# Frogs & Toads > Aquatic Clawed Frogs >  Are African Dwarf Frogs right for me?

## d20nerd

I am new here and I have come to learn.  My experience with pets is almost solely with dogs and birds.  I have a weenie dog named Chloe and 2 zebra finches named Aristotle and Socrates.  I decided to get an aquarium a little over the year ago and I started with a betta fish who I named Freud.  Unfortunately, Freud passed away a few days ago.  I had him for a little over a year so he lived a long happy life for a betta.  He was healthy and happy in a 3 gallon filtered tank heated to a cozy 80 degrees.  I am cleaning out the tank and redecorating it.  I plan to make it into a home for a new critter or two.  I have done lots of research online the past two days and if I am understanding correctly, my 3 gallon tank could potentially be a comfy home for 2 African Dwarf Frogs.  

The tank does have a hood cover with a light inside.  It's a filtered tank.  The filter is very quiet and the intake valve is covered so the frog would not be able to get inside it.  My betta had very long fins and had no trouble swimming around (their fins don't tolerate strong currents) and his fins never got caught in the intake.  I don't think the frogs would be disturbed by the filtration.  I've heard vibration and currents can be disruptive for them.  It's not a very deep tank and I'm used to leaving an inch or two of space between the water and lid because bettas also swim to the surface to breathe air.  When I had my betta, I cleaned out the tank and did a partial water change about once a month.  Would this process likely be the same with a couple of ADFs?  

What about adding mystery snail?  With the betta, I had slight algae issues between tank cleanings and I know that with the frogs, I'd have to leave the light on longer during the day than I did with the betta (they are quite cozy in the dark).  I thought perhaps if I got a snail too, it would help keep any algae in check.  Would that be okay, or would it be overcrowded with potentially too much waste?  If anybody has knowledge or experience with mystery snails, I'd appreciate enlightenment on those as well.  From what I've read, they are compatible with ADFs.

How often do the frogs need to be fed?  Some sources I've come across say feed them once or twice a day, other sources say to feed them every other day.  I'd just like to know any information, tips, or whatever anyone can teach me.  I thought it would be helpful to talk to people with experience in owning these critters.  I appreciate any help. 

I like to research any pet before I get it.  I want my pets to have the best home possible.  I don't have (or want) children, so my pets are like my children.  I want to make sure I can provide a good home for any critter I bring into the house.  If the frogs aren't right for me, I can always get another betta instead.  I just thought it would be interesting to try something new.  And I've always liked frogs.

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## Autumn

Here is a reliable article that should answer most of your questions above. I am not an expert in keeping African Dwarf frogs, but had a friend who owned one and followed the guidelines below. Hope this helpsJ!


