# Frogs & Toads > African Bullfrogs >  italian pixie owner ;)

## arci90

hi guys, im italian, so im sorry for my bad english  :Wink: 
i write to u cause in italy these frogs are not so common pet  :Big Grin: 

ok, i start to show you my pixie, my pixie's house etc etc

- Pixie's house: 65x45x45 = 131 lt = 33 gallon
i use coco husk and a box with water ( i change water everyday)

- Heating: i use a heating pad of 40w, but i read on this forum its a wrong choice...right? (in italy all says lamp are wrong cause they dry frog's skin)
do u advise me to change the pad with a lamp? if yes, how many watts? i usually have 68' in winter in my home...

- fodd: my frog eats everything...pinkies, circkets,croakrocheas...i use calcium and vitamin D3...i dont use a UVB lamp.

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## mafoo

welcome to the forum! from what i know the coco husk is bad as it causes impaction and you should switch that out for coconut fiber thats eco earth or plantation soil as thats the way to go with these kind of frogs. i dont know if the heating pad is bad but id change it out with a 50w light red light and keep that on all day. for the lamps drying out your frogs skin just make sure the humidity is up there at about 80% and itll be fine as long as u dont go over 50w. if u havent already id first buy a thermometer for your frogs tank and if the tempeture is anyware from 77-90 u can keep the heat pad on. what your feeding him is great just dont feed to many pinkies and id only feed 1 or 2 a month. crickets and the roaches are great and if u wanna add more variety u can also feed nightcrawlers/earthworms since they work as a staple to. hopefully all this stuff will be easy to get and do for you since i dont know if they have diffrent stuff there in italy. if u need anymore help just ask on here and im sure u will get a good answer to your question!

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## arci90

ty for the answer! i was wrong, i dont have coco husk, i have the one u said (coconut fiber)!

so u advise me to buy a 50w light...why red light? i have to link the lamp with a thermostat? or not need?

i have another question...why in this picture http://www.frogforum.net/members/jim...-dsc-0157.html there are no coconut fiber, no earth but only bricks and water? its good for pixies?

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## mafoo

the reason i think a red light is best is just to save hastle of heating the tank at night as u can leave the red light on all the time. it makes things alot easier when your gone for a day or two and wont be able to turn the lights out. i wouldnt bother linking the lamp to the thermostat as long as the tempeture is good in the tank. just buy a digital thermometer with a probe from a pet store and make sure the tempeture is anywhere from 77-90.

 for the bricks in that picture i got no clue about it. i dont think its too good as pyxies like to burrow and they wouldnt be able to then but im not sure since alot of people use an all water setup with just things to climb up on to get out of the water like that. hopefully somebody who knows more will come in and help you out there since itd be really easy to setup and change out.

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## arci90

> the reason i think a red light is best is just to save hastle of heating the tank at night as u can leave the red light on all the time. it makes things alot easier when your gone for a day or two and wont be able to turn the lights out. i wouldnt bother linking the lamp to the thermostat as long as the tempeture is good in the tank. just buy a digital thermometer with a probe from a pet store and make sure the tempeture is anywhere from 77-90.
> 
>  for the bricks in that picture i got no clue about it. i dont think its too good as pyxies like to burrow and they wouldnt be able to then but im not sure since alot of people use an all water setup with just things to climb up on to get out of the water like that. hopefully somebody who knows more will come in and help you out there since itd be really easy to setup and change out.


ok...so my setup is better  :Wink: 

But about lamp...i really dont like red light, i think is not realistic...

can i use a ceramic lamp? it should make warm but no light...right? and if yes, how many watts? or u think ceramic lamp do less warm then light lamp?

ps: its a few nights, i hear my frog croaking...it means hes a male? or also female pixie frog croaks in the evening?

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## mafoo

well the frogs dont mind the red light but if you dont like it im sure a ceramic lamp will work to, id go 50w to for that. just to be sure though since it could be diffrent when u go buy it at the pet store ask what watts the light should be to get it to 77-90. pet stores usualy dont know much about there animals but most of the time they got a decent idea of the wattage, just make sure its not to much higher/lower then 50w.

croaking is a definate sign of a male! congratz!

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## arci90

> well the frogs dont mind the red light but if you dont like it im sure a ceramic lamp will work to, id go 50w to for that. just to be sure though since it could be diffrent when u go buy it at the pet store ask what watts the light should be to get it to 77-90. pet stores usualy dont know much about there animals but most of the time they got a decent idea of the wattage, just make sure its not to much higher/lower then 50w.
> 
> croaking is a definate sign of a male! congratz!


ok...50w for a ceramic lamp is minimum? 75 is better? 60?  :Big Grin:  ceramic lamps do more or less warm that infrared lamps? or its the same?

and about gender...are u sure female dont croak at all?

