it looks perfect, and is cheaper than heat mats! You put a thermometer sensor on the tape, and it regulates itself, up to 120 degrees. 

I needed to get something other than a heatpad because I bought a cheap one off amazon and it shuts off for no apparent reason, and does not get very hot. Generally unreliable. But I have been doing some reading and alot of ppl say this is the way to go

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## Sublime

@steest.  Thank you!  I've been looking for heat tape everywhere on the internet!  No luck... Just found the stuff you're talking about on Bigapple and is a very reasonably priced.  I already have a rheostat so I can control the heat that way.  I have a zoo-med uth heater placed on the bottom right now, but when winter comes up I want additional heating for the dubias.  This stuff is definitely the best option for placing heat around for the dubias, just couldn't find it and had to buy the zoo-med uth for now.  A lot of heat pads you have to specifically look for if they have a thermostat that shuts them off after a certain temp or are timed to shut off.  Look for the ones that say for 24 hour use or just buy a reptile heat pad so that you know it's going to be on 24/7.  You don't have to now though, because of heat tape.  +1.

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steest

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## steest

Oh no problem Sublime, glad I can finally help you for once!!! 

One thing to not, not that it matters too much, I called bigapple and they said that using a rheostat with heat tape voids the warranty for some reason... Just something to think about.. I'm sure it will work fine though!

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## Sublime

Oh ok, thanks for the heads up.  My rheostat doesn't handle large amounts of wattage (Won't get hotter than 110F), they probably just say that for the people that are trying to get it above the heat limit.

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## steest

Wait, i might be completly off-base, but if your rheostat does not handle large amounts of wattage, wouldnt that be a hazard.. (i have no idea about these things haha)

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## Sublime

The higher wattage something can handle = the hotter it can get.  My rheostat is designed by Zoo-Med, therefore they didn't intend for it to get to a unsafe temperature for your herps or in my case dubias  :Stick Out Tongue: .

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## MonsterPyxie

guys, be VERY VERY careful with heattape. It can get out of control.

i used it to heat my reticulated pythons, and bermese pythons, they where all on a temperature controller. Not sure if the probe slipped off the heat tape or what, but the heat tape burned a hole right through there container (high density tupperware, rated at around 250+*, and melted the carpet under the stone it was sitting on.

might have just been my bad experience, but I'm not really willing to get near the stuff at the moment. Something that can get that hot is not going near my critters.

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## Sublime

Oh damn, that is a bad experience with heat tape.  Where did you buy the heat tape from because I've never seen it anywhere else besides this Flex Watt brand?  I know the one being sold on Bigapple doesn't elevate past 120F at maxed out wattage.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Oh damn, that is a bad experience with heat tape.  Where did you buy the heat tape from because I've never seen it anywhere else besides this Flex Watt brand?  I know the one being sold on Bigapple doesn't elevate past 120F at maxed out wattage.


I got it from a reptile show from a reputable breeder. Its the type you can cut to size, and attach the power cord too. 

like this:
âºFlex Watt 11" heat tape reptile cage heater warmerâ | eBay

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## Sublime

> I got it from a reptile show from a reputable breeder. Its the type you can cut to size, and attach the power cord too. 
> 
> like this:
> â–ºFlex Watt 11" heat tape reptile cage heater warmerâ—„ | eBay


Yeah, that's the same stuff I was going to buy.  I can't believe the burned through the whole tub and carpet, that definitely doesn't pass in my house.  I'm not risking fire or endangering my precious dubias lol.  It doesn't have a lot of wattage unless you use an extensive length, that's weird that it got that hot for you.  Did you ever contact the seller and describe your problem.  I would kind of like to know how it got that hot, besides the fact of the thermostat or rheostat you were using did not regulate it.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Yeah, that's the same stuff I was going to buy.  I can't believe the burned through the whole tub and carpet, that definitely doesn't pass in my house.  I'm not risking fire or endangering my precious dubias lol.  It doesn't have a lot of wattage unless you use an extensive length, that's weird that it got that hot for you.  Did you ever contact the seller and describe your problem.  I would kind of like to know how it got that hot, besides the fact of the thermostat or rheostat you were using did not regulate it.