“These cute little fully aquatic frogs originally come from the rivers and streams of central Africa in the wild. Since they are fully aquatic they make great pets for the aquarium enthusiast as well as those who like keeping Amphibians.
Their color can range from a light olive green to a darker brownish green. With proper care they have been known to reach a snout to vent length of 2.5 inches (6.35cm) and live for 5+ years. 
*Purchasing an African Dwarf Frog*
Of course to have a long happy healthy relationship with your ADF it is important to start out by selecting a healthy specimen to begin with. When choosing your frog you should look for one that has clear eyes, smooth skin, swims actively, stays around the bottom of the aquarium, hides from view and when it is being caught swim away from the net.
Any ADF that is floating around the top does not attempt to hide when disturbed, that just sits there when being caught or has cloudy eyes is probably sick and may not last long no matter how good the care you give it is. 
*Housing*
While African Dwarf Frogs can be kept in small aquariums you should have at least a 10 gallon (37.85 liter) aquarium. There are a number of reasons for not using an aquarium of less than 10 gallons (37.85 liters) for African Dwarf Frogs.
1. African Dwarf Frogs are social amphibians and do best in groups of three or more. Following the one inch of aquatic animal at the size they can potentially achieve per gallon of water rule which is the standard for fresh water aquarium inhabitants. In order to keep three frogs you would need at least 7.5 gallons (28.39 liters) of water. That is before taking out space for plants or decorations which can easily eat up the remaining area of a 10 gallons (37.85 liter) aquarium.
2. African Dwarf Frogs require a stable warm environment 72 - 82F (22.22 - 27.78C) and with smaller aquariums room temperature fluctuations will greatly influence the water temperature in the aquarium causing them to become too cold or too hot. This problem is lessened proportionately as you increase the size of the aquarium, For example; a 3 gallon aquarium might take 1 hour for the temperatures to rise to 95F if the surrounding room temperature rises to 95F but a ten gallon might take 3 hours.
3. Another reason for using at least a 10 gallon (37.85 liter) container is maintaining proper water quality. ADFs of course must be fed which means not only the production of waste but also a buildup of uneaten food. These waste products quickly begin to rot and release ammonia into the water and ammonia is not only toxic to the frog but it also can cause any number of health problems that will permanently affect the frog if it survives them. Ammonia also breaks down and produces another toxin, nitrite, which eventually will become nitrate. In order to prevent the buildup of these toxins in the aquarium the aquarium must be have an adequate filtration system and should be properly cycled. Aquariums of less than three gallons cannot be properly cycled.
4. As mentioned above an appropriate environment must be properly cycle. This cannot be done with smaller bodies of water. Cycling is just a process whereby we establish the proper bacterial agents in the aquarium environment to break down the above mentioned toxins more quickly so they do not harm the inhabitants. *This should be done well in advance of purchasing your African Dwarf Frogs.*
To cycle an aquarium it should be set up, complete with water, substrate, filter and heater, well in advance of the purchase of the ADFs. To monitor the cycling process in an aquarium you will need a few test kits that every aquarist should have anyway. These test kits should be one for ammonia, one for nitrites and one for nitrates. To begin the cycling process food should be added to the functioning aquarium just as though it contained the inhabitants already. Each week you will need to do a 10 – 20% water change, during this time you should be monitoring the ammonia and nitrite levels. At some point you will notice that the ammonia and nitrites will each in turn top out and start dropping. The acceptable amount of ammonia and nitrites in your aquarium is 0 ppm (parts per million) and you should have 30 ppm or less nitrates. The nitrate reading is sign that it is safe to add fish and that cycling has finished. Though you can speed up this process by using objects or gravel from a long established aquarium, the bacteria you are trying to encourage live on the surfaces of aquarium objects, you will still need to allow your new aquarium to complete the cycle and monitor the toxins.
The cycling period is also a good time to work with the controls of your heater to establish a constant regulated temperature.
5. African Dwarf Frogs are naturally from an environment where there is lots of plant life for them to live and hide in thus a planted aquarium with real or simulated plants is home. In an aquarium of 10 gallons (37.85 liters) or better you can plant live plants or place silk plants so that your ADFs have both swimming area and aquatic vegetation to hide in when they want.
A well fitting Aquarium cover is recommended to prevent disastrous escapes.
*Lighting*
Though African Dwarf Frogs are primarily nocturnal you should provide about 12 hours of light each day to establish a summer day night cycle Since these frogs can get the vitamin D3 required for calcium absorption from the foods they eat you do not need to provide UVB lighting. Nor should you provide lighting that is excessively bright as this will cause the frogs to go into hiding and could damage their eye sight.
Since you also want to have as much control as possible over the heating of the aquarium it is suggested that you use a low wattage florescent light
*Heating* 
African Dwarf Frogs require a stable warm environment of 72 - 82F (22.22 - 27.78C) unless you keep your house at a constant 77F (25C) it is recommended that you purchase an aquarium heater and a thermometer with which you can regulate and monitor your water temperature daily.
*Water Quality*
Just as the proper housing lighting and heating is important successfully keeping healthy happy African Dwarf frogs maintaining the quality of the water they live in is equally as important if not more so. 
To make these frogs comfortable in their home you need to keep the water pH between 7 and 7.8 though it has been my experience that they do best with a pH range of 7.4 – 7.8
To ensure the highest quality water it is recommended that you do a 10-20% water change every week using an aquarium vacuum siphon to remove any waste from the gravel substrate. 
*Food & Feeding*
ADFs are by nature bottom feeders which mean they look for their food on or around the bottom of their watery environment. They will do quite well on live or thawed frozen blood worms and/or brine shrimp, tubiflex worms and chopped earth worms though they will eat some sinking fish foods as well but these are not really in the frog’s best interest. 
Feed your frogs until their bellies start to bulge a little.
Young African Dwarf Frogs should be fed at least once per day but many people report excellent results with a feeding program for babies that includes feeding twice a day.
Adults should be fed once every other day.
It is not uncommon for newly purchased ADFs to go through a period where they seemingly will not eat or seem to not be able to locate their food. If you experience this it may be necessary to hand feed them with a pair of forceps or blunt nosed tweezers. To do this simply pick up a blood worm with your instrument and gently move it around it in front of the frog. Once it starts taking the blood worms from you in this manner you can start encouraging it to hunt for its food by gradually increasing the distance from the frog you hold the bloodworms. Eventually you will be able to just drop the prey into the aquarium and the frogs will hunt for them on their own.
*Sexing*
ADFs reach sexual maturity at about nine months of age.
Male African Dwarf Frogs are usually smaller and less bulky that females. When they reach maturity they develop sub dermal glands behind each of their front legs. These glands look like little pinkish pimples. Of course as with most frogs and toads the male are also the ones that sing/hum/croak to attract a mate.
The females tend to be a bit larger and bulkier with a slightly longer tail protrusion than the males. A mature female with eggs may appear to be pear shaped.
*Compatible Fish*
I personally do NOT recommend keeping African Dwarf Frogs with fish. This is a hazardous practice at best. Any fish is likely to nibble on small frogs which could result in an injury, infection and death.
If you feel you must keep fish with your ADFs, any fish you choose to place in the same environment with your ADFs must be chosen not only for their acceptance of the same water conditions (Temp 72 - 82F (22.22 - 27.78C) pH 7.4 – 7. but also for their docile nature.
Some fish that would be reasonably docile and whose water requirements at least overlap those of the ADF are as follows;
Neon Tetras – Temps 68ºF to 78ºF (20-25°C) / pH 5.5 to 7.5 / Max length 1.5 inches (4cm)
Rosy Barb – Temps 64° to 79°F (18-26°C) / pH 6.5 to 7.5 / Max length 4 inches (10 cm)
Guppies – Temps 64ºF to 84ºF (18-29°C) / pH 7.0 to 8.5 / Max length 2.5" (6cm)
Platys – Temps 68-79°F (20-26°C) / pH 7.0 to 8.3 / Max length 2" (5cm)
Black Mollies – Temps 70ºF to 79ºF (21-26°C) / pH 7.0 to 8.5 / Max length 2" (15cm)
Half Beaks – Temps 68ºF to 82ºF (20-28C) / pH 7.0 to 8.0 / Max length 2¾ in (7 cm)
*Important* When selecting fish to keep with your ADFs you must remember the rule for the maximum number of fish in a fresh water aquarium is 1 inch of fish at the size they will be when they reach maximum growth per gallon of water. 
Each ADF, whose maximum length potential is 2.5 inches (6.35cm), counts for 2.5 gallons of water."