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## mafoo

50w is just a basic guideline to go by since for most lights over 50w will hurt the frogs eyes, but since your using a ceramic light that isnt an issue but just go around 50w. 75w seems a bit to much, but i dont know a whole lot about lights to be honest. i think they give the same warmth. only males will croak, i know that for sure. u definately got a male, hope you wanted/didnt mind one!

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## arci90

> 50w is just a basic guideline to go by since for most lights over 50w will hurt the frogs eyes, but since your using a ceramic light that isnt an issue but just go around 50w. 75w seems a bit to much, but i dont know a whole lot about lights to be honest. i think they give the same warmth. only males will croak, i know that for sure. u definately got a male, hope you wanted/didnt mind one!


and for u is better a infrared lamp or a ceramic one? 

yep, i hope he's a male  :Big Grin:  :Big Grin:

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## mafoo

> and for u is better a infrared lamp or a ceramic one? 
> 
> yep, i hope he's a male


it doesnt really matter what light you go for as long as u keep lights on during the day so it stimulates a day and night cycle. and i geuss its no longer hope hes a male!

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## arci90

> it doesnt really matter what light you go for as long as u keep lights on during the day so it stimulates a day and night cycle. and i geuss its no longer hope hes a male!


ok..i bought a ceramic lamp 60w...i removed my heating pad and now im waiting to stabilize my temps...

i have another question...how many mice has to eat in a month?

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## mafoo

the maximum amount you can feed mice safely is about 1 appropriately sized mouse every 2 weeks. you dont have to feed it mice if you dont like though, there just to create some variety and possibily a bit of fun for the owner. if your feeding mice past the fuzzy stage make sure there frozen and thawed since live mice can injure the frog

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## GRABibus

Ciao ragazzo !  :Smile: 

I use this 50W spot :

Exo Terra : Daylight Basking Spot

For the day, it creates hot spot at 31°C and an average temperature of 27C° in my tank (Cold spot at 24°C).

Of course it decreases humidity in the tank, but the most important thing is to have a permanently humid substrate (Coco fiber is prefect).

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## arci90

> Ciao ragazzo ! 
> 
> I use this 50W spot :
> 
> Exo Terra : Daylight Basking Spot
> 
> For the day, it creates hot spot at 31°C and an average temperature of 27C° in my tank (Cold spot at 24°C).
> 
> Of course it decreases humidity in the tank, but the most important thing is to have a permanently humid substrate (Coco fiber is prefect).


 :Wink:  si tu parle italien je peux parler un petit peu francais aussi  :Wink:  je rigole

i bought a ceramic lamp cause it has no light...i want to let my frog with natural light coming from my windows room...i read that white light can annoy frog's eyes...so i bought the Repta Cera Heat of 60w...it seems work good...

ps: about feeding...my frog now can eat mice...if he eat twice a month (i mean mice), i have to put calcium on insects during the month? or 2 mice a month give to my frog all calcium needed?

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## GRABibus

:Smile: 

Ceramic lamp is really not advised.
It will decrease a lot humidity rate and you will have to be very careful to maintain, at least, your substrate wet.

I think that the ideal solution is a heating cable (With sufficient power to get the right temps) fixed on the sides of the tank.
Then it will decrease less the humidity than a spot and the other advantage is that you can manage temps by plugging the cable on a thermostat.
Then you can give natural light or "Non heating light".

I do this with my pacman frog (50W heating cable in a 30x30x30) and the light is provided through a Reptiglo 2.0 UVB 13W from Exo Terra.

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## arci90

> Ceramic lamp is really not advised.
> It will decrease a lot humidity rate and you will have to be very careful to maintain, at least, your substrate wet.
> 
> I think that the ideal solution is a heating cable (With sufficient power to get the right temps) fixed on the sides of the tank.
> Then it will decrease less the humidity than a spot and the other advantage is that you can manage temps by plugging the cable on a thermostat.
> Then you can give natural light or "Non heating light".
> 
> I do this with my pacman frog (50W heating cable in a 30x30x30) and the light is provided through a Reptiglo 2.0 UVB 13W from Exo Terra.


mmm...its late..i bought a ceramic lamp, and now my temps is stable at 25,5 C° during the day....during the night i turn off my lamp, and i have 21 C°...

btw my terrarium isnt much dry...if i nebulize twice a day is good...

another question  :Frown:  i made a mistake  :Frown:  i bouhgt 3 mice and i gave her in 3 near day...(thursday,friday and saturday)...is this a big problem?

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## arci90

i looked another thing...i dont know if it can be usefull to say the gender....yesterday, while my frog was eating a mouse, i saw 2 small tooth in his/her mandible...

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## arci90

> i looked another thing...i dont know if it can be usefull to say the gender....yesterday, while my frog was eating a mouse, i saw 2 small tooth in his/her mandible...


someone can answer me  :Frown: ?