Im still using the same rheostat to this day, so its not that. IDK how it could have got that hot honestly. only thing that comes to mind is the temperature built from the big heavy bin trapping the heat or something.

i never contacted the person, they still sponsor our local reptile show, and is the main vendor there. I think I spent like $4 or $6 on it.

much rather spend $30 on a zoo med large mat, then risk the animal at this point.

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## Sublime

Yeah definitely, that's what I did.

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## steest

Did you put electrical tape on the side that you cut? Since it is made to also be able to be longer increments. If you cut it the ends still have current running through them, which could have led to your problem. Thats what they say in the tutorial anyway haha.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Did you put electrical tape on the side that you cut? Since it is made to also be able to be longer increments. If you cut it the ends still have current running through them, which could have led to your problem. Thats what they say in the tutorial anyway haha.


I am unsure as this was 2 years ago. The vendor/breeder set up the tape when you bought it. Asked how much you wanted and she attached the powercord.

i'm pretty sure it was a skinny strip, about 3-4" wide, and the powercord was attached to one end.

I don't remember them sealing the side they cut in any way.

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## steest

Ohh, at bigapple they said that you need to run electrical across wherever it is cut, because there it is exposed, and can short circuit.

 Well actually I'll just bring the video here haha! at about 6:45 he talks about electrical tape..

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## MonsterPyxie

thanks for posting, I will check it out when I get home from work.

It could have been something that simple. I plan on using the tape style stuff when I get a "rack" to house the new snakes im getting. But when i do...... I will be very careful.

I still have the bin that has the hole burnt in it, sitting in my garage, I could snap a picture, its a big nasty hole!

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## Sublime

Yeah this tape is widely used for python racks for it's flexibility and low cost.  I obviously want to use it for different purposes though because I'm not into snakes.  Rob save your money for more pixies or pacmans please, lol.  I want to see more frog collection.  Not snake collection.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Yeah this tape is widely used for python racks for it's flexibility and low cost.  I obviously want to use it for different purposes though because I'm not into snakes.  Rob save your money for more pixies or pacmans please, lol.  I want to see more frog collection.  Not snake collection.


haha, I want more pyxies, but I'm looking for breeding projects right now. Boa's are really peaking my interest!

I did find a 55gal lid for $15 that I bought for the 55gal tank I already have. Going to use that for the Pyxie. So i'm making strides for the good of the pyxie's haha.

Debating if its safe to house a few of them together in the 55gal like a few other members have done.

then again a half grown male is probably too big for a 55gal

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## Sublime

You could try housing them together when they're not babies.  Around juvenile-adult size and age.  Reason being, the babies have been known to be more cannibilistic then older ones.  As long as they're being well fed, same size, keep a close eye on them and you should be fine once they adjust to each other.  I should note that you should have them in a quarantine tank for a period of time before moving them both in together.  A half grown male is definitely not too big for a 55 gal, not even a grown one.  That is plenty big for several, they will use all the room you give them.  Burrowing, large water source, and what not.  What are the dimensions on the 55 gal?  Good to know you're making an attempt at adding pixies to the collection  :Stick Out Tongue: .  An adult male with an adult female is a little risky because of the size difference, unless it's breeding season and you're making an attempt to breed them. 

I don't know, get someone elses opinion or experience if they've housed a female and a male together.  I just know they should be relatively the same size if you're going to house them together so they don't make an attempt to make a meal out of one.

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## MonsterPyxie

It's a old 55gal. it was made in like 1987 I think the sticker on the side says. The glass is super thick, and it has to weigh close to 180lbs. I would have to measure it, but i'm pretty sure its a typical 55gal size.

i was thinking of having about 6" of dirt to burrow, and then on the other side 6" of water, separate the dirt and water with acrylic, and also have some sort of insert that I can divide the tank if need be. would also like live plants, and water plants, with fish if possible. Make it really nice looking to show off  :Smile: 

I'll worry about hosing them together later. thats a ways down the road, but I wouldn't do it unless I thought it was safe for them. Wouldn't wanna find one hanging out the mouth of another!

