# Frogs & Toads > Other Frogs & Toads >  M.nasuta help.

## frogged

I'm getting one female (or so it says) Nasuta pretty soon. I'm wondering if anyone can give me both crucial and basic advice about temps, enclosure size, feeding habits and stuff. I'm asking this because my supplier tells me there is no chance for it to get impacted even when fed on moss, which apparently is bulls***. So thanks! again, I'll need help from people like 1beataway, Kurt and John if they will. Medications and stuff like that will be helpful. Thanks!
*M.Nasuta can be found in the country I live in*

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## bshmerlie

Are you gettng a wild caught or captive bred>

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## Tony

I have been keeping mine in sterilite tubs, about 24x18" of floorspace. I used paper towel with a bit of leaf litter as the initial substrate during quarantine, and later switched to fine orchid bark with a thick layer of leaf litter and a live pothos plant. I keep them cool, 65-75 degrees (F) and feed crickets and roaches. 

I feel that these tubs are great for quarantine but too small for long-term use, I am planning to build permanent vivariums for them that are 6' x 2' x 2'. Females will eat males, so housing the sexes separately is advised outside of breeding attempts.

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## frogged

Let's just assume its a wild caught, the chances of me getting a captive bred are effectively zero. That's really good information there, so I should attempt to quarantine them. Did you try any medications on them? Also, how would you feed them (just toss everything in ETC)?

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## Tony

I would suggest pre-treating for chytrid, the disease is very widespread through southeast asia and _Megophrys_ are often "silent carriers" until stress weakens them enough to show symptoms. I have had great results from Steve Busch's Lamisil treatment.. If Lamisil is not available where you live you may have to look into other treatment methods.

For feeding I just drop the insects in and let the frogs catch them, they are fairly timid frogs and will actually shy away from attempts to hand or tong feed them.

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## Tony

I found a picture of the quarantine setup:

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## frogged

Thanks for the advice, that picture there really gave me a clear idea of how I should do it. Were I to attempt treating the nasuta with flagyl without any clear idea as to its medical condition, what would happen? Would that be okay? I am most certainly going to deworm it firstly, don't like the idea of this lovely frog turning skeletal.

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## Tony

> Thanks for the advice, that picture there really gave me a clear idea of how I should do it. Were I to attempt treating the nasuta with flagyl without any clear idea as to its medical condition, what would happen? Would that be okay? I am most certainly going to deworm it firstly, don't like the idea of this lovely frog turning skeletal.


I don't deworm my frogs unless they are showing symptoms of illness that can be tied to internal parasites. My philosophy is that it is best not to mess with nature unnecessarily, as more research is done we sometimes learn that organisms once considered to be parasites may actually be a benefit to the digestive process (i.e. pinworms in some reptiles). Our animals and their gut flora have evolved together over many thousands of years, and unless there is a clear sign of an imbalance harming the frog I think that intervening is riskier than leaving them alone.

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## frogged

That's an interesting piece of advice. What signs should I look out for in identifying illness in nasuta's? I realise for amphibians illness does the coup de grace quite quickly. In fact, many people suggest periodical deworming. Are there any case studies where this has been seen otherwise?

You have thus far generously provided me with these useful information:
Min Tank: 20 gal.
Temps: 65-75 F
Diet: Crickets and roaches (Please correct with any reference to their preference of fast and slowing moving prey items)
Appetite: (Please give a rough gauge on how many prey items they consume at one sitting and how often)
Mineral supplementation: (Suggestions as to what, which brands, how much and how often)
Quarantine tank design: Many Thanks to the nice picture you provided.
Permanent tank design: (Please give me ideas on how damp the substrate must be, and the ratio of water area:land area)
Possible ailments and notable experiences that go along with this species would be nice.

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## frogged

Just to add some extra stuff there, I'm wondering if you or any others ever had experience or are familiar with D.muelleri, those are another species of beautiful frogs that I would love to acquire. If yes, I will start another thread on this other species.

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## Tony

I have been lucky enough to not experience any health issues with my _nasuta_ outside of the male arriving with a chytrid infection, but I would expect signs of parasite overload to show through weight loss, runny feces, poor appetite, etc. like it does in most frogs. I don't have any particular studies to point toward, I was just sharing my thoughts based on my experience with imported frogs and discussions with other hobbyists. If you have a system that has worked well for you, or are medicating under the advice of a vet, then by all means stick with it. Something that works well for my frogs under my conditions may not work so well in a different setting.