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## GRABibus

What were the sizes of the mices ?
What is the size and age of your frog ?

If it is a young frog, it's better to feed with crickets, locusts, roaches, nightcrawlers.
Add some calcium dust sometimes and some calcium dust + vit D3 (More rarely for the vit D3, which can be dangerous for the frog if given in too hig quantity).
You can give some little baby mouses also. But insects and nightcrawlers are the best food according to me.

When your frog is adult, you can give adulty mouses.

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## arci90

> What were the sizes of the mices ?
> What is the size and age of your frog ?
> 
> If it is a young frog, it's better to feed with crickets, locusts, roaches, nightcrawlers.
> Add some calcium dust sometimes and some calcium dust + vit D3 (More rarely for the vit D3, which can be dangerous for the frog if given in too hig quantity).
> You can give some little baby mouses also. But insects and nightcrawlers are the best food according to me.
> 
> When your frog is adult, you can give adulty mouses.


mice were about 4-5cm (without tale)
i bought my frog 2 months ago...now my frog is about 8cm...

why d3 can be dangerous? what are its negative effects?

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## GRABibus

Too much D3 vit can damaged their digestive systems, especially the kidneys.
But, D3 vit is necessary to help in fixing calcium on bones.

D3 can be brought by UVB also...But usually, we don't give UVB's to our frogs in terrariums.

So, what I do, is that I dust with only calcium 1 insect per week and I dust with calcium + vit D3 1 to 2 insects per month.

Could you post some pictures of your frog ?

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## arci90

> Too much D3 vit can damaged their digestive systems, especially the kidneys.
> But, D3 vit is necessary to help in fixing calcium on bones.
> 
> D3 can be brought by UVB also...But usually, we don't give UVB's to our frogs in terrariums.
> 
> So, what I do, is that I dust with only calcium 1 insect per week and I dust with calcium + vit D3 1 to 2 insects per month.
> 
> Could you post some pictures of your frog ?


i try post some picture...these pics are very bad...tomorrow ill try doing better

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## GRABibus

If you want to see my Pyxie frog, it is here :

http://www.frogforum.net/african-bul...-bullfrog.html

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## arci90

hi guys  :Wink:  i have others questions  :Wink: 

1) is better a wood or glass tank for a pixie?

2) today my frog was wondering all over the tank...my pixie jumped a lot to try going out the tank (and she slams always  :Big Grin: )...usually she stays in digs all day, but today not...is this a positive or negative thing?

3) i am a bit scared of take my frog in hands... :Frown:  can someone make a video? a sort of "how to take a pixie" and post it in this thread...i thank a lot  :Big Grin:

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## arci90

up please

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## falconez

Well,I'll try to answer:
1) Glass is easier to mantain clean and disinfected whenever you'll need it,wood would retain more humidity(humidity+heat=mold )
2) Difficult to answer,maybe he/she's wandering searching for different temps and/or humidity...how are they?
3) ABF is maybe one of the frogs (if not the most) "handable" (when needed of course); just take care to get him by the back and not showing your hand in his front (or,worst,dangling your fingers...but I'm sure you won't be that silly  :Smile: )

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## arci90

> Well,I'll try to answer:
> 1) Glass is easier to mantain clean and disinfected whenever you'll need it,wood would retain more humidity(humidity+heat=mold )
> 2) Difficult to answer,maybe he/she's wandering searching for different temps and/or humidity...how are they?
> 3) African Bullfrog is maybe one of the frogs (if not the most) "handable" (when needed of course); just take care to get him by the back and not showing your hand in his front (or,worst,dangling your fingers...but I'm sure you won't be that silly )


1) ok...i have now an exo terra 65x45x45...if my frog is a male? is there an exo terra appropriate?
2) its all ok, temps is 24 in cold area and 27-28 in hot one. umidity 70%
3) mmm...the frog doesnt try to jump out to me if i take?

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## GRABibus

1) If it is a male, it is definitely too small. Even for a female, it should be a minimum...
2) Temps are ok.
3) Take the frog by the back. It won't jump. Don't show your hand above or in front of the frog.

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## arci90

> 1) If it is a male, it is definitely too small. Even for a female, it should be a minimum...
> 2) Temps are ok.
> 3) Take the frog by the back. It won't jump. Don't show your hand above or in front of the frog.


ok, thanks for all answers  :Wink:  but i have another question...to hold a pixie frog, is better a real terrarium (with right air circulation) or an aquarium tank is also good?

and, does Exo terra has a good terrarium for a pixie male?

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## falconez

A real terrarium would be better for air circulation;in my case,I only had an acquarium and I keep my ABF in it having an open (but meshed) lid I built by myself and the situation is not bad at all.