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## Jen

I am curious - are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle - you understand the importance of a cycled filter and what a cycled filter truly means?

How did you do your water changes for your betta?  The reason I am asking, and forgive me for saying this - but you said you had him for a little over a year and he lived a "long and happy life" - - bettas should average 5-7 years.  

They often have shortened lifespans due to environmental (tank) or diet problems.   ADF are extremely sensitive to water conditions and  having knowledge of the nitrogen cycle and a cycled tank come in handy when keeping these little guys alive.  


A 3 gallon tank is only suitable for ONE ADF - -  5 gallons is the recommended minimum to keep two happy and healthy.  

If I were you, and I am saying this because you genuinely seem to care and I think you would see that I am not trying to be rude in any way, but pet stores are notorious for giving advice that makes a quick sale - AKA bad advice to get you to purchase quickly before learning the proper keeping methods.  Before buying ADF, I would make sure you had a firm understanding of how ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate work and the importance of maintaining there levels. 

it is not a hard process to learn once you know what you have to learn - but developing a proper cycled filter tanks time and can be destroyed extremely quickly.

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## d20nerd

I thought I read they live about 2 years...but I guess it just depends on a lot of things.  He seemed really healthy and was very active.  Last week, he got somewhat sluggish and then died.  It was quick.  I didn't even really know anything was wrong.  I was also gone at the time and my mom was caring for the fish, but she had done this many times before.  Maybe something did go wrong with the water, I don't know.  I did cycle the tank in the beginning and I would do about a 25% water change and rinse the substrate and ornaments.  I always conditioned and de-chlorinated the water.  I was doing everything right to the best of my knowledge.  But I'm always willing to learn.  I really want to get a larger tank, but I just can't do it right now.  I think for now, I'll re-start this tank, get a good testing kit, and see how it goes.

So are ADFs okay being kept by themselves?  Or do they need company?  Would I be better off just getting another betta or something else that likes to be solitary?

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## d20nerd

I did have testing strips, but I've since learned they are less reliable than liquid kits.  Any suggestions on a good kit?

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## mommyof4froglovers

Walmart has a liquid one for 18 dollars and I was told it was good for fish.

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## MartinTruckenbrodt

Hello,
for ADCFs (Hymenochirus) a daily temperature of 24°C should be maximum, 20 or 22°C is the minimum (e.g. at night). Higher temperatures are possible only for some hours per day e.g. in the summer.
pH level should not be higher than 7.0, 7.5 is the absolutley maximum, less then 7.0 always is better. Use Catappa leaves to make the water a little bit acid. Also the acid water will keep the frogs skin healthy.
Don't feed living red mosquito larvaes! This will work for several months. But one day your frogs will die immediately. Frozen red mosquitos larvaes not more than once per month or maximum once per week. Feed other frozen (and living) food together rarely with pellets. But don't use pellets with to small particles. These pellets only will polute the water, but the frogs are not able to eat them.

IMO 5 gallon is the minimum size for an ADCF tank. But in my experience here you can keep about 4 ADCFs easily.
Don't use a fast water current filter. Use a simple air filter like the billi filter: Billifilter . I prefer mat filters: Hamburger Mattenfilter . In tanks with this filtration you don't need weekly water changes of 25%. Commonly it is always good to change small amounts of water very frequently. Very frequently done large water changes for the frogs will cause problems with skinning.

In tanks with more than 15 gallons you can keep ADCFs together e.g. with small Aphyosemion species like Aphyosemion primigenium . But you shouldn't do it if you want to breed the frogs  :Wink: 

Put in a lot of plants. The frogs like to relaxe and to hang around near to the water surface. Don't fill the tank completely with water. Just let 5 or 10 cm free for the air the frogs need for breathing. So the air will not to be to hot.
Long and strong ligthening only is important for light loving plants. I have 3 Watt engery saving lamps on my tanks planted with Anubias and Java moss.

Bye Martin

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