I haven't noticed any real preference in their feeding, I use four roach species ranging from very fast (_B. lateralis_) to slow (_B. dubia_)and they take all of the roaches and crickets without discrimination. I haven't really tracked how much they eat, I just feed two or three times weekly and let them eat what they want. I supplement with a light dusting of Repashy Calcium Plus at every feeding.

As for the permanent tank design I have not yet decided exactly how I will build it, but I do plan to include a stream since they lay their eggs near or over running water. I keep the substrate slightly moist and allow the layer of leaf litter to stay rather dry, I have been told by a more experienced keeper that they are prone to develop sores and bacterial infections if kept on an excessively wet substrate.

I don't have any experience with _D. muelleri_, hopefully if you start a thread on them someone will jump in and help.

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frogged

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## michael

I had kept M. nasuta about 10 years ago and was able to reproduce them while working at the San Antonio Zoo. I have attached a pdf on a taxon management account (TMA) concerning this species that I put together for the AZA (zoo association). It's pretty indepth -hope it helps,

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frogged

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## frogged

It seems that the Nasuta I'm about to get is actually eating, which comes to me as a big surprise. I would count myself as extremely lucky. However I am running along with a few medical concerns here. Anyone knows how to administer lamisil in the form of a cream? I figured it would require dissolving, but I'm unsure of the proportions. Secondly, does anyone know common products for medically treating fish that has either flagyl or some sort of frog safe antibiotic? 
On the plus side, I have found panacur available.

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## Tony

Steve's chytrid treatment is meant for use with the liquid spray form of lamisil, not the cream. If I remember correctly some of the ingredients in the cream can be harmful to frogs.

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## frogged

I've just read that thread several time and Steve does indeed state or imply that the cream should not be used, however, he doesn't state why. Can you find any citations on this, or perhaps a solution in which I can use the cream, through proportionate dissolving and all that.

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## Kurt

I just want to point out the Elaine (1beataway) knows more about this species than I do.

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## frogged

Alright update here. Nasuta is in, pretty silent and not moving much. I'll post an picture on its quarantine enclosure. One question, could it be that the nasuta have parasites based on the fact that it has stringy faeces which are somewhat coffee in colour?

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## eloyhouse

Hello I´m new here, and I´m about to get a pair of his frogs, do you have any othre advice on the proper care of this species?? or any  updates of how your frogs is doing??

pd, do you have more pics of the terrarium and the frogs pleas??

thanks in advance

greetings

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## frogged

I'm sorry I have not been updating. So... he's doing fine. It's a he because it rained and he "croaked", which sounded more like a beep. 
Firstly, I would follow carefully the advice stated above on this topic here, as they do help very effectively and appropriately. Mine is very active at night, and intolerant to your presence when you arrive; I have noticed such behavior upon my first time feeding it. Be prepared and try to avoid freaking the nasuta out by removing only part of the substrate at one time, during cleaning. They are indeed nervous wrecks without leaf litter. I have been removing all infected leaves in the process. 
Be patient while feeding the nasuta, they are lunge ambush predators and want to wait for their prey to be in range before striking decisively. Stick to leaf litter, particulate matter and moss is not a good idea. Keep the bottom of the substrate moist, and the surface just slightly. Oh yes, do feed prey items that produce enough movement. 
Lastly, I would like to add that this has been a simple experience for me due to the incredible lack of parasites and thereof. It is important that you ensure it does not get bacterial infections or parasites, and treat accordingly and quickly. Take my advice with a pinch of salt and good luck!

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## frogged

Will post pictures this weekend. Be warned, I have absolutely no talent nor equipment for good quality pictures.

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## 1beataway

I don't know how I missed this thread. I'm so sorry. But I'm glad your frog is doing well! 

By the way, my water bowl ended up getting a leak, but since I kept the dish in the back, I did not notice until the soil was soaked. But I found out through this that the leaf frog has another, much cooler croak. He had never done it before, until the soil was so wet. I know naturally they live near riverbeds. And I would say to have a tank that is taller. The tank I had mine in was a foot tall, and when it stormed, he would jump straight up and hit the top of the tank.

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## michael

I found that at least a 16 inch cage ceiling is necessary when keeping this species, otherwise they are prone to get abbrasions due to their jumping ability.

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