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## GRABibus

The problem of Exo Terra, is that you can only put a depth of 14cm maximum of substrate, even for a 90x45x45.
If you want your frog to estivate (2 months per year for example), and if it is a male, it will not be sufficient.
This is why  I think Exo Terra's are better if it is a female...

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## arci90

> A real terrarium would be better for air circulation;in my case,I only had an acquarium and I keep my African Bullfrog in it having an open (but meshed) lid I built by myself and the situation is not bad at all.


mmm i prefere buy something ready...  :Wink:  (ps: wow un italiano su sto forum, grande!)




> The problem of Exo Terra, is that you can only put a depth of 14cm maximum of substrate, even for a 90x45x45.
> If you want your frog to estivate (2 months per year for example), and if it is a male, it will not be sufficient.
> This is why  I think Exo Terra's are better if it is a female...


i saw this exo terra 90x45x45 and it sounds good....estivation is necessary? a frog can survive good also without estivation?

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## falconez

If stabulation parameters are good and stable,maybe the frog won't estivate simply 'cos she won't need it.In the wild estivation is a behavior due to long term hot & dry...so,in captivity,there would not be that need.
(P.S.:ciao,sono su questo forum da un po' perchè in America la Pyxie è molto più allevata e conosciuta che da noi,quindi,se vuoi imparare...a presto  :Smile:  )

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## arci90

ok...thanks for all answers

(si infatti ho notato, sui forum italiani consigliano tutti i tappetini riscaldanti, invece mi trovo molto meglio con la lampada...mi manderesti un pm con tutti i dati del tuo terrario e della tua pixie? cosi giusto per scambiarci qualche info  :Wink:  grazie)

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## arci90

guys, another question...

my frog stays a lot of time in his dig, he stays always in substrate (except for feeding)...my frog goes in water dish only in the evening and probably only to make poop...its good?

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## pyxieBob

yup that is 100% normal. they almost entirely terrestrial animals. Totally normal behavior. I don't even keep water dishes in any of my Pyxi frogs enclosures 


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?asv2k1

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## GRABibus

Mine goes often under substrate (Even with high humidity and usual temperatures).
I keep the water dish, because mine always makes its poops inside : it helps to keep the sustrate more clean on a longer period.

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## arci90

> Mine goes often under substrate (Even with high humidity and usual temperatures).
> I keep the water dish, because mine always makes its poops inside : it helps to keep the sustrate more clean on a longer period.


ok...its normal  :Wink: 

btw i see a lot of pixie standing always in water...

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## arci90

hi guys i have a question: which is the best forum about chamaleon? (a friend has a furcifer pardalis)

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## arci90

> hi guys i have a question: which is the best forum about chamaleon? (a friend has a furcifer pardalis)


up please  :Wink:

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## arci90

guys?

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## arci90

if nobody wants to reply me i make another question  :Frown: 

what do u think about use of UVB lamps for pixies? its totally useless? or maybe good?

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## GRABibus

UVB can be useful because with UVB, the frog can fix calcium in a better way (No necessary to add D3 in food).
But, if UVB lamp is too strong, it can be dangerous because their skin is sensitive.
If you add a UVB lamp, you have to be careful that it will not warm the frog.

Just use a normal lamp with UVA, and add calcium + D3 to food.

Calcium => 1 to 2 times a week
Calcium + D3 => 2 times per month

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## arci90

> UVB can be useful because with UVB, the frog can fix calcium in a better way (No necessary to add D3 in food).
> But, if UVB lamp is too strong, it can be dangerous because their skin is sensitive.
> If you add a UVB lamp, you have to be careful that it will not warm the frog.
> 
> Just use a normal lamp with UVA, and add calcium + D3 to food.
> 
> Calcium => 1 to 2 times a week
> Calcium + D3 => 2 times per month


mmm...seriously? cause i have only caclium+D3, i havent single calcium....and my frog has calcium+D3 or 2 or 3 times a week....

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## GRABibus

My reptile vet and "amphibians and reptiles" specialists that I know told me about it.
Too much vitamins for amphibians can damage their kidneys for example.

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## GRABibus

Kidney failure/metabolic bone disease/ vitamin D supplements in reptiles and amphibians (lizard, snake, turtle, tortoise, frog, salamander)

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## arci90

i read that diseaes are fault of phosphorum, but in my calcium+D3 there isnt...

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## GRABibus

Do what you want  :Smile:

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## arci90

hi guys  :Wink:  i was scared about take my frog in my hands...but 3 days ago i started try this :Wink:  and i liked it  :Big Grin:  :Big Grin:  my frog is so sweet and nice  :Big Grin:  :Big Grin: 

but i want to make a question...our frogs like it too? or we have to take them ONLY IF need?

cause i saw a thing...the frog was usual to defecate in water....always in water...but, after the day i took him in my hands, he started to defecate also in coco substrate...

its a coincidence? or maybe i stressed my frog?