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## Sublime

A 180 lbs?  **** dude, I ain't lifting that.  That's no joke, lol durability right there.  Never heard of people doing it with acrylic, sure it would probably do the same job.  I've seen people using plexiglass or glass though.  Just make sure when you do a divider like that for half land and water that the edge of the acrylic or whatever you're using is beveled or rounded so it doesn't hurt the frog.  Live plants couldn't be planted directly in the soil, these guys will just burrow it out (Need to be potted).  Fish choice is also really important if you decide to do that.  Yeah all that sounds cool.  55 gal is huge for one pixie, although I'm sure he or she would love the extra space.

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## Kreamcheese

Alright guys, got some of my roaches, ordered a bunch more. I have a neck/back heater on the bottom, it's something like 12" by 8". Then I have 2 50-60 gal zoo med heat pads wrapped around the sides of my 30 gallon bin. Both of the zoo med heaters are on the zoo med rheostat on max. The bottom of the bin is very warm from the heat mat on the bottom. But my temp says 75 for my bin. What can i do? Like I said I cant keep them anywhere but the garage. Can I have a heat lamp hovering a few inches above the metal mesh cut out I have on top? Feel like no matter what I do I cant get the right temp.

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## Sublime

What are you using to check the temperature?  All those heat pads should be plenty enough, try setting the bin above the ground floor in the garage.  Like on a table or something with a blanket underneath so the heat doesn't escape underneath.  If you are using like a gauge that's planted on the side of a bin, that's not going to work.. You need to measure the flat bottom where most of the heat is to get an accurate temperature, the heat dissipates fast.  How big is the cut out on the top of your bin?  Does it take up the whole top?  Yeah you can use a heat lamp hovering over, but that shouldn't be necessary.  I can only keep mine in the garage and I live about an hour from you.  They're on a card table off the ground with a 30-40 gal zoo-med uth on the bottom and that's it with a zoo-med rheostat set almost to max.  Temperature should be way higher for you than me... doesn't make sense.

Update me with some pics of your setup, by the way your neck/back heater does it have a thermostat that shuts it off after a certain temp?  Does your wall outlet not support the amount of wattage you're using an have a socket limit?

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## steest

It would also suggest against the heat lamp, as lights really make them skittish, (more than normal haha) and if you want them to breed the best i would say no to heat lamp. Another thing that I saw which looked kinda cool are heat ropes, and I have heard that they are pretty effective at pumping out good heat. 

Also another thing is how big is your bin? Dubia actually prefer to be cramped, for better breeding it is advised to not keep them in huge bins, unless you have thousands. I moved my dubias from a 35 gallon, into a 20 gallon. It is then easier to heat, because there is less area in the bin.

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## Sublime

That's true, I think invertebrates are sensitive to red light or uv light.  Red light being an infrared heat night lamp, so don't use that or any other type of light source.  The minute I pop open the bin they get so agitated and run for cover.  Yes, dubias are a social roach and prefer to be crammed, thus saving you room and money.  What are these heat ropes you are talking about steest?  Good information by the way to help him out.

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## Kreamcheese

Mark, tomorrow I will post up pics of my setup so you can see what I'm dealing with. I have them up on a wooden desk and there is a blanket under the bin, which the back heater is sitting on. The top cut out is about 6" by 10", and I covered up some of it to try and keep the heat in. No worries for a socket limit, and the back heater doesn't have a regulator/auto shut off. Also if needed I'll buy an 18 gallon or even smaller container until I have a well established colony. It does seem like there is WAY TOO much room right now. Granted I only have about 80 in there right now, but I do have another 400 ish coming soon. I still think a smaller container might be better, and much easier to get to an ideal temp.

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## Sublime

Actually a black (purple light) for general heating purposes would be fine.  I don't think it would disturb them since this light spectrum isn't visible day or night.

@Andrew, that is very strange that your temperature is not getting hot enough.  Everything you said sounds fine, except what do you check the temperature of heat with?  You might need to build an insulated box in a shelving unit since where ever you're putting it is not holding the heat at all.

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## steest

Well, actually I have heard the opposite, that red light is actually ok.