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## arci90

> hi guys  i was scared about take my frog in my hands...but 3 days ago i started try this and i liked it  my frog is so sweet and nice 
> 
> but i want to make a question...our frogs like it too? or we have to take them ONLY IF need?
> 
> cause i saw a thing...the frog was usual to defecate in water....always in water...but, after the day i took him in my hands, he started to defecate also in coco substrate...
> 
> its a coincidence? or maybe i stressed my frog?


Please help  :Frown:

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## Sublime

Water helps them defecate, but they will also poop in the dirt if they choose to.  There's nothing wrong with a frog pooping on dirt; the water is just easier to clean because then you can change the water and put it back in.

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## Sublime

Don't use a UVB lamp unless you're growing live plants in your terrarium.  A lot easier to supplement calcium + d3 in their diet and will leave your frog safer in the long run because not worrying about too much UVB exposure.  Get Repashy SuperCal LoD (calcium and with small amounts of d3) and Repashy SuperVite (multivitamin).  Very good product, plus it would be very hard to overdose your frog because of the micro-fine powder.  I use Repashy SuperCal 2 times a week and SuperVite once a week.  Try it out, guarantee you'll stick with it.

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## arci90

Thank you. Another question about living plants: Hedera is dangerous for the frog? maybe he can eat a leaf while hunting a cricket. Someone has experienced something similar?

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## Sublime

> Thank you. Another question about living plants: Hedera is dangerous for the frog? maybe he can eat a leaf while hunting a cricket. Someone has experienced something similar?


I have no experience with what live plants are safe for frogs, hopefully someone else can jump into this thread and help you out.  Go into the vivarium sub forum to see if anyone is discussing live plants that are safe.  Or you can do a quick Google tag search in the following format: "What live plants are safe frogforum".

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## GRABibus

Hedera is toxic.
Hope it will be ok for your frog.

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## arci90

hi guys, im really scared for a thing: yesterday, in my frog feces i saw 2 small white things, like small stones...but when i try to touch these small things, they are really flabby...

my frog doesnt have strange behavior, so i dont know...

what can that be?

ps: my frog just ate croackroaches

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> hi guys, im really scared for a thing: yesterday, in my frog feces i saw 2 small white things, like small stones...but when i try to touch these small things, they are really flabby...
> 
> my frog doesnt have strange behavior, so i dont know...
> 
> what can that be?
> 
> ps: my frog just ate croackroaches


If you are feeding your frog worms like Night Crawlers, sometimes there will be one that doesn't digest all the way and its skin or body will remain in your frogs excrement undigested and appear blobby, Also sometimes their will be mucus around some objects that have been accidentally ingested while hunting and eating. If your frog appears to have normal behavior and the feces were not runny your frog should be fine. Also be sure to look for parasitic worms in your frogs feces. They are not very hard to spot when you break apart the feces. It is always a good idea to examine the frogs feces after every bowel movement to look for parasites and anything out of the ordinary.

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## arci90

really nice answer  :Wink:  anyway my frog feces now are normal, and that one was an accidentally episode  :Wink:  ihope well  :Wink: 

i have another question: can i feed my frog with dendrobaena veneta worms? or they are toxic?

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> really nice answer  anyway my frog feces now are normal, and that one was an accidentally episode  ihope well 
> 
> i have another question: can i feed my frog with dendrobaena veneta worms? or they are toxic?


I don't know what those are. Go to the feeder section of the forum and ask there.

http://www.frogforum.net/food-feeder...culturing-etc/

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## arci90

hi guys!  :Wink:  my pixie at the moment is 8 months old...today i gave a mouse to my frog: my frog, before attacking, swell and deflate is body...maybe frogs prepare their stomach if they see a large prey?

another question: my frog took the mouse, killed him and started to eat...the mouse was quite entirely eaten, but at the end my frog spitted the mouse and didnt eat him  :Frown:  is this normal? i have to leave the dead mouse in terrarium or i have to get off?

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> hi guys!  my pixie at the moment is 8 months old...today i gave a mouse to my frog: my frog, before attacking, swell and deflate is body...maybe frogs prepare their stomach if they see a large prey?
> 
> another question: my frog took the mouse, killed him and started to eat...the mouse was quite entirely eaten, but at the end my frog spitted the mouse and didnt eat him  is this normal? i have to leave the dead mouse in terrarium or i have to get off?


Sometimes they will spit the mouse out if it is to big for the frog. Was it an adult mouse or Pinky? You must remove the dead mouse or it will attract unwanted bacteria and insects. More than likely you'll have to throw it away unless you can wiggle it with tongs to get the frogs attention to try and it it again, but if its too large he may not appear interested.

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## arci90

mouse was sub-adult i think, but i gave another one like this 2 weeks ago...and my frog ate easily...

can u tell me something about first question?

ps: i removed the mouse, when i can try with another one?

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## arci90

up up please

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> mouse was sub-adult i think, but i gave another one like this 2 weeks ago...and my frog ate easily...
> 
> can u tell me something about first question?
> 
> ps: i removed the mouse, when i can try with another one?


Puffing up with air is a defence mechanism. They do this when they feel threatened. He was preparing to attack the mouse.

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## GRABibus

> up up please


How patient you are...
You are italian, no doubt lol

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## arci90

french always nice people...

btw, i have a question: in this period, im trying to reproduce cockroaches, so i dont give them to the frog...

can i feed my frog with mice until my roaches breeding is good? i give 1 mouse once a week...and my frog is 8 months old...

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## GRABibus

> french always nice people...


gna gna gna  :Smile: 
Scherzavo lol

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> french always nice people...
> 
> btw, i have a question: in this period, im trying to reproduce cockroaches, so i dont give them to the frog...
> 
> can i feed my frog with mice until my roaches breeding is good? i give 1 mouse once a week...and my frog is 8 months old...


You must be careful not to overload the frog's system with fat and protein or its eyes will begin to become cloudy. I would only give him a mouse every 3 weeks to a month and just use crickets and Night Crawlers between feeding mice.

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## arci90

so a mouse a week is too much? my frog in a week eat only 1 mouse..its overfeed (i mean about fat and protein)?

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## Bruce

Only feed mice about every other month, every month at the most.

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## arci90

thank you guys for answers  :Wink: 

i have another question: when a pixie is sexually adult? i mean...my pixie is 8 months old...the years to be in reproductive-age?

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## arci90

these are some photos of my frog...can u help me to sex my pixie? my frog is 8 months old, and i heard some calls during this time...

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## Bruce

Do you know the length?

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## arci90

i just measure my frog...11-12 cm lenght and 9,5-10cm width; the measures are taken in the position of first photo...

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## Bruce

I'm gunna go ahead and say female then.  My 2 month old confirmed male is that big already, and his head is much broader as well.  The sound you heard was probably her grunting, my female does that sometimes too, and she's 4  :Smile: 
Congrats!  If you ask me, females have their perks over males.  Less food, less poop, and not as aggressive in my experience.

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## arci90

> I'm gunna go ahead and say female then.  My 2 month old confirmed male is that big already, and his head is much broader as well.  The sound you heard was probably her grunting, my female does that sometimes too, and she's 4 
> Congrats!  If you ask me, females have their perks over males.  Less food, less poop, and not as aggressive in my experience.


ok...so i have to find a male  :Wink:  i want the double  :Big Grin:

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## arci90

Hi guys, now i have a double of african bullfrog...but probably i'll have to change terrarium  :Wink:  

How many liters/gallons i need for an adult double (M+F) of african bullfrogs?

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## GRABibus

It's a female.
Concerning mouse, I give one mouse per month maximum to my female.
Otherwise, I feed her (She's one year old) 1 to 2 times per week with Dubia roaches, adult locusts, black crickets and nightcrawlers (Even if she doesn't like them anymore).

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## GRABibus

> Hi guys, now i have a double of african bullfrog...but probably i'll have to change terrarium  
> 
> How many liters/gallons i need for an adult double (M+F) of african bullfrogs?


With M+F, they must have the same age and must be installed to be sure they have places to hide and enough place.

I should take a terrarium of 1m long and 50cm large.

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## arci90

hi guys! i have a question....my female bullfrog, about 1year old isnt eating for a month  :Frown: 

the frog is apparently healthy, she walk, she goes into water, she jumps...maybe she's fasting?

every time i try to give her a mouse, she runs away, not interested...

can u help me?

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> hi guys! i have a question....my female bullfrog, about 1year old isnt eating for a month 
> 
> the frog is apparently healthy, she walk, she goes into water, she jumps...maybe she's fasting?
> 
> every time i try to give her a mouse, she runs away, not interested...
> 
> can u help me?


Is she losing weight?

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## arci90

> Is she losing weight?


just a bit...not too much...

i have to be honest...before this fasting time, i was a bit exceeding with food, sometimes i forced her to eat...so she was too fat, not in her good weight...she had difficulty to move and jump good...

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## Bruce

What was her staple diet?

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## arci90

Unfortunately, the female frog is dead I found floating belly up in the tank all swollen, with legs straight

I do not understand why ... everything seems ok, had eaten a few days before, went to dig and swim .... bho


a male 1 year old should eat every day? or can eat only one time a week?

when the frog is quite large, with what the fed? the crickets are a bit 'small I think ...