This guy has to keep his dubia out in the garage, and this is how he did it, kind of overboard, but still some good ideas.
http://www.dendroboard.com/forum/foo...pic-heavy.html

Another great idea i have seen is that people will actually put foil insulation in the bins, so that heat is not lost through the plastic. 

As for the heat rope, you can buy it at a whole ton of different herp suppliers. Since I bought my stuff through bigapple, I will link them.. Actually I will just have him tell you hahaha, it looks very useful and has many applications, it will for sure be my next purchase!





Here is a good overview for anyone about who isnt familiar 
Breeding Blaptica Dubia
*
HERE IS ALL THE WAYS YOU HEAT YOUR ROACHES*
Heating Roach Enclosures


^^^ CHECK IT OUT!

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## Kreamcheese

Using an electronic temp/humidity gauge. I do have two wall mounted gauges but figure those are trash anyways. I place the electronic gauge on the bottom above the back heater spot and I'm getting about 84 at night. other side where there is food and water crystals is about 75 at night.

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## Sublime

Nice find steest.  Foil insulation is a good idea, never would of though of that.  If it's on the ground though, doesn't it bother the roaches?  Thanks man for showing me, good guides for newcomers approaching dubia breeding.

@Andrew, I was just going to suggest using internal heat mats in the bin instead of outside for your case.  Heat Tape would be a good purchase and is flexible enough to make it work.  Just hook it up to the rheostat.

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## Kreamcheese

That link that steest put makes me want to try the "bin inside a larger bin" idea. Should I do the foil like he did or just attach my heaters to the bottom of the inner bin? I think that would be really good at containing the heat in my cold garage.

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## Sublime

My mistake, I read the guide wrong.  The foil insulation is in the bottom of the outside bin, I'm on my phone so it's hard to tell perspective wise.  Cool guide none the less.

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## steest

@mark This guy here did it, and I dont think it would bother them, also, this stuff would make it really nice and toasty in there. You can buy it at menards... Idk if they have menards everywhere, but if not Lowe's or home depot.
Here is what I was thinking. Bearded Dragon . org - Website is not Temporarily Offline 

edit:wow as soon as I post it the site goes down for maintenance


@andrew I believe why he put the foil down because aluminum is such a good conductor of energy (heat in this instance) that it in effect makes his heating pads larger and covers more surface area. Another Great thing about the double tote that I can see is that if a roach gets out (which would never happen because they cant climb, still im paranoid cause I rent a aptment) It would actually have another whole tote for them to go through. Also if you were pulling them out and accidentally dropped one outside of their bin, it would just fall in the larger bin.

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## Kreamcheese

Yeah I can't believe I never thought of that idea. So simple yet clearly effective. I'm gonna have to mess around a bit with the heat mats cause I'm assuming 2 50-60 gallon UTH and a back heater is far too much for an insulated 18 gallon  :Stick Out Tongue:

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## steest

Haha now you would have the opposite problem!  :Big Grin:

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## Kreamcheese

Hard to think that I could ever have that problem! Thank you though for linking me to that.

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## Kreamcheese

come to think of it, I may put the back heater on the bottom. Then wrap the two UTH around the sides. I'll be able to adjust the heat on the two UTH with my rheostat and be able to get my temps just right. WHOOO finally think I've found a solution haha

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## steest

No problem, I am seriously just as obsessed with roaches now as my frog haha!

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## Kreamcheese

I just got mine and that's how I feel haha. I want them to thrive and I think I check on them more than my frogs. I need to take it easy!

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## steest

I know its so hard they are just so interesting. I once saw the mating dance that the males do, and I was like..... Wait...what... what is going on!!!

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## Sublime

> I know its so hard they are just so interesting. I once saw the mating dance that the males do, and I was like..... Wait...what... what is going on!!!


It's better than the Kama Sutra in my opinion.

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## MonsterPyxie

Andrew, make sure to post some pictures up of your set up!

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## Kreamcheese

Well I was going to post up pics of my current setup, but since I'm changing it all tomorrow I'll post pics after it's redone.

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## MonsterPyxie

> Well I was going to post up pics of my current setup, but since I'm changing it all tomorrow I'll post pics after it's redone.


your plan sounds good, im sure it will work out much better!

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