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## arci90

guys? up

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## habeeb

lots of caresheets say you can feed them once a week and they will be fine...just be sure to feed it all it will eat in 15 mins....if it was my frog i would feed it twice a week....i feed my 6 month old male about every other day...and as for what to feed? i feed him dubia roaches...one male roach is like eating 3-5 large crickets so he just pounds on some of them till he stops eating...but u can try roaches or nightcrawlers...some pixies have problems eating nightcrawlers though...they try to lick them up and they are too slimmy that their tongue doesnt stick to the nightcrawler..hope that helps

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## Colleen/Jerrod

> guys? up


You should be able to feed him 3 to 4 times a week, but this depends on what you are offering him as a staple diet.

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## b24082

I hate to say it, but it seems your female over ate to death. I've read this happening to a few other people.

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## arci90

my male 13 months old now eat only a small mouse (of course not a pinkie) a week...is it good?

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## SCF

> my male 13 months old now eat only a small mouse (of course not a pinkie) a week...is it good?


No, you should vary its diet. One mouse a month - two months would be more ideal. A staple of earthworms, roaches, silkworms, would be a lot better. You can use crickets, hornworms, etc to mix it up as well.

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## arci90

> No, you should vary its diet. One mouse a month - two months would be more ideal. A staple of earthworms, roaches, silkworms, would be a lot better. You can use crickets, hornworms, etc to mix it up as well.


i know i should vary its diet...but i cant  :Frown: 

i try with dubia roaches but they dig in earth and then my frog cant see them  :Frown: 

i know mice can cause overweight, but if mice are not so huge? i think 4 small mice a month is better than 2 adult mice....

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## SCF

> i know i should vary its diet...but i cant 
> 
> i try with dubia roaches but they dig in earth and then my frog cant see them 
> 
> i know mice can cause overweight, but if mice are not so huge? i think 4 small mice a month is better than 2 adult mice....


I think you can..  :Wink: 

You should try a pair of tongs, hold the dubia with the tongs in front of your frog a couple inches in front of it. No more burrowing dubia.  :Wink: 

I don't think four small mice is better than two adults at all, it's worse.

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## Colleen/Jerrod

SCF has provided good advice.

You could also place you Pyxi in another container with nothing in it. Just mist it slightly so there is moisture in the container and place the roaches in with the Pyxi. They have nowhere to hide and will be ripe for the picking this way too. Make sure that the container you place the frog in is large enough for decent movement, is vented so the frog can breath, and make sure the frog cannot escape the container by jumping out.

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## arci90

> I don't think four small mice is better than two adults at all, it's worse.


i mean...is better feed my frog with 2 adult mice a month or with 4 sub-adult mice a month?

i think 4 is better coz i can feed it every 7 days and not every 15...

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## SCF

> i mean...is better feed my frog with 2 adult mice a month or with 4 sub-adult mice a month?
> 
> i think 4 is better coz i can feed it every 7 days and not every 15...


Heh, what part about varying their diet do you not understand? I will advise (for my last time) do not feed 2 adult mice a month. Do not feed 4 baby mice a month. Does anyone else want to chime in here?

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## DFM

From what I've read (and i've done a fair bit of reading on this species recently) a rodent heavy diet (pinky or not) is unhealthy for them

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## arci90

> Heh, what part about varying their diet do you not understand? I will advise (for my last time) do not feed 2 adult mice a month. Do not feed 4 baby mice a month. Does anyone else want to chime in here?





> From what I've read (and i've done a fair bit of reading on this species recently) a rodent heavy diet (pinky or not) is unhealthy for them


i have understood that a vary diet is better...but i have these problems:

- crickets: too small for my frog
- dubia: maybe i can try with dubia, but i will be crazy  :Frown: 
- hoppers: i cant hold them in my house coz they fly and my mother blame me  :Big Grin: 
- worms: my frog doesnt like worms it seems

can i try with zophobas morio? is it good as food for my frog? i saw he like these "worms"

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## bullfrog1986

try morio worms my frog likes them alot, try wax worms they dont borrow, try large crickets rather then small.. and if like me you must sit there and feed him by hand then you must spend time doing this.

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## DFM

Sounds like you just need ALOT of crickets

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## DeeDub

Arci, bienvenudo.  Don't feed mice. Dubia with tongs/forceps.

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## arci90

hi, im projecting my new aqua-terrarium, its for my 2 years male...measures will be 90x45x45  :Wink: 

i want to make this really realistic, so i have a question:

- can i put some backdrop in the aqua part? gravel? sand? shingles? can u give me an help? can my frog risk choking?

- is necessary an aqua-filter? or i just need a pump to move a bit the water?

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## arci90

> hi, im projecting my new aqua-terrarium, its for my 2 years male...measures will be 90x45x45 
> 
> i want to make this really realistic, so i have a question:
> 
> - can i put some backdrop in the aqua part? gravel? sand? shingles? can u give me an help? can my frog risk choking?
> 
> - is necessary an aqua-filter? or i just need a pump to move a bit the water?


up guys! help please  :Frown:

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## Glenn

> hi, im projecting my new aqua-terrarium, its for my 2 years male...measures will be 90x45x45 
> 
> i want to make this really realistic, so i have a question:
> 
> - can i put some backdrop in the aqua part? gravel? sand? shingles? can u give me an help? can my frog risk choking?
> 
> - is necessary an aqua-filter? or i just need a pump to move a bit the water?


A backdrop outside is fine. I'm thinking you mean substrate for the water part? I would advise against it. First, it may ingest some of it during enthusiastic feeding, and second, it will soon become very dirty, and require constant vacuuming.

Im assuming this tank will have a large aquatic part if you're considering filters. Unless you plan on doing water changes every day (or multiple times per day), yeah you need a filter. A strong filter, preferably a canister filter rated for many times the volume of water you are filtering, and that has fully cycled with your existing tank or another tank with a big bioload. The reason is that the pyxie will create a LOT of ammonia (try and get a water test kit for this, the liquid kind) from their waste AND from other things like substrate and bits of shed skin decaying in the water. Having a cycled filter will give you a head start on controlling that ammonia, though you will need to tweak as needed. Don't be fooled by seemingly clean water. Sometimes clean looking water is ammonia ridden and that can't be good for the frog.

As an example, I have about 12 gallons of water for mine being filtered by a canister filter rated for 70 gallons. I had previously had this filter cycled with a 55 gallon, moderately-heavily stocked fish tank, and I still had problems with high ammonia when I moved it to the frog's. It has more or less settled down now, but I suspect I'll always have to keep a much closer eye on ammonia than your typical fish tank water, as the frog isn't always in the water and providing constant ammonia for beneficial bacteria, which is sure to affect their populations. I've since found a use for ammonia removing filter inserts, as the amount of waste the frog creates ensures that the bacteria still survive even with the use of the inserts! That's a lot of waste.

Uh reading this now, it seems really confusing, so here's the short version:

Unless you want to do daily water changes, you need a strong filter, but be sure to still keep an eye on your water parameters and be ready to do water changes.

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## arci90

> A backdrop outside is fine. I'm thinking you mean substrate for the water part? I would advise against it. First, it may ingest some of it during enthusiastic feeding, and second, it will soon become very dirty, and require constant vacuuming.
> 
> Im assuming this tank will have a large aquatic part if you're considering filters. Unless you plan on doing water changes every day (or multiple times per day), yeah you need a filter. A strong filter, preferably a canister filter rated for many times the volume of water you are filtering, and that has fully cycled with your existing tank or another tank with a big bioload. The reason is that the pyxie will create a LOT of ammonia (try and get a water test kit for this, the liquid kind) from their waste AND from other things like substrate and bits of shed skin decaying in the water. Having a cycled filter will give you a head start on controlling that ammonia, though you will need to tweak as needed. Don't be fooled by seemingly clean water. Sometimes clean looking water is ammonia ridden and that can't be good for the frog.
> 
> As an example, I have about 12 gallons of water for mine being filtered by a canister filter rated for 70 gallons. I had previously had this filter cycled with a 55 gallon, moderately-heavily stocked fish tank, and I still had problems with high ammonia when I moved it to the frog's. It has more or less settled down now, but I suspect I'll always have to keep a much closer eye on ammonia than your typical fish tank water, as the frog isn't always in the water and providing constant ammonia for beneficial bacteria, which is sure to affect their populations. I've since found a use for ammonia removing filter inserts, as the amount of waste the frog creates ensures that the bacteria still survive even with the use of the inserts! That's a lot of waste.
> 
> Uh reading this now, it seems really confusing, so here's the short version:
> 
> Unless you want to do daily water changes, you need a strong filter, but be sure to still keep an eye on your water parameters and be ready to do water changes.


really thank you for the huge answer  :Wink:  nice

i know really good all the chimical problems you mentioned...i have a 350 litres tank with piranhas  :Wink:  i know how a tank works...

infact i want to put a good filter with bioballs, siporax and other biological substrat to clean the water...

of course ill remove (if i see) all big frog's ****s  :Wink:  and ill change water at least twice a week...

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## arci90

> really thank you for the huge answer  nice
> 
> i know really good all the chimical problems you mentioned...i have a 350 litres tank with piranhas  i know how a tank works...
> 
> infact i want to put a good filter with bioballs, siporax and other biological substrat to clean the water...
> 
> of course ill remove (if i see) all big frog's ****s  and ill change water at least twice a week...


so? its ok?

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## Glenn

Sounds good to me.
It's what I'm doing and it's working well.

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## arci90

this is the start of my terrarium....the right part will be with earth, the left one will contain the water...work in progress  :Wink:

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